Non Canon lens on a Canon 1D Mark II

[james_dawitt]

<p>I was hoping that someone could lend a hand with my old Canon 1D Mark II. I have a plethora of Pentax 6x7 lenses. I simply wanted to "try" and use some of them on my 1D Mark II. I purchased a Fotodiiox EOS adapter to 67 with a AF chip. I was expecting the focus conformation light would work but haven't been able to get it working. I'm not sure what mode to be shooting in either with this particular camera? Any help would be appreciated. I did do a few "quick" test shots and manually manipulated the aperture but it didn't make a difference. I tried both Manuel Mode and AV Mode.<br>

On my Nikon D700 I'm able to switch to manual mode and configure for a specific non-Nikon lens and all works well. I was hoping that I could do the same with my 1D Mark II and a few Pentax 67 lenses?<br>

Thanks ...</p>

<p> </p>

[JDMvW]

<p>You are lucky that the focus confirmation chip simply didn't work. One once fried the main circuits in my EOS 20D camera (confirmed by Canon service - see http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00Jb4x ). They are mostly just bits of counterfeit Canon circuitry (sometimes you can tell what it is originally from in the metadata).<br /> I haven't seen the Fotodiox version, to be sure, and my experience with them has been very positive otherwise. I'd just call them or write to see what they suggest, if you insist on using the thing.<br /> I have found these chips to be largely useless anyhow, even when they do work. You will do much better to pry it off (it's likely just glued on, if you're lucky, in the right place), and just use your old Mark I eyeball to focus with.<br /> I don't have any Pentax lenses, but I do have a nice set of Zeiss Pentacon 6TL lenses (50, 80, 120, 180) and one Mir 45mm in same mount. They are not difficult to manually focus, and the 180mm (the classic Olympia Zeiss) is sharper on the 35mm format than most lenses made for that format.<br /> Typo below, it's f/2.8, of course.</p><div></div>

[james_dawitt]

<p>Thanks for offering to help. My eye site isn't that great now that I'm getting old. I found that the focus conformation light really comes in handy with my Nikon D700 and my old AIS 400mm f/3.5 and was hoping I could enjoy the same luxury with the old Canon 1D Mark II. I am also struggling with depth of field. The image below was shot at f/22 with a 55mm Pentax SMC. Seems to me that everything in the background should be in focus? I focused on the STANLEY label. </p><div></div>

[ed_avis2]

<p>I configure my 1D Mark II to have focus on the * button with a custom function. This means that with an ordinary Canon autofocus lens, pressing the shutter button no longer focuses; instead you press * to do that if you want and you can then adjust manually. Anyway, this also works well with manual lenses and chipped adaptors, so you hit * to see the focus confirmation light up.</p>

<p>I don't know why it doesn't work for you, most likely the chip is just not working, but you could try the different setup just in case.</p>

<p>You can also try replacing the focusing screen. The newer Ec-CIV screen is a small improvement over the stock Ec-CIII screen that came with the 1D Mark II. Then there are screens with microprisms or other focusing aids, or a high precision screen, but they are darker so perhaps less suitable for older eyes with relatively narrow-aperture medium format lenses.</p>

[Marcus Ian]

<blockquote>

<p>The image below was shot at f/22 with a 55mm Pentax SMC. Seems to me that everything in the background should be in focus? I focused on the STANLEY label.</p>

</blockquote>

<p> Depends on how close you were. I would guess roughly 3'? (1m) If so, that would give you ~1' of total DOF, which seems roughly appropriate to the image, though obviously the point of focus is actually nearer than the STANLEY label (easy to do w/ MF lenses) yielding the golf balls IF, but the rear area OOF.</p>

[wayne_campbell]

<p>JDM says<br>

"just use your old Mark I eyeball to focus with."<br>

<br>

Hooray. Don't you just hate it when logic raises its ugly head?</p>

[james_dawitt]

<p>Ed,<br /> Is there a way to "brighten" the stock focusing screen? Seems any data displayed inside is just barely visible. Even with Canon L lenses the data is barely visible, even in a low light condition. I haven't seen the focus conformation light yet. I am totally satisfied with the quality of the glass but metering and focusing is tough with my worn out eyes.</p>

[james_dawitt]

<p>Another test image.</p><div></div>

[JDMvW]

<p>As for getting old, yeah, it's more fun than the alternative -- so far as I know, anyhow.</p>

<p>As for the 5Dii, that's what I have. I find that the 'precision' screens made for manual focusing are better than the frankly pretty decent original screen. <br>

Eg-A (5D Mark II): Precision Matte<br />Eg-D (5D Mark II): Precision Matte Grid Lines</p>

<p>I prefer the grid screen since I do a lot of TS-E sort of work on occasion. </p>

<p>The user-interchangeable screens on the mark ii were among the many reasons I got the ii, after the iii came out.</p>

 

[ed_avis2]

<p>You ask about "data" in the focusing screen being barely visible - are you referring to the read-out of aperture and shutter speed, shots remaining and so on? If that has gone dark then only Canon service would be able to fix it (and I think they no longer repair the 1D Mark II, though they will the IIN).<br>

<br />If you mean that the picture on the focusing screen is just too dark to see, there is not much you can do about it. The stock focusing screen is already pretty bright and the alternative ones are usually darker.</p>

<p>But make sure you are not trying to focus the lens at f/22 - keep it wide open when focusing and then stop it down to take the picture. That will also make it easier to see what's in focus. Possibly that is also a reason why the focus confirmation light doesn't work.</p>

[james_dawitt]

<p>Thanks for the suggestions Ed. To my knowledge the read-out screen area in the 1D Mark II were commonly dim. If I recall someone made something called Brightscreens that helped a little but I never purchased one. I will see if I can dig one up and give it a shot. I also ordered a Hoodeye Eyecup that might help a bunch. Even indoors the meter is very difficult to read since it is so dim.<br>

I focus wide open, then stop down if needed and lastly try and read the meter on the right side which is nearly impossible, then take the picture. </p>

 

[jamie_robertson2]

<p>Either use your lenses on a Pentax 67 or get hold of a mirrorless camera that has focus peaking. Manually focusing old lenses on a modern mirrorless camera is a pleasure and doesn't need silly AF chips. </p>

[james_dawitt]

<p>I have a Panasonic GH3. I didn't think they made an adapter for that combination.</p>

<p> </p>