Mirrorless Monday_September 21st, 2015

[Sanford]

<p>The 27mm Fuji Lens Test on XE1</p><div></div>

[Sanford]

<p>Cannery Row</p><div></div>

[Sanford]

<p>Monterey Municipal Wharf</p><div></div>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Kuriakose Mamkoottam has been a friend for forty-five years. We joined the same M.A. class in 1970.</p><div></div>

[Rich B NYC]

<p>As a NYC native I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but this was my first visit to High Line Park.</p><div></div>

[sadanand]

<p>A pair of Hibiscus </p><div></div>

[sadanand]

<p>Rose</p><div></div>

[Rich B NYC]

<p>Another one shot from High Line Park. That's the IAC building in the background, which was designed by Frank Ghery. He's designed some of the most interesting structures I've ever seen. If you're unfamiliar with his work, a quick Google will give you some idea of what he's all about.</p><div></div>

[Lou_Meluso]

<p>A Couple from the A7</p>

<p>Old Skates</p><div></div>

[Lou_Meluso]

<p>Fly on a Leaf</p><div></div>

[Edwin Barkdoll]

<p>Cotton grass seed caught on sundew. Acadia Nat Park</p><div></div>

[david_smith110]

<p><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/659/21211664718_94e9252f93_c.jpg" alt="" width="534" height="800" /></p>

<p>NEX7 • Speedbooster • Yashica ML 50/1.7</p>

<p>Louis, I like the feel and composure on <em>old skates.</em></p>

[david_smith110]

<p><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/19465173012_595dfe1650_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>a7 • FDn 50/1.4</p>

[david_smith110]

<p><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5666/19895718564_341006a846_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>a7 • FDn 50/1.4</p>

[Rich B NYC]

<p>David, Like your use of light, especially on the 2:25 shot.</p>

[chansonbleu]

<p>This is the agricultural fair season in my neck of the woods. These were taken at the "Tunbridge Worlds Fair" in Tunbridge Vermont. One of the most authentic fairs in New England. All images taken on the XE-1 with 18-55 kit lens.</p><div></div>

[chansonbleu]

<p>Singer.</p><div></div>

[chansonbleu]

<p>Worn out child.</p><div></div>

[Sanford]

<p>Steve, are you converting from color or using a B&W mode?</p>

[wgpinc]

<p>Sony A6000 / Sony 35mm 1.8</p>

<center><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18091975-md.jpg" alt="" /></center>

[mukul_dube]

<p>I like your first, David. Will you please tell me what the "speed booster" does.</p>

[david_smith110]

<p><strong>Richard</strong>, glad you liked the lighting on that one. It was a corn dog vendor at the Forth of July celebrations a few months back. It was late a night and I was wandering around where the food stands were when I notice the amazing light centered around the opening in the tent of the corn dog stand. I stood there for probably ten minutes or more just snapping away as scenes presented themselves. If you go just a little back in my flickr stream you can see some others for that night. https://www.flickr.com/photos/8539414@N07/</p>

<p><strong>Mukul</strong>, a speedbooster is a device released a while back for apsc mirrorless cameras. It is basically a more advanced adapter designed to work with one type of old legacy lens. In my case, I bought the Contax/Yashica Speedbooster for Sony E mount. Instead of being just an empty adapter it has a precision made and tested 4 element, multicoated lens inside. For all pratical purposed it does everything a teleconverter does but in reverse. The speedbooster takes the entire full frame image that your legacy lens is projecting and then squeezes it down to the size of the apsc sensor. So you can sorta say it is a focal reducer. It sounds wonky, but it works. Brian Caldwell, a noted lens designer, worked with Metabones to release the original product.</p>

<p>Because of the way physics work there are some added benefits to using a speedbooster.<br /> 1. It basically does away with the crop factor for apsc cameras, turning them into full frames<br /> 2. Your lenses become one stop faster because more light is being crammed into the same area, and you also get a true narrowing of the DOF.<br /> 3. Any imperfections in the lens are reduced since again you are in effect shrinking the image down.</p>

<p>I know this sounds like voodoo black magic, but it actually works as advertised. You should look up more info on the Metabones website. They make all kinds of speedboosters for different legacy lenses. You may also check out my SB folder on flickr here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/8539414@N07/albums/72157633126249795</p>

<p>A note of caution, there were several copy cat devices that came out after the Speedbooster was released, such as the Lens Turbo. They do the same thing, but they just copied the concept whereas Metabones and Brian Caldwell put in a lot of R/D on their product. If you ever want to buy one I suggest getting an original SB from Metabones. Hope this helps.</p>

[chansonbleu]

<p>Sanford, I convert the color image. Have not tried shooting in monochrome mode. Think I read somewhere that converting gives one greater control, or more info in the file. I guess I just like having the choice of color or b&w on a given image.</p>

<p>Have you shot the XE-1 in monochrome mode?</p><div></div>

[Sanford]

<p>Steve, about half my B&W's are converted and half in the B&W mode with the simulated red filter. I think using the B&W mode, and Fuji has a good one, can put you into a B&W frame of mind or whatever. </p><div></div>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Thank you, David. I think I get the general idea. Difficult to believe, though, that the introduction of additional elements in the path of light does not adversely affect images.</p>