Nikon tc-16a modify problem

[dilom_ski]

<p>Hi all,<br>

I bought an unmodified tc-16a and tried to modify it, but got stuck.While trying to put it back together, had it tough due using a little bigger wire.Then the soldering on the circuit print fell together with the copper place on position 3.Now all I have is this (picture below).Any sudgestions how to make it work?<br />Plus, I cant find the cpu.<br />Thanks in advance for any comments!<br>

<img src="http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss200/dilomski/20150208_092210.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="817" /></p>

[nathan_wong2]

<p>Sorry to hear that this happened to you. I ended purchasing 3 TC-16A's before I got it right. It was a real pain. I finally got it working and I've only used it once during the years I've had it. Figures, eh? It's not as easy as the instructions showed it to be. </p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Hi Dilom. I modified mine a long time ago, so forgive me for being rusty. The plastic strip wiring terrified me as well, and I found a friendly hardware engineer to solder it. (I do own a soldering iron, but it's been a very long time...) Other than asking if you're sure it doesn't work anyway, I can't help you, I'm afraid.</p>

<p>But, for the chip... I pulled my TC16A almost completely apart (taking the optical unit out, although in one piece) to get at the chip. Having found it, I think that was a dumb thing to do - if you reassemble the side with the pins, I think you can get at the chip more easily from the other side. I don't promise, though. My TC16A works, but I'm not sure that the chip modification held (aperture behaviour is a little odd).</p>

<p>Assuming it wasn't a consequence of my disassembly, don't expect brilliance from the optics. It did okay on my D700, but on a D800 it's not all that sharp, especially off-centre. I use it on my 500 f/4 AI-P to get (some) autofocus - but it's not stopping me from wishing I could afford a 400 f/2.8. :-)</p>

<p>Just in case, I'm assuming you're using <a href="http://www.foolography.com/free-stuff/modify-tc-16a/">these instructions</a>, by the way.</p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

 

[dilom_ski]

<p>Thanks for sharing guys!<br>

I will probably use some pro-help too, since I aint good with these things anyway.I am just hoping for some autofocus with my 500 f4 P as well.</p>

 

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>You're welcome, and good luck, Dilom. Specifically on the 500mm, bear in mind that the TC-16A doesn't cover much focal range, so you do have to get close manually and just use it for tuning, and also that you're at f/7 or so. My D700 did seem to be able to focus, but you might get better performance from some bodies than others with this. But so long as you know roughly where you're going to focus (and if you can work out where to point an 800mm - my biggest issue was finding the subject!) it does work as a birding combination. It's just a shame that it's a bit unwieldy, especially with a Manfrotto 393 holding it up!</p>

[dilom_ski]

<p>Andrew, you are right - sometimes is tougher to find the subject in the viewfinder (specially if its in a perfect blue sky) then to manual focus it.I am using d7000.By the way, do you have any opinions on monopod for the 500 P, my old Gitzo which came with the lens as a gift broke, so I am looking for a new monopod.Question - aluminium or carbon fiber, going to use it mainly in the ponds - a lot of water, mud, reeds.</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Hi Dilom. The D7000 might benefit from avoiding the edges of the frame as rendered by the TC-16A. With a crop finder as well, good luck finding your subjects! The one thing I missed from using a 150-500 (and the sharpness at the 500mm end was <em>not</em> something I missed) was the ability to zoom out to find things. I suspect you'll find yourself wanting to stop down to f/8 for a lot of shots to improve sharpness - but in good light, that's still better than the f/11 I needed to get my 150-500 to behave well on a D700.</p>

<p>Sadly, I can't claim to be an expert with monopods. My 500mm persuaded me that my 055CXPro3 tripod wasn't stable enough for long exposures - hence my TVC-34L - but I've always figured that once I'm flopping about from side to side, the rigidity of a monopod isn't a huge concern. I'm sure there are plenty who use monopods the whole time who disagree. It's a shame the 500 f/4 AI is so front-heavy, sadly - experimentally, I can hand-hold a 400 f/2.8, but my belly, despite my best efforts, isn't quite large enough to support my elbow for holding the 500mm. For a monopod to use in ponds, I'd just get something cheap and replace it if it got gummed up. But I'm sure someone will recommend something better - I can't see an Ocean series Gitzo monopod, but if it'll hold the weight (and they're not as stable as you'd hope for the money), the Manfrotto Neotec monopod might be pond-friendly. Good luck, though. (But you might do better in the accessories forum.) </p>

[dilom_ski]

<p>Thanks for the comment, Andrew.I will check some monopods and see what happens.</p>