sam_itzhakov Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 <p>hello guys! <br>i buy new hasselbland 6*6 and i want to chang for 645 and i Has difficulty to understand betwen backs like 16A only 16 or 16 S and more and more...? and how can i know where is my lins on viewfinder for 645? <br>thank you :) </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett_rogers Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 <p>Well personally, I find them to be pretty interesting cameras, actually.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Do you have the a16 back or just want one? I find the 6x6cm format far more versatile than the 6x4.5cm format. To answer your second question about knowing where the edges of the 6x4.5cm format are: While I think Hasselblad made an official mask! The easiest and simplest way is take a grease pencil or Sharpie pen and mark edges of the 6x4;5 "crop" on the upper surface of the ground glass. These marks can be removed with as little alcohol and a soft cloth. Make sure you only do this on on the smooth side not the bottom side of the groundglass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 <p>The viewfinder is 1:1 with respect to the film size. The best way I've found to put frame lines on the screen is using a laser printer to print on transparency media, then cutting it to fit within the frame of the screen. It can be held in place with a little Scotch tape on the edges.</p> <p>The lines are much finer that way than using a pen on the screen, and the screen isn't scratched or permanently damaged. I use a layout program (InDesign) to make the box with the frame width of 1/4 point. You could use Photoshop or even Microsoft Word. The laserjet is very close to 1:1 with respect to the layout.</p> <p>You could use that with a 16A back and get 16 images per roll, or simply crop a 6x6 image, using the guide lines for composition, and settle for 12/roll. There is a 16V back for vertical composition, but only gets 12/roll too. Square Format was intended to allow vertical or horizontal composition without turning the camera, which is awkward at best with an Hasselblad V body. In the old days (before laser printers), I drew frame lines for 5x7 prints - the skinniest format for wedding prints. Brides do not like their elbows cut off in photos.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam_itzhakov Posted October 6, 2014 Author Share Posted October 6, 2014 <p>thank you guys !!! I really appreciate it :))<br> anyone advise me to buy a good scanner? for scan my negative? 120 mm and 35 mm? </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 <p>A new Hasselblad Flextite ($$$) would do the job, or an used Nikon 4000 or 5000 ($$). Otherwise an Epson flatbed with a transparency adapter (lighted cover) will do okay for relatively little cost. Even with a flatbed, you are better off buying 3rd party software, like VueScan or SilverFast.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielheller Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 <p>A new Hasselblad Flextight would do a "very good job"</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 <p>Definitely a "very nice job." The only thing between the film and sensor in a Flextite scanner is a very good Schneider process lens. The Nikon folds the optical path using mirrors to save space, but at a cost in image quality. When new, the Nikon, at $2000, cost 1/6th that of a comparable Flextite.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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