Using soft box and/or umbrella on-site

[rnelson]

<p>Not specifically a wedding or event question, though it could be...</p>

<p>I'm beginning to shoot family portraits and engagement photos on the beach. I suspect it won't be long before I'm shooting events on the beach too, as I live in FL, and the beach is a popular location for weddings and other events.</p>

<p>I am using (for now) one off camera flash (speed light) with a 2x2 portable soft box (a-la Strobist). I would also like to use umbrellas. My problem... wind. I can usually anchor the stand successfully using bricks in a sand bag, but the SB just doesn't stay put on windy days. <br>

<br>

For a few shoots I have been fortunate to have my partner accompany me, to either hand hold a SB, or to stabilize a stand-mounted SB. This isn't always going to practical.</p>

<p>Full disclosure - I'm using a budget light stand and accessories to hold my SB. I'm sure I'll need to drop some money on high end accessories, but if so... what kind?</p>

<p>I see myself wanting to use a second light source, and getting battery packs for my alien bees, or maybe even upgrading to one of newer portable lighting systems down the road.<br>

<br>

Of course, not everything I shoot is on a beach, but outdoor events are common in the southern regions.<br>

<br>

As always, any and all advice on this topic would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>Thank you,</p>

<p>Randy -</p>

<p> </p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>Randy,<br>

Short answer is, You should have someone with you at all times to hold your second light from blowing away. This can happen to any light modifier cheap or high end. That said the umbrellla is the last choice for outdoor use. The soft box comes in second and the beauty dish comes in first. The safest is no light modifier on your strobe, but what fun is that. Hire an assistant to help you.</p>

[Dave Gardner]

<p>I have to agree with Michael...using a assistant has so many benefits. The shoot moves quicker and your focus is on the subject. It's also better to travel light and fast...IMHO.</p>

<p>Other than that...they do make stands that are harder to knock over...but you would need an assistant to carry them anyway.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>A heavy stand like a C-stand is probably the best for outdoor work. Not only does it have more weight to it, but the horizontal alignment of the leg pieces makes it easier to anchor down with sand bags. Movie crews use them outdoors all the time. But like Dave says you're going to need an assistant to carry them around.</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>C stands are not a practical solution for the senario the OP is asking about. Most Movie companies use Roller stands, combo stands and beefy baby's. C stands would be used to hold cutters, flags ect. Not lighting. <br>

Table top commercial photographers use C-stands mostly. <br>

I have C stands myself and I would never ever ever even consider taking them on location out doors. There are too many other solutions that are a better choice. My assistant would be very upset with me if I did. <br>

C- stands are cool and look nice but keep them in the studio.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>I shoot in Florida during the winters (Palm Harbor near Clearwater Beach on the Gulf coast). Where in Florida are you?</p>

<p>I've found that the most prevalent Wedding/Event situation is brutal ambient unless shooting a sunset or just after sunset. They don't call it the sunshine state for nothing!</p>

<p>Weddings especially have time-lines that place you in less than ideal lighting situations.</p>

<p>So, while Michael is right when he says "<em>where's the fun in using no modifier</em>", the fact is that diffusion modifiers like an umbrella or soft-box are simply robbing light output, often with less effect on the quality of light than one would hope for.</p>

<p>Most of the time, the sun is the key light and strobes are used for fill and accent. Speed-lights are too anemic against many common Florida sun situations, especially when constrained by 1/250 shutter speed sync, or slower. </p>

<p>So, contrary to conventional thinking, modifiers for strobes that increase output, or focus output more efficiently, are often more useful. In the case of your Alien Bees, PCB makes a number of inexpensive reflectors designed to accomplish this task ... from their Omni 18", 30 degree reflector, to the 22" high output 130 Degree Beauty Dish in silver or white, to the 11" long throw polished reflector that allows you to shoot an isolated subject on a wide sunset beach.</p>

<p>Personally, I tend to use an Elinchrom 27" and 39" Rotalux Deep Octa which open and close easily for transport. This modifier acts like a Magnum reflector with the inner and outer diffusors removed when I'm fighting the sun ... but then can be used with the diffusion panels for closer portrait work in less brutal sun. Speed-rings for most all brands of strobes are available. I use them on Profoto B1 and B2 lights.</p>

<p>I do not use stands for mobile location work. Like others suggest, I work with an assistant using a mobile manual boom arm (AKA a "Painter's Pole"). I even converted a light weight mono-pod into a boom arm which was much more rigid than many portable boom arms. </p>

<p>BTW, here's our solution to carrying gear on location ... big fat tires for the beach : -)</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/850230-REG/Eckla_55550_Beach_Rolly_Gear_Cart.html</p>

<p>Hope this helps.</p>

<p>- Marc</p>

<p> </p>

[michaelmowery]

Marc can you post some shots taken in

the Florida sun using your B2. Do you

still have or use your acuteb 600?

[rnelson]

Thanks all. I strongly suspected that using an assistant for off camera lighting sessions, particularly on a beach, was an

industry standard necessity.

 

I am on Florida's Treasure Coast. When I moved here from the northeast several years ago I too was struggling with the

massive amount of ambient light and glare. I have been learning how to work in those conditions and it has been tricky.

Unless I am shooting at golden hours, I find a speed light with any modifier is largely ineffective in many situations, which

is forcing me to consider the vagabond battery system for my alien bees or another similar system (maybe with TTL

capabilities.

 

The beach is an extremely popular location for shooting paid work, so it has become obvious that I need to master

shooting in this environment.

 

Tha rolling cart with big wheels looks like a good idea for moving gear to and from the beach or other locations. I am

thinking of making my own travel case using a hard shell tool box retrofitted with inflatable wheels. Got caught in a

torrential downpour last week shooting a sunrise family portrait. It would have been nice to quickly dump everything into a

a big bin and close the lid! Also, I could lock the lid, which would make it difficult for anyone to steal gear.

 

Thanks for the ideas regarding various modifiers.

 

Randy

[bob_bill]

<p>Marc. here's my approach at Honeymoon beach and it just rolls over the deeper sand at Clearwater Beach. The cases contain 3 lights, battery, reflectors, and camera bag. Thanks to Ralph Oshiro for the recommendation. </p><div></div>

[rnelson]

<p>I have decided to buy whatever I need to adapt my large, heavy duty Manfrotto tripod into a light stand. That stand combined with a sand bag weight would make a very solid tripod in the field - only up to a certain hight though. I also own a good mono pod, and as Marc suggested, I'll buy a conversion for that as well. </p>

<p>Bob - Does the cart come standard with big wheels? What brand/model? Nice travel setup.</p>

[joe_morris2]

Hi,

Just use a bare flash on a stand. With the lighting conditions you describe you can get away without modifiers. That's all I

use when windy.

[bob_bill]

<p> The cart has 7" wide air filled tires that only run about 5 lbs pressure. It floats over soft deep sand. I tried an off road solid tired ez roller that I use in studio as a studio cart, but it dug in even on packed sand. This cart can also be used to haul an ice chest, chairs and umbrella for those beach days. I'm with Mike, I don't use c stands on the beach and definitely not roller stands. Not sure about a tripod for a light stand because of the limited height. I agree with Marc, one or more of the diffuser panels can be removed for more power. Or stacking lights. That Octadome as well as the 5 footer, takes silver or gold liners for more efficiency and the gold adds some warmth for the golden hour. I also have some empty sandbags in the cases, as Marc probably knows some of our beaches have patches of wonderful clean white 3" rocks that quickly fill and empty. Coming from a part of CA where there isn't a cloud in the sky for 7-8 months, I often don't find it as bright here as I am used to. The silver lining is beautiful clouds. The tarp on top goes down as a staging location and helps keep sand out. If the rain comes, can use it to cover gear. Like alton Brown of good eats, I like multi-taskers. Here's the link: http://www.wheeleez.com/beachcart-folding.php</p>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>If you are shooting on beaches, why not just use available light? Shoot early morning, late afternoon for the soft light. <br>

It's easier to manage than umbrellas and allows for faster (You will need an assistant for sure to make it safe.)<br>

I do around 40 to 50 beach shoots a year, I just use ambient. If you want to get clever, get a large reflector and learn how to use it. Very useful.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>Of course, shooting at "golden hour" is always the best solution Ian ... unfortunately, far to often, wedding schedules don't allow that ideal scenario ... group shots of the wedding party, friends, family, and Bridal Portraits following the ceremony while guest travel to the reception is the norm. Sometime from 12 to 3PM is more frequent.</p>

<p>Florida isn't the only place I use lighting ... when in Michigan, I've done a ton of stuff on one of the Great Lakes or another. </p>

<p>Then there are the surprise shots requested by a VIP at a wedding ... "can we get a shot of these 25 people outside?" ... after the sun has gone down ...</p>

<p>I do NOT go to any wedding anymore without lighting ... even if it just sits in the vehicle and is never needed ... because it seems every time I don't ... it is.<br>

- Marc</p>

<p> </p>

[fotografz]

<p>Love that cart Bob!</p>

<p>- Marc</p>

[fotografz]

<p>Michael, I've only had the B2 for a little while now so I've yet to use it on the Florida beach because I just got down here for the Winter. 250W/s may not cut it when it is Nuclear on the beach, but I use a leaf shutter camera so I can shoot up to 1/1000 sync @ full power which helps.</p>

<p>I'm taking the B2 to a little shoot today but it is inside an office building ... fits right in the camera bag.</p>

<p>Yes, I still have my Acute 600B Air Lithium pack, and have no intention of parting with it. Like the B2, the Acute B2 head is small, and the pack can be used to stabilize the stand to some degree. The B1's AIR mono-blocks are pretty top heavy in comparison.</p>

<p>The Acute B2 AIR and this new B2 make a nice combo for off-camera key and fill. </p>

<p>- Marc</p>

<p> </p>

[bob_bill]

<p>Marc, welcome back down here. One of the reasons I am considering going to the d810 or it's successor is the optimized 64 iso instead of the 200 on the d700 to help knock down exposure. One nice features of the gulf beaches over Pt. Reyes National Seashore on the Pacific is the winds are often more gentle than the up to 40 mph ones I have shot in there. Down side, they call these waves? Marc, If you would like to take a look at the cart, drop me a line and we can meet up. I have Ralph Oshiro to thank for the recommendation on cart and cases. </p>

[fotografz]

<p>I'm in Palm Harbor just north of Tampa Bob, where are you? Love to meet up and swap stories and info : -)</p>

<p> </p>

[studio460]

<p>Bob said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>"Marc. here's my approach at Honeymoon beach and it just rolls over the deeper sand at Clearwater Beach. The cases contain 3 lights, battery, reflectors, and camera bag. Thanks to Ralph Oshiro for the recommendation."</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Ha! How nice of you to credit me with the my cart recommendation! Isn't it just the bees' knees?<br /> <br /> As for location stands, I have an old <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1046658-REG/matthews_b366168_combo_aluminum_stand.html">Matthews' all-aluminum baby stand</a> with a Rocky Mountain leveling leg that I use on location (I need to buy more of these, but Matthews only makes them in black for some reason now). I just drilled-down to <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Top+Mounting_5%2f8%22+Stud&ci=5799&Ns=p_PRICE_2%7c1&N=4062040357+3804773635+4119246617">"leveling-leg" baby stands at B+H</a> and also found this budget-priced, 9.5' <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1069622-REG/kupo_ks141211_medium_kit_stand_with.html">Kupo aluminum baby stand</a> with a leveling leg for only $107 (the Matthews is $152.50). I'll have to order some and give them a try.</p>

<p>I use aluminum stands for location, and all-steel Matthews' Beefy Baby rollers in-studio. The aluminum stands are much lighter and easier to carry, but of course will flex a lot more than a steel stand. Matthews' Beefy Baby stands (non-rollers) are also useful on location since the stand's weight allows for less sand/shot-bags.</p>

<p>C-stands can also be useful on-location, assuming solid, level-ground and adequate sand/shot-bags (however, if mounting an expensive monolight, or a boom, choose a standard stand over a C-stand, since its wider leg-spread offers more stability). C-stand legs "nest" allowing you to place several stands next to each other in close proximity. Plus, they have a smaller footprint than a fully-spread baby stand (I keep a roll of yellow hazard tape handy which I apply to any protruding legs to alert passers-by). I prefer Matthews' C-stands, the ones with the slidable upper-leg, which can be used to accommodate certain un-even surfaces (e.g., a street curb or set of stairs). Avoid C-stands with spring-tensioned legs. Current-production Matthews C-stands are no longer tensioned, and are <em>much</em> easier to set-up.</p>