Jump to content

hasselbland 6*6


sam_itzhakov

Recommended Posts

Do you have the a16 back or just want one? I find the 6x6cm format far more versatile than the 6x4.5cm format.

 

 

To answer your second question about knowing where the edges of the 6x4.5cm format are:

While I think Hasselblad made an official mask! The easiest and simplest way is take a grease pencil or Sharpie pen and

mark edges of the 6x4;5 "crop" on the upper surface of the ground glass. These marks can be removed with as little

alcohol and a soft cloth. Make sure you only do this on on the smooth side not the bottom side of the groundglass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>The viewfinder is 1:1 with respect to the film size. The best way I've found to put frame lines on the screen is using a laser printer to print on transparency media, then cutting it to fit within the frame of the screen. It can be held in place with a little Scotch tape on the edges.</p>

<p>The lines are much finer that way than using a pen on the screen, and the screen isn't scratched or permanently damaged. I use a layout program (InDesign) to make the box with the frame width of 1/4 point. You could use Photoshop or even Microsoft Word. The laserjet is very close to 1:1 with respect to the layout.</p>

<p>You could use that with a 16A back and get 16 images per roll, or simply crop a 6x6 image, using the guide lines for composition, and settle for 12/roll. There is a 16V back for vertical composition, but only gets 12/roll too. Square Format was intended to allow vertical or horizontal composition without turning the camera, which is awkward at best with an Hasselblad V body. In the old days (before laser printers), I drew frame lines for 5x7 prints - the skinniest format for wedding prints. Brides do not like their elbows cut off in photos.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>A new Hasselblad Flextite ($$$) would do the job, or an used Nikon 4000 or 5000 ($$). Otherwise an Epson flatbed with a transparency adapter (lighted cover) will do okay for relatively little cost. Even with a flatbed, you are better off buying 3rd party software, like VueScan or SilverFast.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Definitely a "very nice job." The only thing between the film and sensor in a Flextite scanner is a very good Schneider process lens. The Nikon folds the optical path using mirrors to save space, but at a cost in image quality. When new, the Nikon, at $2000, cost 1/6th that of a comparable Flextite.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...