500EL or 503CX going digital advice please

[tom_jones20]

<p>I have the two Hassys above which I'm very attached to for tripod work etc.<br>

Would like to try digital and am almost convinced I need a Pentax 645D.<br>

Am I making a mistake to consider the 645 and would I be better off getting some digi-gear for either Hass.<br>

I like using the 500EL with the motor drive but can't seem to find a clear answer to it's suitability for a digi-back.<br>

Compared to the price I need to pay for a 645 is it worth going for a Hassy set-up, I really don't mind being tethered as I have a 9"<br>

lap-top that runs XP for the job I hope.<br>

Sorry for all the ramblings but would appreciate any advice on what to buy, and (hopefully) where to buy it.<br>

I am an enthusiastic amateur !</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>You can use any digital back that fits if it will synchronize with the front shutter contacts. The 503CW will synchronize with an Hasselblad CFV back mechanically. An extension of the shutter release arms the digital back. Theoretically, this method will work with any 500 body, but the timing may be sluggish in older bodies. Using the shutter sync is the most reliable, and gives you the ability to take time exposures without altering the back's timing. CFV backs will sync electronically with the 500 ELD body, and electronically with the focal plane shutter in a 200 body if it is modified by the factory.</p>

<p>Used CFV16 (16 MP) backs go for between $6K and $8K, and CFV50 (50 MP) backs for about $16K. The square 16MP back has a 1.5x cropping factor, so a 60 mm lens makes a nice "normal" length for routine use. While 16 MP doesn't seem like much compared to current small format offerings, the performance is still pretty impressive. There is no anti-aliasing filter, which would cut resolution by about 30%. The large pixels (16 micron) have very low noise and a full 16 bit/channel color depth. The only reason to resort to film is if you have a 40 mm lens and want a real wide angle effect. There are a number of example in my (limited) gallery, including some comparison shots.</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17890592-lg.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="700" /></p>

<p> </p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>While the CFV can be tethered to a computer and operated remotely (with a motor drive), it is nice to work untethered, with the freedom associated with a film camera. The CFV uses Sony L batteries, which come in various sizes, up to a hulking 7800 maH brick. I usually tote a couple of 5400 maH batteries, which last for several hundred exposures, or at least 8 hours driving the little cooling fan and keeping the power-hungry CCD ready to use.</p>

[ondebanks]

One correction to Edward's informative

inputs: the CFV16 back has 9 micron

pixels, not 16 micron. But while some

even older backs have 11 and 12

micron pixels, 9 micron is the canonical

"fat pixel" size and gives great results.

[tom_jones20]

<p>Very many thanks to these most helpful postings. I am a newbie here and am still reeling from all the contents.<br>

Am looking at an H20 on ebay but am informed that I would need a plate for it to fit either my 500el or the 503cx.<br>

As stated before I am just an enthusiastic amateur, prepared to spend a modest amount to explore this avenue for <br>

my Hassys and am looking really for a clear way to do this, would like to use the 500el for the motor drive facility if possible. There seem to so many different variations I could follow.<br>

The CFV 16 looks ideal for my purpose (does this work "out of the box" with my gear or would I need a back etc. I don't mind tethered working at all) or would the H20 be the way. Which is likely to hit my pocket more, the H20 or the CFV16.<br>

ps have to stop now as I feel a head-ache coming on !!</p>

<p> </p>

[ondebanks]

<blockquote>

<p>The CFV 16 looks ideal for my purpose (does this work "out of the box" with my gear or would I need a back etc. I don't mind tethered working at all) or would the H20 be the way. Which is likely to hit my pocket more, the H20 or the CFV16.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The CFV backs are newer (relatively) than the Phase One H-series backs, like the H20, and a lot more expensive (see Edward's pricing above) mainly because they are self-contained with LCD, CF card slot and battery. The H-series on the other hand must be tethered to a computer - although you say you don't mind that.</p>

<p>Note that the H-series backs were sold in several different fittings/mounts - you need to find a Hasselblad V-mount version. Not sure who told you that you need an adapter plate - you don't - you just need to get the right version in the first place. The CFV backs are already (and only) in V-mount. Any V-mount digital back slots onto your Hasselblads as-is, on just like a film back.</p>

<p>Also note that there is a large range of other suitable self-contained used backs to consider as well. The Leaf Aptus and Phase One P series range run cheaper than the CFV equivalents. The Phase One P+ series goes for about the same price as the CFV equivalents - the reason being that they added long exposure capability in the Kodak-sensored P+ backs and large high resolution sensors in the P+ Dalsa-sensored backs. Again, watch out for the different fittings and get a V-mount type.</p>

[tom_jones20]

<p>Thanks again Ray, that's cleared things a lot (I was told I'd need the plate by an ebayer selling an H20--no wonder I've been unable to find one)<br>

It would seem, for my purpose, an H20 otl. would be the one, I'll most likely be using at home and, as I said, tethering is not a problem. <br>

I feel I'm getting there now, it's a simpler job looking for V mount backs, will keep the Forum posted of my progress. </p>