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Sync Einstein 640 with a Mamiya C330 or Hasselblad 500 C/M


govi_padmavijayam

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<p>I am new to MF photography and have some experience using the Einsteins in 35mm.<br>

I own a Mamiya C330 and would like to shoot portraits at home using the Einsteins. I am looking for any suggestions and recommendations and will be grateful for any assistance.<br>

Also, a friend has a Hasselblad 500 C/M - and would like to use the lights to shoot also.<br>

Thanks and Best Regards --Govi </p>

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<p>You can use a standard sync cable connected to either the C-330 or Hassleblad lens or a wireless trigger. The connection at the camera is called a PC connector...most will tell you that this stands for <em>Prontor/Compur </em>but anyone with any experience will tell you the PC stands for <em>pretty crappy</em>. Worst design ever! I believe the Einsteins take either a household plug or a 1/4 inch phone plug. I use White Lightnings (also from Paul C. Buff) and they use a phone jack.<br>

Just make sure the sync switch on the lens is set to "X". With the sync selector set to "M" there is a delay (30ms?) meant for flash bulbs. The Hassleblad lenses also have a "V" setting, which is a self-timer.<br>

Your Mamiya and Hassleblad lenses will sync at all shutter speed unlike your 35mm SLR.<br>

JD</p>

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<p>Almost any radio trigger will do the job, as long as it's capable of plugging into the P-C socket of the Mamiya or 'Blad.</p>

<p>I don't recommend using wired cables from camera to flash. Apart from the unreliability referred to above, there's the safety issue of a trip hazard/toppling hazard from having cables dangling around the studio. In any case, perfectly serviceable trigger kits can be got for little more than the cost of a 5m P-C to Jack cable.</p>

<p>I've been using radio triggers like this: http://photoloving.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_61&product_id=136<br>

for several years now, with no problems. Very versatile and can be used to fire studio strobes and hotshoe speedlights equally easily.</p>

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<p>Belated tip - tape over the VXM lever on your lens(es), and fix in place on X. Those little beggars will find a way to move at the most inconvenient time, and then you end up with blank exposures. How such a stupid and unprofessional design lasted for so long I'll never know.</p>

<p>Some pros used to jam matchsticks in the lever, but gaffer tape does the job equally well!</p>

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<p>Absolutely nothing to it. You just plug the PC cord from the flash into the PC contact on the camera and be sure the sync is set on X as others have said. Rodeo is correct -- tape that level down and leave it there. <br /><br />Yes the PC connector is a crappy design but it is what it is. It's been around for over 50 years and photographers have gotten along just fine. And since it's the only sync connection on these two cameras (as opposed to a hotshoe), you don't have any choice but to use it.<br /><br />I really hate to see people badmouthing PC cords. Again, the design is not what it should be -- you've got the PC connector plus usually way-too-thin wires inside. But aside from the issue of tripping over them, they are the most reliable means of triggering a flash, especially with this particular setup. The reason is simple: A PC cord is just a cord. There are no electronics, no moving parts, no batteries. Yes they can short or break if not handled properly, but then you just throw them away and use another one.<br /><br />I use radio triggers every day. And on a DSLR or SLR where you can slide them into the hot shoe you sidestep the PC connector. But on these two cameras where the only sync connection is the PC connector, you have to use a PC cord. It's just running from the camera to the radio trigger instead of camera to flash. In fact, you have to have two cords because of the cord that runs from the receiver radio trigger to the flash. So rather than having one long cord that can potentially short or break, you have two shorts ones that can do the same. And in between you have two pieces of electronic circuitry that are subject to malfunction, radio inferference, wrong settings or simply dead batteries.<br /><br />Like I said, I use radio triggers. But it's for the convenience of not pulling on wires. It's not because there's anything inherently wrong with wires.</p>
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