First shot after a few hours, delay in mirror flip

[sepehr_zamani]

<p>Hello, </p>

<p>I had my RZ67 II CLA'd at Nippon in NY in 2014 this problem persisted before and after the CLA. I had a lens rebuilt and the hotshoe didnt work.</p>

<p>When I dont use the camera anywhere between months and 2 hours, the first shot taken, there is a delay when the shutter release button is pressed. It takes ~1 second for the mirror to finally begin flipping up and then the picture being taken. All shots after the first shot are fine and the mirror flips and the shutter releases correctly. I'm not sure why this happens, and its not the worst problem a camera can have but it is rather annoying.<br>

Has anyone experienced this? And does anyone have any solutions aside from sending it in for repair?</p>

<p>Thank you for taking the time to read.</p>

 

[paul ron]

. the rz is electronic n your problem doesnt sound mechanical

since that was worked on recently.

[sepehr_zamani]

<p>letting the camera sit on a head pad atm to see if that changed anything...</p>

[Dustin McAmera]

I have something similar on a Canon A1. I understand the shutter uses two electromagnets. The first one has to be released to let the first shutter blind move, opening the shutter, then the second one releases to let the second blind go, closing it. I think my problem is that the first magnet is nt letting go when it's switched off. This could be because it's contaminated with magnetic metal particles, our even just sticky dirt. However, the delay for me is only ever a second or two, and goes away after a couple of exposures, so I live with it.

I'm away for Christmas, or I'd look in Tomosy's book. It may be we could both clean our magnets by ourselves!

[Dustin McAmera]

<p>I have now looked at Thomosy (Book 1: Page 40 and page 98. Thoroughly recommended). He talks about the Canon AE-1. On this, the shutter is held closed by a combination magnet. This is a permanent magnet core, with a coil round it. The camera applies a short pulse of current to the coil to momentarily <em>de</em>magnetise the core, and so let go of another, spring-loaded part that releases the shutter. Timing doesn't begin until the shutter moves, I think; so our exposure should be correct, even though it's late.<br>

On the AE1, the magnet is just under the bottom cover, with its own plastic cover. Thomosy says you can clean magnetised particles or dirt (it's just possible I've read this page before!) from it with sticky tape, then with solvent on a tissue.<br>

If that doesn't help, he talks about scoring the surface of the core so there's a little less surface contact, or bending the spring that helps pull the other part away, to make it pull harder. These sound like you could easily break something. <br>

Not sure if that will help you with the RZ. I have no idea how you would get to the relevant parts, or even if they're the same. </p>

[sepehr_zamani]

<p>it does sound similar to the ae-1 and what you have described. The shutter works better when left on a heat pad, fyi. I took the camera to a camera repair shop here n LA called Walters. I showed him the problem clearly, he said he could fix it. I received the camera today and he said that there were bent parts inside. He's an older person that doesn't seem to like conversation or explaining things. The shutter worked fine, when I tested it there, why wouldn't it though, he hadnt cocked it yet and he could have released the shutter before I arrived. I wait a few hours and it's still good. I put the camera in the fridge for 30 min as cold weather exacerbates the problem, and it delayed again! but, a little less than before. if he didnt fix it the first time I doubt he could fix it a 2nd time. Nippon is an excellent repair shop in NY and they didnt seem to fix it either. the only option to me is to send it back to Mamiya itself. I put the camera in mechanical mode and removed the battery to see if the problem is still there to determine if it's completely a mechanical problem. thanks</p>