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Light Meter


denny_rane

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<p>Just a thought on calibration. The procedure described in Glen Walpert's article is flawed. He says to <em>focus</em> on a grey card and calibrate to that. Unfortunately, most lenses will change effective aperture when focused close enough to cover a grey card - unless you have a <em>really big</em> grey card. It also assumes that the grey card has an accurate 18% reflectance - not a given if the card is old, dirty or faded.</p>

<p>My suggestion is to amend the calibration instructions and focus the lens on infinity while filling the frame with a large sheet of white copier paper. It doesn't matter if the paper is out of focus, but the loss of effective aperture in focusing close can lead to a difference of half-a-stop or more. And obviously this will have an effect on calibration accuracy.<br /> <br /> The use of white paper has the advantage that copier paper is readily available in pristine condition, has a reflectance as close to 100% Lambertian as you can get outside of a laboratory, and comes in sizes that can easily fill the frame of the camera and fill the acceptance angle of a handheld light meter. BTW, double up the paper thickness to ensure you get a true 100% reflectance. The reflectance of thinner paper can be affected by a dark background.</p>

<p>If you want to compare the white paper reading to an incident meter then you simply subtract 2.5 stops from the reflected reading of the paper.</p>

<p>Edit: I also think Glen's assessment of the meter sensitivity is a bit off. The battery test circuit shows 3 volts passing through a 155K variable resistor (likely 150K nominal value). That makes the meter half-scale close to 20 microamps at very minimum. It seems likely therefore that the meter movement is 50 uA full scale - a fairly common value.</p>

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