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any success loading HIE into an M3?


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anyone out there ever tackle infrared shooting with an m3? i imagine

the loading of the film could cause headache's...should i just avoid

this all together or give it a shot? any suggestions?

 

on another topic, my theory of uv filters has always been this...why

spend hundreds of $ on top quality zeiss/shneider/leica glass only to

put a $20 filter in front of it. i'd like to protect my investment

with a uv filter and am looking for feedback re: the B+W or Hoya uv

filters...do they make uv's in a 43mm thread? does anyone use these

things? or am i correct in thinking it insane to put on a cheap piece

of glass in front of perfection???

 

thanks guys.

 

m

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I use my M-2 regularly for HIE. Just load and unload it in the dark (dark room or a changing bag).

 

Of course you need a filter to get full infrared results. B+W makes them, and they are not cheap glass but coated optical glass. There are several densities of IR. You can also use a deep red filter. Leica once made an E39 IR filter (which is the one I use), but a deep red will also give you much of the IR effect.

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The Konica film is called Konica 750 Infrared (Black & White) and produces almost the same effect as High Speed Infrared. The Konica film's sensitivity doesn't go as far into the infrared as Kodak's, hence the easier loading procedures.

 

Generally, it's not easy to find though, as supposedly it's only made once per year in January (?) and is allocated globally. I've got 5 rolls in my fridge downstairs, waiting for the spring thaw.

 

There's lots on Google: search for Konica Infrared Film.

 

Skip

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Matt, I ran across an item, I think on here, where someone was telling about loading HIE under subdued light, IE, not in absolute darkness as Kodak recommends. And, supposedly, fluorescent lights emit very little infrared. So, if you think its a problem, try loading it in some subdued fluorescent light- probably safer than physically tearing it up otherwise.
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I use the M3 for infrared as I think it is easier to load. Just put the film on the spool and insert. The problem with the M4 forward quick load is trying to put the leader exactly in the takeup spoon in the dark. Too much and too little can be a problem. No guesswork with older removable spoon as its easy to feel where the film goes.

 

You need filters for the full effect of IR no matter how good or bad your lens is.

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To use HIE you need a rangefinder. I have am M6, IIIc and

Canon 7. You need a IR filter. The one I have is a Hoya RM100

(1000nm) far-infrared filter with 48mm thread. Only HIE has

sensitivity in this range. The filter can be adapted to fit my Canon

50mm f/1.4 screwmount lens which fits the IIIc or Canon, the

later being much easier to load in the dark. I shot a test roll last

week, no foliage but a lot of snow, trees, clouds, and livestock.

As suggested by Kodak, I made shots with #25 red filter rated at

ISO 50, without filter at ISO80 and with the IR filter at ISO 6,3,1.5

and .75. I developed the film (unloading the camera in a

changing bag) and developed in D-76 at 68F as directed. I was

quite pleased to see that every frame was close to the mark on

exposure. If anyone is interested I can upload some images.

This film is expensive about 12 dollars a roll, but the thrill of

experimentation is worth it.<div>004cNe-11612584.jpg.569ead6b946725606e90fcdef7a0e3ec.jpg</div>

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