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1V HS Removal of PB-E2 & Weatherproofing


beauh44

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Hello all, I was wondering if anyone might give me some advice to a

probably rather silly question. I decided on buying the 1V HS (The

EOS 1V with the PB-E2 booster already attached) less than a year ago.

It's a brick that takes awesome pictures! Fast! Anyway, I've never

had the cahunas to completely remove the PB-E2 booster from the

camera. There's a dial that unscrews which presumably separates the

booster from the camera and I did loosen it once, but chickened out

when things seemed a little shaky and screwed it back together. So, I

was wondering a few things, actually: 1) Is there anything different

about a 1V HS as opposed to what you'd have if you first purchased

the 1V and later added the PB-E2? 2) Can the booster be removed and

the camera used with it's own batteries to lighten the load

sometimes? 3) What's the deal with the seam where booster and camera

meet with regards to weatherproofing? It sure looks like it might be

a weak link with regards to moisture entering the camera. I'm not

going to test that out tho'! Thanks in advance for any experiences,

thoughts or advice! -- Beau

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If you remove your PB-E2 you'll see gaskets and baffles around the areas where moisture would cause problems. It's obviously been designed to withstand uncomfortable conditions.

 

It probably won't take total immersion for more than an instant but I have no intentions of testing it to that extent anyway. I haven't hesitated to take my 1v out in drizzle and moderate rain, tho'.

 

If you remove the PB-E2 and buy the "standard" battery housing you'll save weight, but it eats those expensive lithiums rather quickly. IMX, a good alternative is the battery pack that uses AA cells but lets you switch to a CR-2 if you have to.

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I think it's interesting to note that the PB-E2 was introduced with the EOS-3 and Canon has never claimed that it has the same weather sealing as the EOS-1V. Also, there is no indication that they have upgraded it to match the EOS-1V nor is there any indication that they intend to. Although the PB-E2 has a gasket around the drive coupler, the GR-E2 grip has better sealing where it mates with the camera grip area.
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And around all the contacts in the hand-grip area, which itself fits quite snugly to the body.

 

I'd take it apart and clean it if I'd used it in salt spray, but other than that I can't see where semi-reasonable exposure to moisture would be a problem.

 

Could it be sealed better? Sure. Is it worth worrying about as it is? I don't think so.

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If you want to weather seal it even more use black electrical cut out for all the grip and body features (ie. batt. pack removal, on/off switch, etc.) and put that on the joint between the PB-E2 and the body. Did anyone notice the gears showing near the little disk that is turned to fasten the PB-E2 to the body. That can let in a lot of junk. My camera is now truely as sealed off as it can get. I don't know why Canon didn't design it better. If I can see open gears than so can dust, sand, and rain.
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Thanks for all replies! Chad says:

 

>If you want to weather seal it even more use black electrical cut out for all the grip and body features

 

Thanks! I figured that might be necessary. It's not that it keeps me up at night - in fact, I rarely take it in harsh environments. (I am planning a trip to Yosemite which is pretty wet in the spring) I'd just like to understand if and where the weekest link might be.

 

To my question "Is there anything different about a 1V HS as opposed to what you'd have if you first purchased the 1V and later added the PB-E2?" Isaac replied "No, if you buy grip GR-E2", and I'm not quite sure I understand that. Since I did not buy the GR-E2 does that mean I shouldn't remove the PB-E2?

 

Again, this is far from a weighty matter and I'm not planning on sending it over Niagra Falls. I suppose I'm just curious about other's experiences.

 

And just wondering aloud: If the GR-E2 is at least in some ways seemingly superior to the PB-E2 (GR=slower??), I wonder why Canon didn't offer a choice of boosters to be included if desired? And don't get me started about trying to get to that custom function button behind the magnetic door in cold weather!! ;-) Many thanks to all for the help! ...Beau

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If you don't have the PB-E2 attached to the EOS-1V, you need the GR-E2 grip because it houses a 2CR5 6 volt battery.

 

You must have a power source attached to the camera and that means a PB-E2 with 8 AA batteries (or the rechargeable NiMH power pack), the GR-E2 with a 2CR5 battery or a BP-E1 battery pack with a 2CR5 and/or 4 AA batteries.

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The GR-E2 is the grip that would normally come with your 1V if you purchased it without the booster. When you loosened the the booster, did you not notice that the horizontal grip was also lose? Canon's Profresional cameras ( 1, 1N, 1V, 3 ) houses the battery in the grip.
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<p align="middle"><img src="http://www.whos-j00r-daddeh.net/is2/gr-e1.jpg"></p><p>

 

GR-E1 grip above (GR-E2 looks identical. Differences are minor and the two are interchangeable as far as I know).<p>

 

<p align="middle"><img src="http://www.whos-j00r-daddeh.net/is2/eos3b.jpg"></p><p>

 

EOS 3 without GR-E2 mounted. In this state (and if the drive connector on the bottom of the camera is also not covered by the small screw-in cover) you have the choice of mounting GR-E1/GR-E2 grip to make a basic EOS 3/1v, mount BP-E1 (4AA batteries, 2CR5 battery, no controls) battery pack to make EOS 3/1v DP (Dual Power), or adding PB-E2 to make EOS 3/1v HS (High Speed) with greater frame-rates, 8AA batteries or NP-E2 NiMH pack and vertical controls.

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