Denatured alcohol safe for lens elements?

[bhuij]

<p>I'm restoring an Ansco Speedex 6x6 foldout camera (one of the Isolette types) and it has the dreaded stuck focusing, from dried up lubricant between the front and middle elements.<br>

<br />Most of the stuff I'm seeing online says either heat (oven or hair dryer) or a day-long soak in naptha or alcohol is my best bet to get the two elements unstuck so I can clean out the threads, re-collimate, and reassemble the camera.</p>

<p>The lens is an Agfa Agnar 85mm f/4.5. It's three elements and I'd be flabbergasted to find out that any of the elements are coated. Is denatured alcohol safe for me to use? Is there something that would help liquefy and loosen up the old caked-in lubricant better?</p>

<p>I also read that a tiny, tiny amount of petroleum jelly is an ideal lubricant for the focusing mechanism (which is just threads between the front and middle elements). Seems questionable to me; anyone have experience using petroleum jelly as lubricant for threads?</p>

<p>Thanks, in advance.</p>

[JDMvW]

<blockquote>

<p>I also read that a tiny, tiny amount of petroleum jelly is an ideal lubricant for the focusing mechanism</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Be sure that if you do use it, you use far, far less than the minimum amount you'd think possible. Work it before using more.<br /> For heaven's sake don't use any jelly that has additives (like menthol or such).<br /> I'd recommend that you might look on line for something like watch oil. In the amounts used, it will last for the rest of your life or so. There are places offering supplies for camera repair, etc.</p>

[bhuij]

<p>Yeah I'm dipping my toes in the "restoring old cameras" game, because I'm terrified of a future where there is nobody left who knows how to get these treasures back up and functioning. I'm 25 now and hope to still be shooting my Zeiss Ikoflex, RB67, etc. etc. when I'm 80.</p>

<p>If this works I will definitely be investing in some watch oil.</p>

[steve_mareno1]

<p>Alcohol is fine, but the only way I have been able to get those things unstuck was by removing the lens and shutter assy and soaking it in 91% alcohol in a coffee cup for several days. Nothing else ever worked. I once left the lenses in the shutter and soaked it all in one piece and had no problems. Alcohol is not going to harm glass or metal, and this method gives the shutter a good clean too.</p>

<p>Once it's unstuck, unscrew the front optic (make sure to mark where the threads come loose from the barrel or you will have lots of fun getting infinity focus later on) and remove every vestige of that green grease w/ a Q-tip soaked in lighter fluid. Also, when you take off the front distance bezel, make sure you have the optic at infinity and make a mark on it and the bezel so that you put it back in the same place. Sometimes those three grub screws are hard to get out, but use a good screw driver and don't take them all the way out, just back them off enough to get the bezel off. If you don't get every teeny bit of green grease off the threads you'll regret it later. When it's all clean in there I usually put a little dab of synthetic or silicone bike chain oil on the threads before reassembling.</p>

<p>Once it's back together, open the shutter to B and keep it open w/ a cable release, put a piece of ground glass across the film rails w/ tape, and focus on something 100' away and see if infinity is sharp by using a loupe or a 50mm lens as a loupe. Some people suggest using something 1/4 mile away for focus but that's crazy. Look at most lenses and usually right after 70' to 100' on their distance markings you see infinity. If you're fuzzy about any of this, there are lots of tutorials on the internet.</p>

<p>The Agnar is a great 3 element lens. They render very nicely and are sharp by f8. Now, how is the bellows on the camera?</p>

[allen_gara]

<p>I agree with Steve, you won't be able to get enough squirted into the threads to make much difference. And I use DA to soak all the time. I's safer than Naptha because it won't mess up any of the painted parts. Remove the entire assembly from the inside with the outer retaining ring. I fill up a tupperware container so I can put a lid on it. DA evaporates. Also, I use some small glass droppers to squirt the DA into any openings or slots once in awhile, then shake it out. Stuff comes out, and it's not pretty. I'm sure 91% alcohol does the trick too, I just happen to have DA around all the time. Once it's apart, then for sure Naptha (lighter fluid) will get it off well.<br>

<br />For lube I like to use Super Lube 21030. You can get it at the hardware store or some auto parts stores. It's synthetic, has PTFE in it, and won't run or drip when it heats up. Vaseline will move around on a hot day. </p>

[glen_h]

<p>Alcohol should be safe for lenses.</p>

<p>Possibly it could soften the glue used for multi element lenses, but usually that needs something stronger, like acetone. I don't know if Speedex have multi element lenses.</p>

[james_elwing]

<p>Anhydrous isopropyl alcohol which is quite pure is available for cleaning electronic components etc, at a reasonable price. Usually it behaves like ethanol/ ethyl alcohol solvent wise.</p>

[bhuij]

<p>Thanks for all the help on this guys. Everything actually worked out great.</p>

<p>I removed the front/mid elements (gummed together) from the Vario shutter and gave it an overnight soak in a cup of denatured alcohol. This morning the front and mid elements came apart with normal finger pressure; didn't even need to use tools.</p>

<p>My shutter is actually in remarkably good shape. Shutter blades and aperture blades are snappy and show no signs of oil, grease, or stickiness. I need to actually check the shutter speed on my computer (the microphone + Audacity technique has served me well in the past) for accuracy, but I don't think it's far off.</p>

<p>I thoroughly cleaned all lens elements and all threads with q-tips and denatured alcohol. Kind of insane how much green gunk came out of those threads. After applying a couple of tiny dabs of fine non-drying lube from the hardware store and working it into the threads really well, the focusing front element was buttery smooth.</p>

<p>Reassembled everything and used my RB67's ground glass taped to the back of the body to collimate the focus again. After that I had to get to work, so I loaded up a roll of PanF+ to test it out and left it on my desk. I'll probably burn that roll and develop it today to see how bad the light leaks are.</p>

<p>The bellows need some serious love, so that may be my next project. Anyone have tips for materials to use in bellows construction? I like making my own parts and this is actually a perfect practice project before I attempt to make my own bellows for a DIY 4x5 camera. I think I'm addicted to this camera restoration thing.</p>