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Is the Leica M4-2 Motor Drive All That Bad?


Alex_Es

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<p>According to my quick search the winder M4-2 comes without a tripod thread. - How are you supposed to mount your big flashgun on an M with it?<br>

I'd be sad to loose the ability to put my (average lensed) M on a table with the winder M4-P I have here.<br>

What indicates "better made" to you?<br>

In general I'd rather waste my precious pay load on something else.</p>

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<p>I just visited Stephen Gandy's Cameraquest article of Leica M motors, none of which he think are particularly good. He writes that M4-2 winders below <strong> </strong>serial number 10350 are bad: slow and not M6 compatible. Those above <strong> </strong>serial number 10350 can work with M6 camera, are fast and have the continuous shooting option. <br /></p>

<p>So, to restate my original question, if you know the M4-2 serial number 10350 + what do you think of it?</p>

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<p>Just digged out mine (SN 13507), inserted fresh batteries, put it on my M6 - and it clunks away,<br /> sounds much like my first series M8!<br /> All these early M-winders are rather rough, and given that there is no possible (electronic) communication between the camera and the motor, it is ALWAYS ON if you switch it on (You can proof this by switching it on unmounted, it will run until batteries are dead) and only the camera gears are stopping it by sheer force. For some reason Leica replaced smooth bronce camera gears with steel.<br /> You can see and feel the impact on the camera because of the trembling advance lever and the shutter release button bouncing back after firing.<br /> Mine has a big fat beauty brass screw with 3/4" tripod thread at the usual eccentric place, rather useless for mounting "big flash guns", but it is there.<br /> All in all, it might be a dog: Simple, loyal, true and able to bite through. Barking a little too loud.</p>

<p>Best,</p>

<p>Knut</p>

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<p>I have one of the early M4-2 motors #6597 which at the time had to be individuallly tweaked to a specific camera. It was very rough on the camera and ultimately destroyed the wind head, I'm quite convinced. at the time I enventually had 2 M4-2's and after the tweak, it would work on both cameras. wrecked the first one though. A turkey. bulky, heavy, and cumbersome. </p>
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<p>When Don Goldberg converted my M3 to motor wind he told me NEVER to use the M4-2 winder as it has way too much torque and will wear out any M camera that it is put on. The Winder M for the M6 and later is much much better with a lot lower torque and that's what I use on my M3 and my M4-P (I have two Winder Ms).</p>
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<p>I'd like to thank Anthony for such a great nugget of information! I didn't even consider that the M3 could be converted to take a motor drive (besides the unaffordable original MP). Since my camera is currently with DAG, I asked him about this.</p>

<p>These are his views:</p>

<p>The M4-2 winder is a piece of junk that belongs in a landfill. It should not be mounted on any camera that you don't want to destroy.</p>

<p>The latest Motor M and Leicavit a fine, and won't ruin anything.</p>

<p>There is no harm to the brass gears of the M3 from the latest motor M. In fact, because it gives consistent torque to the winding it is probably better than thumb winding which is often inconsistent.</p>

<p>It requires only a few extra parts on the bottom of the winding shaft / mechanism to be able to accommodate a motor M or Leicavit.</p>

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

<p>To use the motor winder with an M3 - after it has been modified with the correct winding parts by DAG or some other competent repairman - you also need to modify the motor.</p>

<p> The round plastic cage on the Motor M (it goes under the wind side of the camera) needs to be removed. This is held in by one central screw only, so it is not difficult to remove. Since the M3 has the film on its own spool with flanges, the film is not going to come off the take-up spool without this cage. Even with the other M cameras, Don says that the round cage is superfluous.</p>

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