brian_utley Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Can I use the same chemicals to develop my 120 film as I do with 35mm film? I use the Lauder developer. I have never used 120 film before and it has a different back than 35mm film. I am using agfapan 400. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maury_cohen Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Yes, but don't process the paper backing roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_utley Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 So I peel off the back portion of the film? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maury_cohen Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 As you remove the roll from the core you'll feel the paper separate from the film. 120/220 is trickier to load onto the reel than 35mm. You may want to practice with a dummy roll in daylight before trying it with an exposed roll. This is doubly true with stainless steel spiral reels and with the longer 220. Plastic "self loading" type reels are a bit easier, but can still jam more easily than with 35mm. When you get to the end of the paper backing there's a piece of tape adhering it to the film. carefully peel this off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger_michel Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 a couple of other points: the total film area of a roll of 120 is more or less the same as a 36x135 so the exhaustion calculatiosn will be the same. be careful of static electricity when you remove the tape -- it can actually cause sparks that will fog the film. always make sure your reels and hands are bone dry when loading film. 120 kinks easily. good luck. it's a snap after a few rolls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_boley Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Brian,I too am new to the 120 processing. The first time I got in the darkroom, I tried to load the paper backing onto the reel. I almost got it done. Then I felt the film, and knew what to do when I found the tape that held them together. What I do is cup the film spool in my left hand while holding the ends between my thumb and middle finger. As I pull the paper off with my right hand, the roll of film rolls itself neatly into my left palm. When I hit the tape, I carefully remove it from the end of the film and then just drop the paper backing onto the floor. I then load the film onto the spool. I use one of the plastic reels that you crank back and forth between your hands. I've found that the 120 film jams easily unless I hold pressure on the outside edges of the spool. By pushing the edges of the spool together during loading, this larger film can't push it's way out of the slot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_newton1 Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 With regard to the tape on the end. I never remove the tape from the film, only from the paper and fold it over onto the other side of the film. I have processed a heap of films without problem. At first I thought the bulkiness of the tape folded over may be a problem but I see nothing to suggest this method causes a problem. I agree the film loading onto the spiral can be a bit to learn. Clip off the corners from the leading edge of the film, this will make loading easier and lessen the chance of jamming, you probably already do this with 35mm. I do all my loading inside a dark bag with little room, but have no problems, just took some practice and swearing. :-) You need to make up 500ml for a 120 roll film too at least in a Paterson tank anyway. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrestrikon Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 If you peel unwisely there may be a flash of static that can fog film. Much better to keep your sissors handy and snip off the end. Actually, I find that putting 120 on a reel is much easier than 35, but it does depend on the film. Good luck, G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_bright Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 I've developed thousands of rolls of 120 (B&W and Color)and I always use scissors. Just grip the piece of tape firmly and cut across the film as squarely as possible and as close to the tape as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_marvin Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 I too find loading much easier with 120 than with 35 mm. I use stainless steel reels. I can only consistantly load 35 mm onto Kinderman reels using their plastic loader and turning the crank on the end of the reel--otherwise I get film sticking together. With 120 I find the Kinderman loader more trouble than its worth. I have one Hewes reel, a couple of generic Japanese reels and several Kinderman reels--all load 120 with equal ease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle_ziba Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 I agree - don't peel the tape. Also if you cut yourself with scissors don't peel off a band-aid while loading the film, (and no spark welding for that matter). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_kaplan1 Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 I've always torn the tape. It seems to want to tear straight, right at the end of the film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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