denny_rane Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 <p>Anybody have a schematic for the light meter in a Nikon F2.?<br> Thank You</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_momary Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 <p>One spot here ...<br> <a href="http://www.street-photo.fr/fr/images/docs/Nikon_F2_Finder_DP-1_Adjustment.pdf">http://www.street-photo.fr/fr/images/docs/Nikon_F2_Finder_DP-1_Adjustment.pdf</a></p> <p>Unsure of its accuracy, take it for what it is worth.</p> <p>Jim M.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieter Schaefer Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 <p>Is this a trick question? There's no light meter in the F2; there's only five different Photomic finders that meter - which one are you interested in?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny_rane Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 <p>Awesome.....Thank You.<br> I cannot believe how small the trimmer pots are.<br> Thanks Again Jim</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny_rane Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 <p>Dieter -<br> Which one do YOU have a schem for.?<br> Thank You</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieter Schaefer Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 <p>As it turns out only the same as in the link above. Saw a couple different ones on ebay recently.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny_rane Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 <p>Wow...I did not even think to look on Ebay.<br> I am glad Jim had this. My Amprobe DMM outs more Current/Voltage than the meter is designed for. 16 micro-amps is real small.!<br> Thanks Again...I appreciate it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 <p>Just a thought on calibration. The procedure described in Glen Walpert's article is flawed. He says to <em>focus</em> on a grey card and calibrate to that. Unfortunately, most lenses will change effective aperture when focused close enough to cover a grey card - unless you have a <em>really big</em> grey card. It also assumes that the grey card has an accurate 18% reflectance - not a given if the card is old, dirty or faded.</p> <p>My suggestion is to amend the calibration instructions and focus the lens on infinity while filling the frame with a large sheet of white copier paper. It doesn't matter if the paper is out of focus, but the loss of effective aperture in focusing close can lead to a difference of half-a-stop or more. And obviously this will have an effect on calibration accuracy.<br /> <br /> The use of white paper has the advantage that copier paper is readily available in pristine condition, has a reflectance as close to 100% Lambertian as you can get outside of a laboratory, and comes in sizes that can easily fill the frame of the camera and fill the acceptance angle of a handheld light meter. BTW, double up the paper thickness to ensure you get a true 100% reflectance. The reflectance of thinner paper can be affected by a dark background.</p> <p>If you want to compare the white paper reading to an incident meter then you simply subtract 2.5 stops from the reflected reading of the paper.</p> <p>Edit: I also think Glen's assessment of the meter sensitivity is a bit off. The battery test circuit shows 3 volts passing through a 155K variable resistor (likely 150K nominal value). That makes the meter half-scale close to 20 microamps at very minimum. It seems likely therefore that the meter movement is 50 uA full scale - a fairly common value.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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