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Lens question


blperk

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<p>I'm looking to upgrade from my Rebel T3 to a more "serious" camera, and I'm thinking about the 6D unless I find a great deal on a refurbished 5D. My question is, I currently have these lenses:<br>

EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM <br>

EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS <br>

Are these compatible with the 5D or 6D? I'd like to upgrade to full frame, but the budget isn't there to replace all my lenses, too. If not, what are suggested bodies to upgrade to? I do mostly architecture and landscape photography. Thanks in advance.</p>

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<p>In addition, B&H Photo has some killer deals on the 5D Mk III right now, which is a "serious professional" camera. The 5D Mk IV is expected soon, so the 5D Mk III is discounted. You can even get a lens that will work on a full-frame camera included in the deal. Here's an example that includes a lens and a large photo printer, but there are cheaper options:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1129622-REG/canon_eos_5d_mark_iii.html">www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1129622-REG/canon_eos_5d_mark_iii.html</a></p>

 

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<p>As mentioned no EF-S Lens will mount to a "Full Frame" camera - the Lens Mounts are different.</p>

<p>*</p>

<p>It would be a good idea to think about and then notate what you want to achieve, that you cannot achieve now.</p>

<p>The T3 (1100D) is a basic model, but, outlining its deficiencies in terms of <strong><em>your outputs which you cannot achieve</em></strong> will allow for better and more targeted advice.</p>

<p>For example, on viewing your portfolio here, there seems to be little need for High ISO capacity as the Subjects are static and mostly all of the scenes are not affected by wind; 10 mm is reasonably wide on APS-C camera; there seems to be little need for a very large maximum aperture for shallow DoF; perhaps the money might be better spent on a good tripod and head - I have no idea you might already have those - but just using that as example of how to assess what you require based upon what you do and want to achieve.</p>

<p>WW</p>

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<p>The Nikon DX lenses will mount on full frame cameras, film or digital. If you get a circle instead of a rectangle, that is your choice. </p>

<p>I wonder, can you mount an EF-S lens on a teleconverter, and mount that on a full frame camera?<br>

Since the teleconverter uses only the center part of the image, it should work.</p>

<p>Some older EF lenses are available used for very reasonable prices. Those could be used with a full frame DSLR.</p>

-- glen

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<blockquote>

<p>I wonder, can you mount an EF-S lens on a teleconverter</p>

</blockquote>

<p>As far as I know, none (either Canon or third party) is made with an EF-S Mount on the female end (where the lens attaches).</p>

<p>On a similar topic, none (either Canon or third party) is made with an EF-S Mount on the male end - the end which attaches top the Camera - but that's no big deal because all EOS Cameras have an EF Mount.</p>

<p>BTW, the two (2) <strong>MkII</strong> Version Canon EF Extension Tubes have both an EF-S and an EF Mount on the female end, thus allowing all EOS Series lenses to attach (i.e. both EF-S and EF Mount Lenses). The original Canon EF Extension Tubes only have an EF Mount on the female end. There are quite a few third party Tubes with an EF-S Mount and EF Mount on the female end,</p>

<p>For clarity and context of the meaning of the above information: with reference to the Opening Post, my view is <strong>using tele-converters or extension tubes is a cumbersome and not a cost effective workaround and I do not advise it.</strong></p>

<p>WW</p>

 

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The 6D is about $1000 less than the 5D3. A 6D would serve extremely well for landscape and architecture.

If you did sports photography than the 5D3 would make more sense. For the type of work you want the

camera for, the 6D would be just as good as the 5D3, lighter and more compact, in addition to being

cheaper.

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<p>You don't say what you'll shoot, but based on the lenses that you have, an EF 24-105mm f/4L IS will be a great upgrade.</p>

<p>The 7D MkII is an excellent body that will accept your lenses; however, it makes no sense to get a better body and stick with sub-par lenses. You won't really gain much.</p>

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<p>Thank you all for your responses. I haven't updated my work on here in a while, but I shoot mainly buildings, especially abandoned ones, and landscapes, so I do have the occasional need for high ISO shots. I agree with the assessment of the lenses, but I currently have an old entry-level model, so I do think an upgrade will help. Lens upgrade would likely be next. I'm investigating the 5D, 6D and 7D now. They seem like good options. </p>
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<blockquote>

<p><strong>I do think an upgrade [of camera body] will help</strong>.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks for the feedback.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I do mostly <strong>architecture</strong> and <strong>landscape photography</strong>. . . I shoot <strong>mainly buildings, especially abandoned</strong> ones, and landscapes, so I do have the occasional need for high ISO shots. . <strong>. I do think an upgrade will help</strong>. Lens upgrade would likely be next. I'm <strong>investigating the 5D, 6D and 7D</strong> now. They seem like good options.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>If you choose to change formats, I think that if you choose to buy second hand a 5DMkII would be much better than a 5D. And I also think that if you are buying a new camera the best value for money choice would be a 6D.</p>

<p>The 6D is often sold as a “kit” with the 24 to 105F/4L IS as a standard zoom lens – that would be a deal to investigate.</p>

<p>If you choose to keep to the APS-C format, personally I would not buy a second hand 7D, but rather a new 7DMkII or a new 70D. the 70D price might drop with the pending release of the 80D: and I suggest that you investigate an 80D too.</p>

<p>In various areas Canon offer “refurbished” cameras with a warrantee, I suggest that you investigate that.</p>

<p>Thinking long term about the type of Subject matter you like to photograph, I would strongly tend to move to "full frame", the main reason being the leverage that the larger format provides with the selection of very good quality wide Angle Lenses and also the TS-E Lenses.</p>

<p>WW</p>

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<p>If you can afford a 6D, you can also afford a 5D + a 24-105/4L IS (or a couple of primes) ... As old as the 5D is, it is still as capable as it was when it was a mainstay of pro shooters - while it is not as good as a 5D2 or the 6D, it <em>is </em>very capable - especially for that subject matter. With a lens, it is far far more capable than even a 6D without. </p>
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<p>What do you think is wrong with what you've got? Unless you plan on handholding a lot of shots at high isos, a APS-C body should offer you the same image quality as a FF one (if the mp count is the same). And on a tripod at the lowest iso I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference. </p>

<p>If you think there's something wrong with your present resolution or sharpness, I'd suspect your current lens lineup (which is decent, but not up to professional standards) more than your body. My suggestion is to first buy professional grade lenses and see how they work on your T3 before worrying about replacing it. </p>

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<p>Good as the 5D is, the 6D, the 5D2 and the 5D3 are much better, particularly in low light. Also, the AF systems are way ahead of the 5D, particularly with the 5D3. If money is a big issue, look for a used 6D with the 24-105mm "kit".</p>

<p>Sell all your old stuff for what you can get and consider adding a used ultra-wide. I've been using an EF 15mm f/2.8 diagonal fisheye and de-fishing it with software. I'm just now getting the budget to consider upgrading to the rectilinear 14mm f/2.8L or the 11-24mm f/4L, both of which are very expensive, but very good. The 15mm was $600 used and the 14mm and 11-24mm are $2000 and $3000, respectively. With ultra-wides, you deal with distortion or pay lots of money for distortion-free glass. Speaking of money, the 17mm tilt-shift is one of the ultimate tools for architecture, but also hanging from the money-tree.</p>

<p>The ultra-wides may be a future thing for you, as it has been at one time for most of us, but rest assured that the 24-105mm is an excellent tool for the shooting you've proposed. A good, sturdy tripod will allow low ISOs and high dynamic range.</p>

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<p>I too have found the EF15/2.8 a very useful lens. I have had mine for several years and occasionally I use a de-fish Post Production Program.</p>

<p><a href="/photodb/folder?folder_id=944719">This might be useful to give you an idea of the width of view that is possible using the 15/2.8 both with APC-C and 135 Format Cameras. Also there is a quick/rough example of the scene de-fished. </a>It is an Eight Lane 50mtr Olympic Standard Pool: the camera was about 20mtrs from the pool edge, four rows of seating high held at eye level.</p>

<p>The F/2.8 is quite fast for indoor work (in available light) and also quite usable apropos image quality for many purposes - though not for Gallery Display/Competition Prints.</p>

<p>WW</p>

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  • 3 weeks later...

<blockquote>

<p><strong>question:</strong> I wonder, can you mount an EF-S lens on a teleconverter</p>

</blockquote>

 

<blockquote>

<p><strong>response:</strong> As far as I know, none (either Canon or third party) is made with an EF-S Mount on the female end (where the lens attaches).<br>

<strong> </strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p><strong>UPDATED INFORMATION:</strong><br>

<a href="http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2015/07/13/kenko-releases-1.4x-and-2.0x-teleconverters-for-canon-ef-ef-s-lenses" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Kenko has developed both a x1.4 and also a x2.0 Tele-converter with both "EF" and "EF-S" Female Mounts.</a><br /> <a href="http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2015/07/13/kenko-releases-1.4x-and-2.0x-teleconverters-for-canon-ef-ef-s-lenses" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">These tele-converters were released for sale in the latter half of 2015.</a><br>

<strong> </strong><br>

Note that there are links to the Kenko Site in the link I have provided. One is a link to a <strong>pdf file</strong> which lists <strong>compatible Lenses and Cameras</strong>.</p>

<p>WW</p>

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