Nikon F3 (35mm film camera) and shutter settings for studio use.

[doug_ross3]

<p>Wondering if anyone has experience of using their Nikon F3 in the studio connected via a PC cable to a softbox? Specifically if you just A) use the light reading values from the stand alone light meter and set this on the camera; for example 1/125 @ f8 (being the most common studio setting.) Or B, set the shutter speed on the camera to X, accept that this gives you a 1/80 shutter sync speed and set the standalone light meter to return suggested aperture values from a 1/80 shutter speed setting.<br>

Any advice/help much appreciated.<br>

Thanks.<br>

Doug Ross</p>

<p> </p>

[Lou_Meluso]

<p>The F3 sync speed is 1/80th sec. Set the camera to that...the "X' mark on the shutter dial. On your handheld flash meter set the iso, and, if an incident meter, measure the light from the strobe from the subject position. Use the f/stop it gives you. Depending on the flash meter, the shutter speed, when measuring flash, is not an issue. <strong>You need to use the cameras sync speed or slower</strong>. You are using a flash meter, yes?</p>

<p>In a studio situation, your flash exposure is determined by the flash...its power setting and or distance from the subject and is affected by the modifier (soft box) you are using. Adjust the flash power setting or distance to the subject to get to the f/stop you want to use. The camera shutter speed should remain fixed.</p>

<p>Using a slower shutter than the sync speed works too but it depends what your shooting (is it moving), the iso of the film (high speed film can record modeling light) and the f/stop (wide open apertures with fast lenses lets in more ambient light than a lens stopped down)</p>

<p>If you set the shutter to faster than the cameras sync speed, the shutter will not be fully open when you make an exposure and part of the frame will be cut off. The higher the speed, the more of the frame will not be exposed.</p>

[henryp]

<blockquote>

<p>The F3 sync speed is 1/80th sec.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Maybe it's silly but I always felt safer at 1/60th. YMMV</p>

<p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>Yeah! 1/80 is OK as with syncing with the PC cord won't delay the flash but 1/60 is a good idea. Studio flash automatically turn off the modeling light so there is no ambient light to worry about.</p>

[Two23]

<p>I use the camera's sync (1/80s) and a hand held flash meter. I trigger the flash using CyberSync radio triggers. They work fine.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[raczoliver]

<p>I think we need to clarify some things, which it appears are not so clear to you. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you are trying to use an ambient light meter with strobes. That won't work. The modelling light only gives you a rough estimate of what the lighting will look like, but not the accurate light levels. The strobe is going to be much more powerful than that. You either need to use a dedicated flash meter, or even better, take trial shots with a digital camera and see what the right exposure is, before you burn your film.</p>

<p>Since the strobes only illuminate for a very short time (much shorter than your shutter speed), aperture and film sensitivity are the only means of controlling your exposure. Shutter speed is only relevant because above a certain shutter speed (1/80 sec on the F3) the rear curtain will start moving before the front curtain is fully open, hence at any given moment, only a portion of the film will be illuminated. If you use flash at these shutter speeds, a part of your picture will be pitch black. The fastest speed at which the front curtain opens fully before the rear curtain starts to close is your maximum flash sync speed. Keep your shutter speed at this speed or slower, but not much slower. More modern cameras have a higher flash sync speed, but with the F3 it's 1/80 sec.</p>

<p>Remember, if there is not much ambient light in the studio, the only things that will influence exposure are your aperture and the film sensitivity. Shutter speed is out of the equation, since the flash will only illuminate for a very short time, which will be shorter than your shutter speed, at any setting, so how long the shutter lets the light in is irrelevant (well... it would be, if there was absolutely no ambient light. Since there usually is some, it is desireable to keep the shutter speed as fast as possible in order to eliminate the effects of ambient light, being careful not to exceed your camera's flash sync speed). Since once you load the film, the sensitivity is fixed, you've only got the aperture left to play with.</p>

<p>If you have a digital camera available, set the ISO to the same as your film sensitivity, and check what aperture gives you the best exposure, then use that setting on the F3. Or get a flash meter, which you'll need to connect to the strobe with a sync chord, and it will fire the flash as you take the meter reading (If I understand correctly. I'll admit, I never acually used one, since it is rather unnecessary with a digital camera). Do not take an ambient meter reading using the modelling light, unless you are planning to shoot using only the modelling light (it sounds like that's not what you are planning to do, which is good.)</p>

<p>If this is too basic for you, I apologize, but in your question it sounded like you were trying to use an ambient light meter.</p>

[raczoliver]

<p>I should have clarified that of course you can also control exposure with the flash output and its distance from the subject, so once you get the exposure right, do not change those, otherwise you'll have to adjust your aperture too.</p>

[Two23]

<p>Flash exposure is controlled by:<br>

1. Distance<br>

2. Aperture<br>

3. Power level<br>

4. ISO<br>

Basically: shutter controls ambient, aperture controls flash. Most handheld meters that have flash metering capability will have an "F" in their model number. I use a Minolta IVf ambient/flash meter. It's actually more accurate than test shots with a DSLR. You can get by in a studio without a flash meter by doing the calculations--e.g aperture x distance (feet) = GN. I just use a flash meter.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[doug_ross3]

<p>I borrowed a flash meter, having followed your advice got some great images back from the lab earlier today. Once I have them on-line - I'll work out how to share some of them with you on this thread.<br>

Thanks to everyone for being there for me and for the great advice.<br>

Best wishes,<br>

Doug. </p><div></div>