Yashica Mat 124G - Buying Tips

[jimnorwood]

So I managed to load a roll of Porta 400 into the camera. As I thought the film covers the groove which was causing the click.

 

Took the first photo and.........the winding lever jammed. I was careful not to force the winder and toggled the self timer switch

between M and X. I was able to release the shutter again and then wind on the film. None of the further exposures jammed

and the film is now finished. Any ideas what might have been the problem with that first shot ?

 

I was surprised that winding from one frame to the next only took half a turn of the winder and half a turn back to place the

winder in the holder.

 

So now I have to find somewhere in Germany where I can have this film devloped.

[jimnorwood]

So I managed to load a roll of Porta 400 into the camera. As I thought the film covers the groove which was causing the click.

 

Took the first photo and.........the winding lever jammed. I was careful not to force the winder and toggled the self timer switch

between M and X. I was able to release the shutter again and then wind on the film. None of the further exposures jammed

and the film is now finished. Any ideas what might have been the problem with that first shot ?

 

I was surprised that winding from one frame to the next only took half a turn of the winder and half a turn back to place the

winder in the holder.

 

So now I have to find somewhere in Germany where I can have this film devloped.

Second film exactly the same. First shot winder jammed. Double exposure. Rest of film ok. Really odd.

[jpcalma]

I just recently purchased one and was claimed to be CLA’d and all that good stuff. Unfortunately this was not true. After shooting a roll through it and developed my film, my photos were hazy because the lens was really dirty.

 

You can look at the shooting lens from the back and see if it is clear or not. As you can see my photo compared to others shot with the same camera is far from decent.

 

[jimnorwood]

Thanks for all the feedback here. I wanted to post an update. I am on my third roll of film. Loading the third roll I remembered for the first shot to wind forward until shot 1 was displayed in the frame counter and then wind back until the winder stopped. Just as recommended in the instructions. Now I have no longer have a problem to wind on after taking the first shot.

 

I have had the first two rolls developed and all shots came out fine. There was no problem with the film transport. I am very happy with the results.

 

http://i67.tinypic.com/110wtgn.jpg

[jimnorwood]

I just recently purchased one and was claimed to be CLA’d and all that good stuff. Unfortunately this was not true. After shooting a roll through it and developed my film, my photos were hazy because the lens was really dirty.

 

You can look at the shooting lens from the back and see if it is clear or not. As you can see my photo compared to others shot with the same camera is far from decent.

 

[ATTACH=full]1292353[/ATTACH]

The lens is just dirty right ? So you can clean it ? Sure hope the dirt can be removed. I like the shot.

[John Seaman]

The front surface of the rear lens group on Yashicamats can get dirty, perhaps from oil spray from the shutter mechanism.

[jpcalma]

I’ll be honest with you. Looking through the back in good light and it looks like it’s scratched up.

 

I’m considering shipping it to Mark Hanna or LeZot as both can do a CLA. LeZot is much cheaper at $125 and Mark hanna is at $195 but he is a dedicated Yashica tech. So at this point I’m still debating.

 

The lens is just dirty right ? So you can clean it ? Sure hope the dirt can be removed. I like the shot.

[ben_hutcherson]

If it was claimed to be CLAed and in good working condition, I personally would be looking for a refund from the seller.

 

"Scratches" could be scratches in the coating, which often don't have that much of an effect outside of high contrast light, or you could be seeing fungus. Fungus will often have a sort of spiderweb pattern or otherwise be a grouping of randomly arranged filaments. If it's the latter, it MAY be salvageable but it may have also etched the coating under it. Also, the rest of the camera is now suspect.

[jpcalma]

I’m in the process of returning my 124G. I have a few Medium Format cameras but the 124G was my only TLR. I already bought the +1 lens for it as well as the battery for the light meter (which I didn’t really need.) so I would like to look for another one.

 

Hopefully my local camera store will have one.

[jpcalma]

Just have to say. Looking at the actual photos on FlickR that this cameras has produced cracks me up because I thought at first “wow this camera is crap or I’m just a shitty photographer”. Not knowing that the one I purchased was just bad.

 

Also I’m a shitty photographer. LoL!

[jimnorwood]

Just have to say. Looking at the actual photos on FlickR that this cameras has produced cracks me up because I thought at first “wow this camera is crap or I’m just a shitty photographer”. Not knowing that the one I purchased was just bad.

 

Also I’m a shitty photographer. LoL!

I thought your shot posted above was rather good.

[orsetto]

I’m in the process of returning my 124G. I have a few Medium Format cameras but the 124G was my only TLR. I already bought the +1 lens for it as well as the battery for the light meter (which I didn’t really need.) so I would like to look for another one.

 

My first TLR (25 years ago-yikes) was a 124G: I liked it well enough, but at the time was still too steeped in Nikon F2AS shooting to really bond with either it or the 6x6 format. After getting into Hasselblad and 6x6 some years later, I acquired a Mamiya C220 and instantly loved it. For what some sellers are asking for clean 124Gs now, you can pick up a near-indestructible C220 with 80mm f/2.8 (or one of several interesting 105mm f/3.5 versions). Its a little bigger and noticeably heavier, but not nearly as bad as the gigantic C33 or deluxe C330, and the built-in bellows offers amazing closeup flexibility.

 

If you're set on another Yashica, consider a slightly earlier model than the 124G, As many here have posted, hipsters turned it into an overpriced cult item in recent years. For most of its life, it sold for around $179 brand new, and clean used examples usually went for a C-note from the day it was discontinued until the late '90s. The lens is nice, but build quality dropped over its 16 years in production, so the 124G tends to have more issues than earlier versions. The previous 124 (no G) was somewhat better built, older versions like the D (but only with Yashinon lens) were perhaps the peak.

[fred_haeseker]

I agree with orsetto; I managed to pick up an early Yashicamat (probably late '50s, Lumaxar lenses), in truly mint condition, for $100. No light meter of course, but I don't trust old built-in meters anyway. The earlier Yashicas are sturdier than the later ones, which used more plastic.

[tomspielman]

I have a Yashica 12 so it still has a meter but also the chrome bits of earlier models rather than the black plastic of the 124G. Though I've never had one, my guess is the 124G isn't the step down that people sometimes make it out to be. The difference in weight between the 12 and the 124G is pretty insignificant so there isn't that much plastic in it that wasn't there before and probably nothing structural. Further it has better baffling to help deal with the lens flare that plagued earlier models.

 

I don't think they're worth the current premium over the older 124 and other models but most likely they are every bit as good if not better. A little weight loss in these old tanks is not necessarily a bad thing. ;) I say that as someone who loves his 12 but saves it for special shots because I don't particularly enjoy carrying it around.

[orsetto]

The plastic added to the 124G (mostly) doesn't affect reliability: more the overall assembly quality and declining precision of parts as production dragged on. Some batches of 124G are nearly as well made as previous versions, while others can very problematic. So in 2019, assuming similar pricing, the older 124 or D might be safer bets.

 

Then again, most TLRs at this point need an overhaul to perform their best, so any purchase should assume it might be necessary. Pre-G models are just more likely to have sturdier mechanics to start with.

[greg_jones3]

I had a 124G that I bought brand new back in the day. It was a delicate instrument to say the least. The winding mechanism was the weak spot. Had it serviced three times and finally gave up on it and moved to Hasselblad. Oh, and a Rollei 2.8 E2 for good measure.

[Mike Gammill]

When my family had a camera shop (1974-1993) we sold a fair number of Yashicamat 124G cameras. Most users got a feel for the format and later moved on to Mamiya 645 and similar gear. A properly working (by now a CLA in order) is still a good transition to more sophisticated 120 gear, but for many the quality produced is good enough that an upgrade may not be desired. The Japanese made TLR (Yashica, Minolta Autocord, Ricoh, for example) offered many features of the pricier Rollieflex but at one half to one third the price. The better ones (4 element lenses) delivered good performance (with the cheaper triplet lenses not quite as good).

[fendytjhin]

Having service both, I would disagree with this statement, the gears in my 124G are metal, similar to those in my EM. However, the exterior knobs, dials and levers are all plastic.

 

The EM does have a nicer feel and smoother operation than the 124G, but when it comes to the final image, the light baffles in the 124G (which are absent in the EM) , make a big difference to flare. The EM is nicer to operate - the 124G makes a better image. If you could put the light box of the 124G in the body of the EM, you would get...... a Rolleiflex! ;)

 

I have a Dec 1972 manufactuting date 124G (7 digit serial number and serial number on lens) and I can definately confirm that mine has a metal lever and all smaller knobs like shutter speed and apperture knobs are metal too, just painted black. I know this because of 3 things, they are cold to the touch, I scraped them with a key which made a metal sound and some black paint wore off and shiny metal underneath.

 

There are however, these plastic parts on mine, the lever washer cover, the shutter lock, the focus knob and battery cover. The rest of the parts on mine are all metal including the film spool knobs.

 

Out of curiosity, which serial number do you have? Is it a 6 digits or 7 digits serial? Does your lens have a serial number?

[tom_chow]

I have a Dec 1972 manufactuting date 124G (7 digit serial number and serial number on lens) ... <snip>

Out of curiosity, which serial number do you have? Is it a 6 digits or 7 digits serial? Does your lens have a serial number?

 

My G has 7 digit SN, no # on the lens.

 

My wind crank is aluminium plate (instead of cast steel on the EM) but the knob is plastic. On closer inspection, the shutter and aperture dial may be painted aluminium, but they sure look and feel like plastic.

[fendytjhin]

My G has 7 digit SN, no # on the lens.

 

My wind crank is aluminium plate (instead of cast steel on the EM) but the knob is plastic. On closer inspection, the shutter and aperture dial may be painted aluminium, but they sure look and feel like plastic.

 

That is really interesting because the wind crank on mine is definately not aluminium, its some kind steel. It doesn't have that aluminium sound when I tap with a key. It sounds much denser than aluminium. The whole camera also has a heft to it further suggesting that there are minimal plastic parts.

 

You are not the only person who have commented about the plastic parts. The guy from the shop where I got mine serviced also commented that the whole front and light meter housing part (where it says Yashina) of the camera is plastic, and saying that the non G variants were better because of less plastic parts.... until I showed him the silvery metal exposed bit where I had scraped the black paint off with a key. I strongly suspect more and more that they started using more plastic parts over the years of production until 1986. But from when?

 

7 digits and no serial on lens, yours would fall between 1975 to 1980. What is the first 4 digits of your serial number? I can decode it for you.

 

Also, does yours feel hefty? Like it feels heavier than what your brain perceived before you picked up the object?

[tom_chow]

That is really interesting because the wind crank on mine is definately not aluminium...

...What is the first 4 digits of your serial number? I can decode it for you.

...does yours feel hefty?

 

My wind crank is definitely Aluminium, it has indicative blemishes from wear. I have an EM as well, which has a shaped cast steel crank, the G has a cut plate that has be anodized.

 

My light meter housing is cast aluminium, but the name plate with the chrome trim is plastic.

 

The 1st 4 digits of the SN is 6083.

 

My G is lighter than my EM. It has moderate heft, but I would not call it hefty. It is lighter than most Rolleiflexxes (Rolleiflexs? Rolleiflexes?) I've held.

[jimnorwood]

My wind crank is also metal.

[fendytjhin]

My wind crank is definitely Aluminium, it has indicative blemishes from wear. I have an EM as well, which has a shaped cast steel crank, the G has a cut plate that has be anodized.

 

My light meter housing is cast aluminium, but the name plate with the chrome trim is plastic.

 

The 1st 4 digits of the SN is 6083.

 

My G is lighter than my EM. It has moderate heft, but I would not call it hefty. It is lighter than most Rolleiflexxes (Rolleiflexs? Rolleiflexes?) I've held.

 

Your G is manufactured in August of 1976. This is determined by 7 digit serial and no serial number on lens being between 1975 to 1980. First digit as year of the 70s and second and thrid digit as month, 08 being August.

 

Mine being 7 digit serial plus serial number on lens falls between September 1970 to December 1974.

 

My guess is they probably changed to cheaper aluminium and more plastic parts from February 1975 when they started manufacturing that year.

 

I dont have another G made from that period to compare. I have held a couple of Rolleiflexes when I got my G serviced and they felt about the same weight as my Yashica 124G.

 

This is all very interesting!

 

If you guys are curious of what the insides look like on the G, type "Fix old cameras Yashica 124G" on youtube search. Mostly metal parts!

[martinjones]

I acquired my 124G about 10 years ago. Serial number is 6 digits starting with 1528 - May 1981? The original sales receipt is from 1982.

 

I sent the camera off for a CLA and the repairman noted hazing on the inside of the rear element with minor coating damage. He also recalibrated the meter to use a 1.5V cell. I don't know if this involved the incorporation of a Schottky diode in the circuit or he adjusted the pots in the metering circuit. Regardlesss I use a hand held Gossen meter for exposure evaluation.

 

The lens hazing appears to be common on this model. Outgassing from shutter lubricants? About 4 years ago I cleaned the rear element of the taking lens and It looks like I will need to do it again soon.

 

With a clear lens the camera is capable of very good results. As I have also acquired a selection of filters and a Rollei Bay-1 lens hood I might just go on the hunt for a corresponding Rollei TLR or a Minolta Autocord. It's getting harder to get service in Australia for this sort of equipment.

[fendytjhin]

I acquired my 124G about 10 years ago. Serial number is 6 digits starting with 1528 - May 1981? The original sales receipt is from 1982.

 

I sent the camera off for a CLA and the repairman noted hazing on the inside of the rear element with minor coating damage. He also recalibrated the meter to use a 1.5V cell. I don't know if this involved the incorporation of a Schottky diode in the circuit or he adjusted the pots in the metering circuit. Regardlesss I use a hand held Gossen meter for exposure evaluation.

 

The lens hazing appears to be common on this model. Outgassing from shutter lubricants? About 4 years ago I cleaned the rear element of the taking lens and It looks like I will need to do it again soon.

 

With a clear lens the camera is capable of very good results. As I have also acquired a selection of filters and a Rollei Bay-1 lens hood I might just go on the hunt for a corresponding Rollei TLR or a Minolta Autocord. It's getting harder to get service in Australia for this sort of equipment.

 

Your 6 digit serial G falls from 1980 to 1986. Serial numbers starts from 051xxx in 1980 to 235xxx in 1986 and its consecutive.

 

Martin, im in Australia too. Are you in Sydney?

 

You are right, it's getting harder to find a reliable person to service or repair fully mechanical cameras.