Group Shots

[donna1459]

<p>I will be taking photos of a kids baseball team next week, group pics. There are about 15 kids per team. I have a 50mm 1.8 and also the 40mm pancake lens. Which would be better? They will be on the field and I have access. The lighting will be good, so that's not an issue. Thanks in advance.</p><div></div>

[donna1459]

<p>This image was taken with a 100mm 2.0 prime. I had to move quite a ways back and was just uncomfortable so far back. People walk in front of you, etc.....cause they don't know you are there!</p>

[Robin Smith]

<p>Doesn't matter much, but I'd pick the 50mm. The perspective is slightly better if you have the room.</p>

[brett_w.]

<p>I would also choose the 50mm </p>

 

[dcstep]

<p>Be sure to stop down to f/8 or f/11 and check you Depth Of Field. The DOF on that sample you posted was way too shallow and the second row was OOF. I'll assume that you're using a crop-sensor body, since you didn't mention this important criteria. In that case, I think that the 40mm pancake will have the best perspective for a large group; however, it hardly matters. Just don't shoot either lens wide open for a group shot.</p>

<p>50mm is the "preferred" choice for full-frame, not crop sensor. For individual portraits, the 50mm would be preferred for either a crop-sensor or full-frame body.</p>

<p>Don't be afraid to put you ISO up at 400 or 800 to keep the shutter speed up. The kids will not be still.</p>

[savagesax]

You really need to use a flash set at FULL power. The baseball caps WILL cause shade under the foreheads and dead

eyes. The lighting changes by the minute sometimes. Pose everyone correctly with the caps on, the first 7 or 8 kids kneeling the others standing, the coaches on each side standing. The center kids should have 2 bats crossing each other in an X. All of the kids should be wearing glove or not wearing gloves. It's actually kind of formal.

[Mark Keefer]

<p>Looks like you are using a full frame, 6D. The 40mm will give you wider shots so you can be a little closer to the group. The difference is not going to be dramatic so I would look at which lens is sharper at the F/stop you will be using, you are doing groups so yes F/8 should be pretty safe to get the group sharp, look at reviews comparing the lenses, check over all sharpness, sharpness center to edges, chromatic aberration. Different brand and model lenses all have their pros and cons. Tons of YouTube comparison videos and articles on the web.</p>

<p>Of course you own the lenses, so you can try them both. Which lens gives you the images you like when shooting under those conditions.</p>

<p>Shooting outdoors on a bright day with people wearing ball caps, some fill flash might be nice to help with dynamic range issues (bright to shadow), remember hi-speed sync flash. On an overcast day a little fill flash still can't hurt and will help with the shadow under the ball caps.<br /> 40 mm will allow you to be closer so an external flash on the camera will be closer too, so your flash will give a little more light on your subjects.</p>

<p>Best thing is to take both out with a flash and practice a bit. See which performs better. Some practice before the big shoot helps you be familiar with what you are doing and perform more like a pro and get the best shots possible.</p>

<p>Happy shooting</p>

[William Michael]

<p>To answer your question, either lens will be suitable and neither will be appreciably better than the other - if there is anything to choose between the two lenses - if you have a LENS HOOD for one and not the other, then I would use the lens which has a lens hood.</p>

<p>*</p>

<p>On other matters -<br>

It does appear that you used an EOS 6D for the sample image that you posted.<br>

As already mentioned the DoF is too shallow which results in out of focus Subjects. This is because the 100mm lens was set at F/2. Use an Aperture closer to the middle, for example around F/8. <br>

Also some Subjects appear to exhibit Blur due to Subject Movement. This is because the Shutter speed was 1/200s and that Shutter Speed is often too slow for active and younger Subjects especially when they are in Group Portraits. Use a faster Shutter Speed, for example around 1/500s.<br>

As already mentioned by David, the bottom line is: do not be afraid to bump the ISO to get a suitable Aperture and Shutter Speed.</p>

<p>*</p>

<p>Just a note on using one 'Speedlite" for <strong>Flash as Fill</strong> in SUNLIGHT and OPEN SHADE:<br>

A single Flash will have little impact if it (the Speedlite) is situated too far away from the Subjects (technically known as the "Maximum Flash Working Distance").<br>

A basic Rule of Thumb is: the most powerful Speedlite needs to be within about 4 mtrs (12ft~15ft) of the Subjects to be used for Flash Fill in Sunlight.<br>

The point relevant to this conversation is - if you are using an <strong>EOS 6D</strong> and a <strong>40mm</strong> Lens for a <strong>Group of 15 Subjects</strong> arranged and framed similarly to the sample shot that you provided, <strong>you'll be about 5~6mtrs from the Group</strong> and therefore if the Flash is Camera Mounted - it will be next to useless.<br>

Another basic Rule of Thumb - with Canon Gear - initiating <strong>High Speed Sync</strong> (HSS) allow for the Flash's Maximum Working Distance to be reduced initially by about 30% and then further reduced as the Shutter Speed is increased. </p>

<p>WW</p>

[savagesax]

Actually full power may be wrong. Maybe 3/4's power, depending on the distance and how hard the shadows are under the

ball caps, and the time of day. Shade, hard sun, all of that. So take a few test shots. I wouldn't use a flash on program

mode or auto mode. You want the flash to be consistent on every shot, set the camera to manual as well. This way you

won't ever have to think when doing all of the assorted groups. Set the shutter speed to it's highest sync. 250th? Then set

your F-stop to probably F11 with an ISO setting of 100, using the flash. Maybe F8 if it's a cloudy day. I've shot 1000's of

these sports teams, so my settings are pretty close. The only thing that is different from when I shot these is the power of your flash unit.

[john_r._fulton_jr.]

<p>Wait a second. If you're going to be shooting in light (overcast/shade) as your example image, for gosh sakes don't use strobe. Bob's advice on posing is great. Watch for hands in the pockets - you don't want them. NO crossed arms either. Oh - when you're done shooting the formal photograph announce you're done. Then - usually - for about a second or three everybody loosens up and laughs and it *can* be a nice moment. (So keep shooting) No guarantees however. Good luck with your shoot.</p>

[savagesax]

Good advice John, getting the kids to relax. The hardest groups for me were adult hockey teams, because the photos had

to be taken after the games, due to time. Everyone looked like crap all sweaty!