Hasselblad Viewfinders

[george_doumani]

<p>I recently picked up a pristine 503CW + 80mm Planar CFE and I am struggling to focus it accurately. It has the standard view finder on it with a split prism screen in it. I find that looking down at my subject simply very hard to see when the split lines up accurately. Combine this with the "back the front" nature of the viewfinder and I am totally baffled.</p>

<p>I am considering in investing in a PME prism. Preferably one at a 45 degree angle. Can anyone let me know if this has increase focusing accuracy for them? Also if the split screen is actually compatible with a PME prism or do I need to invest in a matt screen?</p>

<p>I plan to use my Blad for "slow photography" out in the field and for portraiture work. I would like to use it both handheld and tripod mounted. In terms of ergonomics I do realise the prism adds considerably to the weight of the system but if that is offset by achieving critical focus than I am sold. </p>

 

[ethan_pines]

<p>I went through a few viewfinders before landing on what is by far my favorite: the HM2 chimney viewfinder. It has a higher magnification than the prisms. The magnification is slightly lower than the standard flip-up magnifying glass in the waist-level viewer, but that standard viewer only provides a clear view of the <em>center</em> of the frame when the magnifier is flipped up. With the HM2 finder, you have a clear view across the whole frame, so you can focus on something off center without recomposing. <br>

The HM2 is also light and won't add any noticeable weight to the body. It does not have a meter though, if that matters to you. Some of the prisms have meters. <br>

The view in the HM2 is reversed right to left (as you have now), but you'll get used to that quite quickly. It becomes second nature, no problem. You'll keep your current screen. By the way, I never use the split lines unless I'm focusing on something like a vertical pole or another vertical line. For people and virtually everything else, I just focus until the image is at its sharpest on the ground glass. <br>

Note that, if you get one, on reflex bodies, the eyecup at the top should be turned counterclockwise all the way. </p>

[george_doumani]

<p>Thanks so much for the thorough response Ethan. I'll check the HM2 out.</p>

<p>Metering would be nice although it's not a deal breaker for me. As far as the reversed view goes... I know I'll need to get used to it but my Hasselblad will definitely not be my daily carry around so that may take some time. Have you ever used a PME (the original model without metering)? I can get one for a reasonable price at my local store.</p>

[iangillett]

<p>Ethan - the standard finder provides a magnified view of the <em>whole</em> frame as you put the camera up to your eye when focussing.<br>

George - you will not need to change your focussing screen. I have the standard screen in my camera and use both the split-image and the microprism areas when focussing depending on subject matter (as well as checking the ground glass outer area). I also have both 45- and 90-degree PME finders. I started with the 45-degree prism and found that comfortable to work with although you will get a slightly higher viewpoint with the 90-degree prism, particularly if handholding. However, I do recommend that you try out how the camera feels in the hand if you are using it hand held as it may be a little awkward fitting your hands around the camera and operating the shutter release. The 45-degree prism is more comfortable to use when you have the power winder attached, although this does make the camera quite large and heavy! I have an early digital back (CFV 16) and that can only be used with the 45-degree prism. The newest back (the CFV 50) can also be used with the 90-degree prism as Hasselblad have modified the attachment mechanism.<br>

Both of my prisms are PMEs and I do use the metering function. I assume that you are aware there is no electronic connection between the camera and the prism and you will need to set the open aperture of your lens (e.g. f2.8, f3.5) and the film speed on your prism manually, and will have to transfer the meter reading to the camera before shooting. The PME meters also have an incident light function which can be used either on camera or as if you were using a separate meter.<br>

Good luck with your decision.</p>

[jmlphotography]

<p>I have a chimney finder, prism and a power winder. They're nice but add weight and bulk. I don't use the winder at all. I'll sometimes use the prism on a tripod. I really prefer the WLF and manual crank for walking around. I don't think the prism adds focusing accuracy, but it might make focusing easier for you. However, I'd practice a little with the WLF to see if that helps before investing in a prism or HM2.<br>

Good luck!</p>

[george_doumani]

<p>thanks both Ian and J LaRocco.</p>

<p>@Ian. I think I need to try things out in my hands and see what actually works for me. Maybe it's just a question of getting used to the system. I am yet to get a roll processed so once I see how accurate my focusing has been with the WLF I will be better able to assess what actually works for me. I am aware that the PME Prism is not electronically coupled to the body.</p>

<p>@J Larocco. I need to practice. Absolutely! Too many years of "liveview" with 10x magnification has made me lazy in terms of technique. </p>

[Robin Smith]

<p>Personally I found adding a 45 degree prism transformed the use from being a pain into being a pleasure. Focusing was much improved and the reversed image is gone, making it much easier to track moving objects. The chimney finder is great and light, but it is very tall and you still have the reversed image.</p>

[george_doumani]

<p>thanks Robin. I need to try it out.</p>

<p>Can anyone suggest anything that can improve focusing accuracy? I currently have the split screen installed. I find that if no vertical line is present focus work is more a guess rather than a science. Is the matt screen any easier to focus for example?</p>

[chip_chipowski]

<p>George - I have never liked split prism screens. I just recently got a Mamiya M645, which came with one of those screens. I changed it out for a plain screen and I greatly prefer it. I think the split prism is good for critical focus, but it gets in my way during quick, hand held shooting. Especially with the large finder of MF, I prefer a plain screen. </p>

[george_doumani]

<p>@Chip. Thanks for the input. I am actually trying to use the Blad for more "slow" photography (tripod mounted) as opposed to handheld stuff although it would be nice to do both. I think I may need to test out a matt screen to see the difference for myself. I am very fussy when it comes to critical focus.</p>

[Robin Smith]

<p>I should qualify my response. The flip up magnifier is more accurate, but when flipped up you can't see the image as a whole. The 45 degree prisms are not so accurate, but are a good medium course between focusing accuracy and image framing. I am like Chip - I don't particularly like split screens much either, but I found the microprism ring of the accu-matte screen quite good.</p>