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developing 8x10


bob haight

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Bob, I like using trays until I start thinking about putting my fingers in the "soup" and what happens to you when you're dying of kidney failure from absorbing chemicals through your skin( this happened to a friend of mine, not a photographer but a mechanic who used to soak parts in carburettor cleaner---I have no idea if this would be possible with the chemicals I use, but as they say, just because you're paranoid, it dosen't mean someones not out to get you!) I haven't found gloves as being all that practical so I minimize exposure by rocking my trays for agitation and only using my fingers to move the film from tray to tray. I do have a set of Ace rubber tanks and a handful of kodak hangers, but I don't have the "knack" for loading hangers and with little ones about, I'm not sure I'd want to keep 3 1/2 gallon tanks full of chemicals around the house anyway. My vote goes with the Uni-color tanks(the one for paper is what you need) Check Tuan's LF Homepage for an excellent article on thier use. I got mine with the base, an extra drum for film and a box full of other darkroom stuff for $40 on e-bay. It's cheaper than having to check into Kaiser! Good luck!
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Developing 8x10 film in an 11x14 tray is really quite easy. I use latex gloves and have for years without problems.

 

An 8x10 tank needs lots of chemical volume, and hangers can cause streaks with Pyro (for example). I do use hangers, but only to dry the sheets.

 

I have found that it is a big help to prewet the sheets in a metaborate bath from which it is easy to transfer to the developer and get consistent timing.

 

I'd started using BTZS-like tubes, and found that it is more trouble loading the chems into each tube, and dealing with each tube, that it is worth. By the time you've got everything done, you have just a few short minutes in the dark. Developing 8x10 by inspection is particularly easy when using trays.

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Hello Bob

I have used a (not very expensive) JOBO paper-tank that have space for 2x8"x10" sheets and uses only 150 cc. of chemistry each time. Excellent for E-6. This tank (sorry' don't recall the number) have small ribs on the inner side permitting liquid to be washed of the back side of the film. Don't know if this is important with b&w film, but it is when doing E6. I use a Jobo CPA, but the tank can be turned by any of the on-the-shelf tank-motors so common in the CIBA age (and thus easy to get by). Hangers for 8"x10" is still made - check Calumet - they used to have both the (expensive) Kodak hangers & the inexpensive un-marked ones. Belive Adorama also stocks both types. Used ones is nearly allways available on E bay.

 

Good luck.

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I used trays for about a year when I first started with 8x10 but I hated standing in the dark for ten or twelve minutes juggling trays and shuffling negatives while inhaling chemical fumes.I also often scratched maybe one out of every fifteen or twenty negatives, always the best ones of course. I then built my own tubes since I had used the 4x5 BTZS tubes for years and liked them a lot but didn't want to pay the price for the BTZS 8x10 tubes. I found that successfully making your own 8x10 tubes is more difficult than 4x5 tubes. The sticking point for me was the cap. Since I had no way of cutting threads, I had to rely on the caps fitting very tightly to prevent developer from leaking. When the caps were tight enough to prevent leaking, they were too tight to be easily and quickly removed because of their large size, which messed up my developing times. After wrestling with this problem for a while I broke down and bought three of the BTZS 8x10 tubes and I've been very pleased with them. You probably could successfully build your own with enough tools, skill, and time, but unless you have all three I'd suggest just buying the tubes from The View Camera Store and be done with it.

 

If you use the tubes then of course you don't need hangers (assuming your question about hangers was directed at using them in a tank).

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Hangers are easy in a tank, and I've never had surge marks yet,

but that may be because I swing my holders and don't take them

out of the tanks. If your are developing film quite often or develop

more than a couple of sheets at a time you might consider

getting a large tank and sectioning it off with glass and silicone.

Less footprint and you can always install small brass spouts at

the bottom of the side for emptying back into your containers.

You can also get the holders with the clips at the top instead of

the hangers.

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i have used the btz tubes. there are several advantages. first, the developement is extremely uniform. second, you are developing the negatives in the light. no scratching occurs as with trays, and hangers are in the dark and not prone to consistently uniform results. i have used them for several years and they are terrific. by the way, it is very easy to make the tubes or you can buy them from the view camera store in arizona. howard
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