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Questions about metering on Canon EF film camera


john_flores3

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<p>Hi, I'm new to film photography because I'm just starting studying photography, and I recently bought a camera to use for class. It's a Canon EF film camera. On the same day I bought one, a friend of mine who is also taking the class also bought an EF. They both look identical, but the metering screen is different on both. On mine, on the right side meter, at the very bottom, mine has a 4 while my friend's EF has a 2. I checked the manual, but on the picture of the meter it has a 1.2. <br>

This is how my friend's meter on his EF looks like:<br>

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/Rembo7E.png" alt="" width="515" height="317" /><br>

And this is how mine looks like: <br>

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/vp487DW.png" alt="" width="529" height="313" /></p>

<p>And this is how it looks like in the instruction manual:</p>

<p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/KhkTcdl.png" alt="" width="448" height="335" /></p>

<p>Is there a reason they're all different? Also, the serial numbers on my EF and my friends EF are very far apart. The SN on my EF 237,048 and my friend's EF SN is 421,640. Could it be that since his is newer, his has more F stops on the right than mine? <br /><br /><br>

</p>

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<p>If you remove the lens and look into the lens mount, you will see a chrome-plated button at about the 4:30 or 5 o'clock position. If you push it in and out while looking in the viewfinder, you will see the aperture scale move up and down. There is a matching pin on each FD lens to signal the camera what that lens's maximum aperture is.</p>
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<p>To expand on Jim's response, the aperture scale in the EF adjusts according to the maximum aperture of the attached FD lens such that the maximum aperture should coincide with the edge of the red zone. It looks like your friend's EF has an FD lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 mounted, while yours has an FD lens with a maximum aperture of f/4. The illustration in the manual is what the scale should look like with an f/1.2 FD lens mounted. Based on the serial numbers, your focusing screens should be slightly different. The entire central circular portion of yours should be a microprism, while your friend's should have a split image rangefinder in the middle of the circle surrounded by a microprism outer ring.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the help, I just checked and you're right. I was worried I had a more outdated version of the EF. I have two Canon FL lenses which i was hoping to use with it, one being a 50mm 1.4 and I was worried when the meter wouldn't let me use it properly. So I'll only be able to use the meter with proper FD lenses or is there anything I can do to use FL lenses on it with the light meter working? I was hoping to use my 50mm 1.4 FL with it for class assignments since the FD 50mm 1.4 S.S.C. appears to be stuck wide open. I've messed with it an have trouble shot, and it appears that the blades are stuck. I'd appreciate any advice on that. Thanks!</p>

 

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<p>Thanks for the instructions. I hope I can find a friend who is willing to do that for me. I wouldn't trust myself with doing that, I have a tendency to lose screws and small parts. How hard would you say it is to do? Also, how much do you think a camera repair shop would charge for that?</p>
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<p>The FL lens is stop down metering, while the Fd lens is a full aperture metering. On the Fd lens, metering and viewing are done with the lens at it's widest opening where the viewfinder is brightest to see. when you press the shutter, the diaphragm automatically closes down to the predetermined lens opening. When exposure is made, the diaphragm automatically reopens to maximum aperture again, so check your Fd lens again?<br /><br />Maybe put it on F/16 or F/22, chose a slow shutter speed of 15 or lower and press the shutter. With good light in front of the camera lens, you can see if the lens closes down?</p>
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<p>John, you have first to unscrew the nameplate ring using some kind of rubber friction material. Then remove the three screws to release the filter ring. Its a good idea to work over a large tray in case any of them fall. Then unscrew the front lens group, using a lens spanner but I use an old pair of metal dividers engaged with the two slots on opposite sides. Finally, three more screws and the whole aperture assembly lifts out in one piece. I soaked it overnight in lighter fluid and it freed up nicely. Reassembly is the reverse, after any necessary cleaning of the glass surfaces. You need to work under a good light, and because my eyes aren't what they were, I wear a pair of strong reading glasses to see clearly enough. I'm not particularly dextrous but I managed it OK. I guess a camera repairer would charge fifty or sixty pounds (UK) but who knows? Hope this helps.</p>
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<p>Grey: I've checked the FD 50mm 1.4 SSC lens, the aperture blades are definitely stuck. I have another FD lens which i checked, and the aperture blades move when I press the DOF preview lever on it.</p>

<p>Alex: The EF came with an FD 50mm 1.4 S.S.C. which unfortunately is stuck at wide open, that's why I tried to use my FL. Do you think I'd be better off buying a new FD 50mm 1.4 S.S.C. or should I try to get mine cleaned/repaired?<br /><br /><br>

Mukubul: What could/would I do about the meter? With my FL 50mm 1.4 and my 35mm 2.5, the meter recognizes the max aperture at f 5.6.<br>

John: I'll have to see if I can acquire the tools and then see if I'm feeling brave enough. Thanks for the advice on taking the DIY route.<br /><br /><br />Everyone: Thanks for all the help and input, I really appreciate it.</p>

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