treat_jennings Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 <p>Hi everyone,</p> <p>I did a search and BELIEVE I am not asking an already answered question...if I am I apologize...</p> <p>Anyway,</p> <p>I am realllllly excited to start shooting medium format and so I just purchased:</p> <ul> <li>Mamiya Rb67 Pro S</li> <li>Mamiya RB Pro-SD </li> <li>RB Prism Hood</li> <li>Film</li> </ul> <p>I am wondering if I will be able to begin shooting with just these items? And yes, I purchased these items with little research because I'm a little dummy =).<br /><br />If somebody could give me some insight into this topic as well as potentially recommending other pick ups then that would be great. I know I probably need a lens strap. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncox Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 <p>You need a lens, a 120 back, possibly a viewfinder and; possibly a grip unless you intend to use a tripod (you may need a tripod). There's no reason to have both the Pro S and the Pro SD there both different iterations of the same camera. I would sell or return the Pro S. <br> I would recommend a 90 or 127 lens to start out. You could get by with a 220 back but finding film for it is very difficult. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treat_jennings Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 <p>Hey John,</p> <p>Sorry for the confusion I don't know why I made such a poor post..<br /><br />I purchased:</p> <ul> <li>The RB67 PRO-S Body</li> <li>127mm 3.8</li> <li>Pro-SD BACK</li> <li>Some Kodak 120 160iso Film</li> <li>Mamiya RB Prism Finder</li> </ul> <p>My camera does not come with the waist level view finder. Also, I already own a tripod. So after saying all that, you recommend I purchase a grip?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_s Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 <p>I have the grip for my RZ, and the truth is I rarely use it. Most of the time I use the camera with the WLF on a tripod. YMMV.</p> <p>Burn a few rolls of film, and you'll know if you need to acquire anything beyond what you've already got. Tell us how you get on, and show us some of your work when you get your negs back. And welcome to photo.net.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treat_jennings Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 <p>Ok well it sounds like I shouldddddd be able to get started as soon as it arrives then...Awesome!</p> <p>Ill be sure to post some pictures and let everyone know my progress and experience with the camera. Thanks a lot fellows. See you in about a week!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etienne_w Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>Does the Mamiya have a light meter? if not, you might need one of those too.</p> <p>Light meters range from free smartphone apps (there is one called "Light Meter" on the iphone which I used for a while and quite liked) to full featured and expensive spot/incident meters and everything in between. The three main (only?) light meters manufacturers are Gossen, Kenko and Sekonic. Pro's and Con's of each kind of meter is a subject for a PhD thesis, let us know if you want us to develop more on this topic.</p> <p>Have fun shooting!<br> Etienne</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treat_jennings Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>Hey Etienne,</p> <p>I believe the mamiya does not come with a meter, the finder might but I planned on using my d600 as a meter anyway. =)</p> <p>I was mostly concerned with if the items I purchased were going to be enough to allow me to start shooting and judging by the sounds of it they may be. Now I just have to figure out a convenient place to have film developed...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_wilson1 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 I never owned one of these but I used one for years in one of the studios I worked in. You really need a good sturdy tripod. I guess you know it's really a 7x7 square camera and the back rotates so it's big and heavy. The actual action of shooting is kind of sluggish but it serves the purpose for careful composition and slower shooting. Good luck in your adventure and welcome to the board. Looking forward to some of your shots! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_502260 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>Will a Pro-SD back fit a Pro-S body properly? I do not yet have a Pro-SD. I have a working Pro, two working Pro-S cameras and a working RZ Pro. The left hand grip I have fits the Pro and Pro-S but when you put on a lens and a finder it is quite heavy. If you are left handed and a weightlifter then it could work. On any RB camera there are three things you will need to check first: Are the bellows in good condition? Are the seals on the revolving back adapter in need of replacement? Are the foam seals in the back in need of replacement? Sometimes the bellows can be taped if there is a small light leak. The seals on the revolving back adapter and the back need to be good or you will get light leaks. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_ogden Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>All RB67 backs will fit all RB bodies. There are advantages to the newer Pro-SD backs, but the older backs will fit and work just fine.<br /> I have an original RB67 Professional (first model) and have all three generations of backs.<br /> Contrary to what Dave Wilson posted, the "67" in RB67 means 6x7cm. Hence, the rotating (revolving) back. The tripod doesn't have to support the imbalance of having the camera turned for portrait orientation.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanKlein Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>Here's the manual http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_rb67_pro-s/mamiya_rb67_pro_s.htm</p> <p>Set the knob on the lens to A so the shutter inside the lens release when you "snap". If it's on M, that's manual mirror lock up and you won't release the shutter when you snap. Then it becomes a two step operation when you would use a cable release.</p> <p>I use a tripod.</p> <p>Good luck. I love my RB67.</p> Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/albums Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_watson1 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>As Bob noted, a girder-like tripod and head capable of supporting an RPG aren't really necessary with an RB67, thanks to the rotating back. Anyone who ever shifted a Pentax 6x7 from landscape to portrait knows bad things can happen when all that mass gets plopped off-axis on a tripod. The camera produces very little vibration, thanks to the leaf shuttered lenses. The mirror clattering is mainly post-exposure.<br /> <br /> I'd really try to get the newest light meter you can afford that reads incident and possibly spot. The DSLR has limits and remains just another bulky piece of gear to manage. With film and processing getting no cheaper, accurate exposure amounts to money(and face) saved--"nice shot, too bad about the exposure" will get old fast.</p> <p>Film loading will probably be awkward at first but realize you won't get any worse at it. A sacrificial 120 roll is worth it just to practice getting film in and out of the back. Try to find a lab that will scan your negs onto a cd-r at a reasonably price. DIY scanning 120 is a whole other country to explore later.</p> <p>Watch your DOF. Wide open 6x7 lenses produce very thin DOF, so be ready to shoot at f5.6-f8 max. Check the DOF scales in the manual and on the camera and lens.</p> <p>Don't lose your darkslide! It's a voyage of discovery. Have fun.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treat_jennings Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>Hey C. Watson,</p> <p>A few questions for you...<br> I don't really plan on buying a light meter any time soon. I know I will have to suck it up and will probably do that in a few months though. That being said...I'm still going to use my camera as a meter...I'm thinking that center weighted meter with my camera focused directly on my most important spot (eg, right side of face) will result in a fairly good metering don't you think?</p> <p>Also, Do darkslides typically come with the camera back or not really? Because if not then I will not have one. Its possible to just live without it if you only plan on using one back though right?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_wilson1 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 The film back is 6x7. The camera housing and opening is square 7x7. The Bronica GS-1 was a true 6x7 with removable back and you would have to flip the whole camera for horiz and vert. The RB as in the design is a 6x7 back that rotates over a 7x7 opening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_watson1 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>Whether you get a handheld meter really depends on how strong the film undertow proves to be. Sure, use the dslr for now but realize that it has limits and will get fooled simply because it's a reflected light meter(homework: what's the difference between a reflected and incident light meter). No clue what you plan on pointing the Mamiya at but accurate metering is the grail and makes shooting 120 worthwhile.</p> <p>Aside from more negative real estate, film backs are what make the big Mamiya and others so easy to love. Mid-roll changes among b&w, C-41, E-6 in separate backs? No problem. No dark slide cuts you off from that. Solution? Find a new dark slide. They show up as NOS or used on eBay but you might have more luck buying an ugly/busted 220 back(220 is all but dead) for cheap just for the darkslide. If you get hooked, you'll probably be buying another 120 back, so you'll have two functioning backs. You're good for now. Shoot a roll or two and appraise the results. If your hands shake after not shooting the Mamiya for a week or so, you'll know what to do next.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treat_jennings Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 <p>HAHA,</p> <p>Well said. I will get a meter. I was kind of assuming that I would be able to take a few test shots on my d600 and get a 90-95% perfect exposure that way...its more work but I figure it would work...But I am excited to get into Medium format. I've even contemplated getting rid of some of my digital accessories to finance some more for my RB67. </p> <p>We will see how the first roll or so treats me. Thank you kindly. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondebanks Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <blockquote> <p>The film back is 6x7. The camera housing and opening is square 7x7. The Bronica GS-1 was a true 6x7 with removable back and you would have to flip the whole camera for horiz and vert. The RB as in the design is a 6x7 back that rotates over a 7x7 opening.</p> </blockquote> <p>And later RB models can take 6x8 backs over their 8x8 opening...noting that due to the always optimistically rounded-up nature of medium format mathematics, the 8 here refers to 7.6 cm rather than 8.0 cm.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondebanks Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 <blockquote> <p>If somebody could give me some insight into this topic as well as potentially recommending other pick ups then that would be great.</p> </blockquote> <p>For a bit of fun, you might also want to pick up a used Polaroid back and some instant film packs from Fuji. The RB67 uses more of the area of a "Polaroid" print than any other mainstream medium format SLR. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Bowes Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 <p>Hello everyone. Here is something that should be in any camera bag but seems hard to find these days at camera stores, if one has a camera store nearby! Go to any cosmetic department in a box store and get a blush brush, the larger the better. Makes getting dust off any lens a snap.<br /> If you are "thinking" of a meter, consider a Gossen Pilot. I am a devoted Weston V freak, but started using these meters in my Classic Manual Camera cases. Surprisingly small, simple (selenium, no batteries) and accurate, having both reflected and incident reading. $10-20 at the online auction site. Enjoy, Bill</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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