Rolleicord V: does it have 1/3 aperture stops or 1/2 EVS stops?

[PaulWhiting]

<p>I mean the Rolleicord V, not Va or Vb. My Subject about covers it... this would simply help with my shopping. I would only fine tune it a bit and ask if these stops are clickable - and does the Rolleicord V have one - or the other - or both. Thank you!</p>

<p>Paul</p>

[thomas_k.]

<p>My Rolleicord V has 1/3 aperture stops. I do not use EV scale, but it is adjusted by the same lever as aperture so it looks like 1/3 stops as well - and yes they are clickable.</p>

[PaulWhiting]

<p>Thanks, Thomas, very helpful! And just what I was hoping to hear!</p>

<p>Paul</p>

[PaulWhiting]

<p>Thomas,</p>

<p>With all due respect, I just read somewhere that the EV lever is connected to the shutter... and thus has no clickable settings between the EV numbers. Would you mind checking your Rollei V again?</p>

<p>No offense!</p>

<p>Paul</p>

[richard_]

<p>Like Paul said the aperture has 1/3 settings. And yes the EV scale is connected to the shutter and it does have 1/3 clickable settings.</p>

[thomas_k.]

<p>Paul:<br>

Yes it is correct that EV scale is connected to shutter speed lever - so to change shutter/aperture combination and keep same EV level, shutter lever is moved with clicks only at full stops 1/15th of a sec, 1/30th of a sec, 1/60th of a sec and so on. I do not know if setting the lever between 1/15 and 1/30 will produce 1/23 if a sec - if Rolleicord's shutter is stepless then yes. <br>

EV scale can be set with 1/3 increment via shutter lever - so one can have value of EV 11, 11 1/3, 11 2/3 set.<br>

Again please note I do not use EV settings, so my explanation might be not clear enough - for me interlock between shutter and aperture in a nuisance, I have to remember that shutter lever changes shutter speed and aperture at the same time.<br>

All best.</p>

[brett_rogers]

The V shutter is a very conventional Synchro Compur. Unlike Eg. Earlier Compur Rapid types shutter speeds are only

selectable in whole stops. The shape of the cam for the pins on the selector ring means that moving the lever halfway between

the marked speeds will not split them. You can adjust the aperture setting lever for fine control of fractions of an EV after

setting shutter to closest one. For certain reasons I think the V is the best Rolleicord ever made but if you are pernickety

enough to demand accuracy of exposure to within one third of a stop do you really want a classic camera with Synchro

Compur? They are a shutter I like a great deal for several reasons, but if exposure accuracy is critical something with a

modern electronic shutter is likely to be much, much closer to achieving its nominal speeds. Not to mention the

consequences to accuracy of exposure of selecting various apertures with a mechanical leaf shutter.

[PaulWhiting]

<p>Thanks, everyone,</p>

<p>Brett, I've come to that conclusion about the V as well. I have a IV now - however in some ways I'd rather do without the EV feature. Thanks for the clarification how to use the EV scale however. I used to have a Va but didn't like the feature allowing different number of exposures. I didn't have to use it of course.</p>

<p>I don't need the kind of precise settings you mention... I shoot b/w film and there's some latitude with b/w of course. I'm not careless about b/w exposure, but not obsessive about it either.</p>

<p>Best regards,</p>

<p>Paul</p>

[PaulWhiting]

<p>Brett,</p>

<p>I hope you're still monitoring this thread... here's some heresy for you. A friend gave me a Rolleiflex 3.5E (Xenotar) to me (in exchange for one of my prints) and then I had a CLA done by Harry Fleenor. Beautiful camera, no doubt. But in some ways I prefer a Rolleicord! Lighter, less complex to go wrong. etc. The lens is probably better on the Flex but I've never had a serious complaint with the Rolleicord's Xenar.</p>

<p>Any thoughts?</p>

<p>Paul</p>

[brett_rogers]

Hi Paul,

Well broadly I tend to feel the same way you do. The TLR I mostly use these days is a 2.8C Rolleiflex with 80mm Xenotar,

and it's a fabulous camera and lens. But the difference in results between the Xenar and Xenotar/Planar is not as great,

at least in my view, as some owners (usually the Rolleiflex ones, from my observations!) sometimes claim. Schneider's

version of the 75mm Tessar is a good performer and it gives little away to the five (later, six) element Xenotars past f/5.6

or 8. More open the latter are likely to have sharper edges but it is like all things relative to the type of imaging you do and

how large you want to print. The Rolleicords are simpler, and lighter. The automatic film sensing system of the Rolleiflex is

reliable. But it adds weight and after some years it will occasionally need adjustment to operate to spec. On the other

hand this is not an issue for the Rolleicords, because they simply don't have it. So why do I have a Rolleiflex, then, given I

regard the Rolleicords in some ways as just as good or, even better in certain circumstances? No good reason—I just

love Rolleis, and after owning some Rolleicords I naturally wanted to try the Flexes. All are wonderful cameras, for me,

personally, I don't feel at all superior shooting with a Rolleiflex instead of a Cord, or the least inferior when it is the

reverse. Both types have their virtues and drawbacks, if you like the one you have then I think that, as always, this is the

most important thing. And personal preference counts for a great deal, it is a very subjective topic. I don't mind the separate wind and cocking of the Cords at all, and have always got along very nicely with the distinctive Cord lever shutter release, but many feel differently. If, like me, you're fortunate enough to own both types, they can make a fine pairing for colour and black and white imaging or just to alternate. But never, ever, be too hasty to dispose of a really good Rollei, regardless of

the model. Plenty have had regrets after they've done so. Including me!

[PaulWhiting]

<p>Brett,</p>

<p>Wonderful response, thank you. I've had several Rolleicords too, but like you, have always been curious about the Rolleiflex. A friend of mine wanted one of my prints and offered his Rolleiflex. Now, my prints are pretty good, some of them, and I've sold a few. But not a "Rolleiflex" worth! I told him he could get more for it on eBay but he insisted. My initial impression was how heavy it was. The first thing I did was send it to Harry Fleenor - shutter sounded ok, but I wanted to give it the "full Fleenor". Turned out I don't like that the self-timer was left cocked after every shot, that didn't sound like a good idea. So at the end of a day of shooting I fire the self-timer. The Cord's self-timer is only cocked when called upon. And I can count on one hand the number of times I've used that feature. And oddly perhaps, I prefer the Cord's "cock and shoot" two-step. Like you, I don't mind that at all.</p>

<p>Harry did a great job, per his reputation. I used a Photoplug to test the shutter upon return and all speeds were either spot on or at most a third stop off. The meter was not repairable, he said, so I asked him to remove that. Then there was postage... and a strap, etc, etc. It had a 35mm adapter on it and I asked him to remove that. So I've got about $800 in it, and I'm sure I could get that back. But your advice not to ever sell a Rollei of any kind is well taken. And I've got two Rolleicord IV's. Am inclined to sell the Flex someday and get a nice Rolleicord V. But I don't want to come down with a case "GAS", Gear Acquisition Syndrome!</p>

<p>Thanks for the Rollei therapy session!</p>

<p>Paul</p>

<p>(Are you familiar with the Photoplug? If not, see the website (in Germany, but in English): www.photoplug.de)</p>

[PaulWhiting]

<p>Brett,</p>

<p>What was I thinking? I have a Rollei IV and it <em>has</em> no self-timer. The V, Va, Vb do but not the IV. That's fine by me - simplicity reigns!</p>

<p>Paul</p>

[PaulWhiting]

<p>Brett,</p>

<p>I hope you're still subscribing to this thread! And I thank you for it, you really nailed down the issue clearly for me. But contrary to your advice, and I may regret this, I'm thinking of selling that Rolleiflex 3.5E (Xenotar). It's still within the 6 month guarantee from Harry (although I know the guarantee doesn't transfer to a new owner), and it's truly in fine shape. I should get my money out of it. Like you, I've started with 'Cords and have always been curious about the 'Flex.</p>

<p>Another issue, which you didn't mention so maybe it's not a big deal, is that when you turn the crank to advance the film, cock the shutter, and take the picture, the self-timer stays cocked. I've always had the belief you're not supposed to leave a shutter cocked - I should think the same concern would apply to a self-timer. I don't shoot color so don't need a second body. However, I have a confession: I have two 'Cord IV's, both in excellent shape. Nice to have a backup. Finally, I've got a pretty full complement of Bayonet I filters and lenshoods. I'd have to start all over again with Bayonet II's.</p>

<p>But the main issue is that I truly like the simplicity and light weight of the 'Cord. And to be honest I never noticed the lack of sharpness in the corners. 'Course, I don't think I've ever shot at 4 or 3.5!</p>

<p>Thanks again,</p>

<p>Paul</p>

<p> </p>