Flash gives up after several continuous shots

[gayana_grigoryan]

<p>I am using a Nikon D750 with a bolt nikon flash on wireless commander mode. I turn off the on-camera flash and use the off-camera one in M mode usually at 1/32 power. The flash works perfectly fine when I take my time with the shots, it even allows me to do continuous shots very rapidly, but if I pause and try to start again, the camera doesn't allow me to focus. I have to wait over 30s before I can start shooting again. My focus point is a single focus point, and I use it in AF-S mode. I don't understand why it takes so long to let me shoot again.<br>

I took the camera to B&H and had an expert look at it, he said it is likely the buffer but I feel like it may be something else. Does anyone else experience this when shooting? Is this a common occurrence or am I doing something wrong?</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>Just because you're telling the internal flash not to contribute to the exposure doesn't mean it's not flashing. If you're using CLS, that's how it controls the remotely slaved flash - by emitting flash pulses that tell it what to do. If you're shooting several frames in a row, quickly, the onboard flash will run down its capacitors and need to recharge. The onboard software may also be working to prevent over heating of that small embedded flash system. </p>

[gayana_grigoryan]

<p>I see, so this is expected? Is there a workaround for this? The B&H guy suggested buying a second flash unit. Do you think this will help?<br>

Why does it effect the focus? Is that the camera just giving itself time to recharge the flash?</p>

<p>Thank you for your quick reply!</p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

What does "bolt Nikon flash" mean? Is is a Nikon Speedlight or is "Bolt" a different brand?

[Matt Laur]

<p>I presumed that "bolt nikon flash" was a typo error for "built in Nikon flash" in commander mode.<br /><br />If you have the pop-up (built in) flash up, that's you telling the camera you want to use it - whether that's for light, or strictly for command purposes while using a remote flash. Since you are asserting that you want to use that built in flash for your next shot, the camera isn't going to cooperate in the shot until the flash is ready to use. The capacitors that live inside the camera (to power the flash) are by necessity very small, and are being charged by the same battery that has to run everything else (the onboard computer, the AF mechanism, etc).<br /><br />If you use a second external flash (like an SB700 or something similar) in the hot shoe, and use IT as a commander instead of the camera's native pop-up flash, it will be able to recover much more quickly. That also allows you to point the head of that commanding flash at the IR sensor of the slave, rather than at your subject - which helps with preventing reflections and eye blinks.</p>

[gayana_grigoryan]

<p>Bolt refers to the brand of flash: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/860420-REG/bolt_vx_760n_on_camera_flash.html</p>

<p>Thanks Matt, that's helpful advice. I may just buy a second flash unit then and use it in the hot shoe if that will help with this problem. I really appreciate the advice!</p>

[gayana_grigoryan]

<p>Actually now I have another question, which may sound like a rookie question. I am still a bit new to using flash so forgive me if this is silly to ask. <br>

Is there another way to fire off the external flash without using the native pop-up? Meaning would another option be to not use the wireless mode and connect the camera directly to the flash unit?</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>It depends on the remote flash. I don't know anything about that brand. But if it has a standard hot shoe foot, then you could also use simple radio triggers. These are usually a lot more reliable than the infrared pulse that you're relying on now. It can work around corners, or out where sunlight or other factors might create a problem. There are also cables that can go from your camera's hot shoe over to the foot on the remote flash - but that's almost always asking for logistical trouble on the set. Radio triggers are SO much more convenient!<br /><br />I regularly use the CLS system on my Nikon bodies and flashes, but that's when I don't have the time or ability to set up more formal lighting. I will, sometimes, use radio triggers with slaved speedlights, though - for range, or to deal with line of sight issues that block the CLS's IR. </p>

[gayana_grigoryan]

<p>That is SUPER helpful information. I didn't even know those things existed! I will definitely buy one. Thank you Matt for your expertise! </p>

[devon_mccarroll]

Do keep in mind that if you use radio triggers, you'll no longer be using CLS, so you'll need to know how to manually set and adjust your

flash for proper exposure.

[lornesunley]

<p>Some radio triggers - like Pocketwizards - DO use Nikon CLS to control the remote flash(es).</p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

Matt Laur's answer is right on the money. I generally use the PocketWizard ControlTL system for TTL control of off

camera small "smart" flashes, but am just starting to experiment with the Phottix Odin TTL radio system.