Lens choice for 7D fast action work

[david_calane]

<p>I need to shoot a couple of bike races where the subjects will be moving 30MPH. I have two lens choices. The Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM or the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM <em><strong>WITHOUT</strong></em> IS. <br>

For previous events I've used the 70-200 and shooting at a shutter speed of 1000 will hit about 80% very sharp images. The problem is that 70mm on a crop sensor isn't as wide as I'd like for many locations on the course. I'm shooting during the day so the 2.8 isn't a big advantage. BUT, I'm guessing that an L series lens can autofocus faster and with better accuracy than the standard EF 28-135mm. OTOH the IS in the 28-135mm should allow me to hit more sharp images.<br>

Thoughts?</p>

[pjmeade]

If you are shooting at over 1/1000, then IS isn't that vital.

If you are going to be close to the action then the wider lens is the right option. What is your shooting method - AV, centre

point focus, evaluative metering and AI servo?

[JosvanEekelen]

IS won't help a bit when your subject is fast moving. AF may be faster and/or more accurate with a f/2.8 or faster lens,

check your manual for this. Both lenses use a ring type USM motor, so both focus fast by design although the 70-200

may be a bi faster. I'd use both lenses, the 28-135 for wide angle shots, the tele for (you guessed it) tele shots.

[avinash_balakrishnan]

Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 HSM seems to be the only other alternative, but it doesn't have the reputation for having a super fast AF like the Canon 70-200f/2.8 L. For wider shots, a Canon 40 f/2.8 STM or 50f/1.8 can also be added for a 100$, along with the 70-200L for best results. But that would mean lens change and its upto you to decide where you want to sacrifice- lens change / better results ?!

[jamie_robertson2]

<p>Forget IS, it's completely pointless in those situations. If you're swinging the lens around following bikes you'd be better turning the IS off altogether. All it will do is waste battery power. Use the lens with the most appropriate focal length for the job and forget everything else.</p>

[david_calane]

<p>Thanks for pointing out that IS is not needed in this situation. So for the high speed shots I'll probably stick with the 28-135 with IS. <br>

Should I turn IS back on for the 1/30 shutter speed "pan with subject to blur the background" motion shots?</p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>Some lens have IS panning mode, but I'm not sure about the 28-135. If it does, it would obviously be good to use while panning.</p>

[Marvin]

<p>I've had good results with my 7D using a Canon 24-105 & Tamron 18-270. Thus was at the race track at mid day.<br>

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=339910</p>

 

[Wouter Willemse]

<blockquote>

<p>the 2.8 isn't a big advantage... an L series lens can autofocus faster and with better accuracy</p>

</blockquote>

<p>With the fair caution that I am not a Canon expert by any means, there is a consideration here why the 70-200 can AF faster more accurate and faster: it is a f/2.8 lens. The AF system is located behind the lens, and the more light the lens lets in, the easier things get on the AF system. So, in theory (all other things being equal) a f/2.8 lens will be faster and more accurate to AF than a f/4 lens, or slower (*). For that reason, I wouldn't really recommend a f/3.5-5.6 lens or a superzoom for sports, but if it works so far, of course no reason to change. But as soon as light levels start to drop, will the differences in AF speed become much more obvious. So for the wider end, I'd really think about something as a 17-55 f/2.8 if the 28-135 isn't working out.</p>

<p>__<br>

(*) for completeness sake: with primes the shallow depth of field and hence bigger emphasis on accuracy means often AF speed is lower in order to make it more precise. In terms of AF speed, f/2.8 is more or less the sweet spot on modern cameras.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Also, with an f/2.8 lens, even with a tele-extender on, there is still enough light for AF, IMHO, that makes a big difference in potential flexibility.<br /> Presumably, you will not use the lens ONLY for bike races, so <em>I</em> would still want IS, but you'd likely turn it off for the races, anyhow.</p>

<p>Remember a lens is still a lens, but money is only moldy old paper stuff, probably contaminated with cocaine (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contaminated_currency">link</a>), anyhow.</p>

[Marcus Ian]

<p>"Should I turn IS back on for the 1/30 shutter speed "pan with subject to blur the background" motion shots?"</p>

<p>With the 28-135, you should NOT turn IS on for panning shots. In fact, if on, the IS may cause blurring in the panning shot. It's IS is of the original variety, great (especially for the 1990s ;) ), but it does not incorporate 'mode 2' (for panning). Not that you really need IS for panning... The hardest thing with using this lens for such work is going to be preventing 'zoom creep' in the middle of a panning shot -depending on how fast your targets are moving of course.</p>

<p>Frankly, regardless of your max aperture, additional DOF is very important for this task, even though the USM of the 28-135 is still pretty darn fast, you'll want to shoot with the max DOF you'll be able to use while holding your shutter speed at or above a minimum speed. </p>

<p>My method for shooting this kind of fast action is to set your exposure in manual, with fast enough SS, adequate DOF, using whatever ISO is necessary given my lens and light limitations, then simply shoot through. If you preset your ~1/30 panning speed in Tv, simply switching between M and Tv will allow you to switch the type of shots you are taking while not screwing up anything trying to switch back and forth from 'frozen' to 'panning' shots.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>The EF 70-200mm f/4L IS is a wonderful lens for bikers. It will NOT be too long for the subjects. Bikers are not that fast either. They follow a very predictable course and you'll have no trouble with focus if you use the AI Servo Mode.</p>

<p>Unless you have a special purpose for an f/2.8, don't spend the extra money on such a heavy lens. </p>

<p>Shoot at ISO 800 and around f/8 for good results. I tend to keep the EF 1.4x TC-III on my 70-200mm. Here's an example:</p>

<p><a title="Damn photographer... by David Stephens, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/9585067054_3e01471408_c.jpg" alt="Damn photographer..." width="800" height="800" /></a></p>

[dcstep]

<p>By all means, try some panning shots, but they get old after a while. Leave IS on all the time, since it won't mess up a panning shot and has no ill effect if used when not needed.</p>

<p>I always recommend springing for the IS because the 70-200mm lenses are wonderfully versatile and you'll want to use it in low light, for other subjects. It's a great street photography lens and ideal for portraits.</p>

<p>If you had the luxury of a full bag of lenses, then you'd shoot some at ultra-wide, some with the 70-200mm and some with a super-telephoto. Each gives a unique perspective. If I could have only one lens for your proposed purpose, it'd be a 70-200mm. </p>

[zelph_young]

<p>Why are you so hung up on Image Stabilization?<br>

As for your 70D, many who rely on their gear to make a living shooting sports dumed the 70D and went back to 1D MkII bodies. A used 1D MkIII is much better than the 70D body and a good step up in performance for sports and action. <br>

Everything from auto racing to soccer to football to NBA basketball has been shot for decades with manual focus lenses and done well.<br>

Work on your technique, shot with wide apertures and learn to follow the action while composing in the viewfinder.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>70D? I thought the OP was going to use a 7D, which is excellent for this purpose.</p>

<p>Modern cameras do not have focusing screens designed for MF work. Forget about even trying it with a current DSLR, for anything other than landscape and portraits.</p>

<p>If you're going to invest in a lens, if you can afford it, get IS to maximize its functionality over a wide range of situations, including things like night street shooting.</p>

[Spearhead]

<blockquote>

<p>many who rely on their gear to make a living shooting sports dumed the 70D and went back to 1D MkII bodies.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>As a sports shooter, I've never seen anyone use a 70D for anything. Also, I haven't seen a 1DMkii at ringside (where I shoot when I'm doing it) for at least eight years. </p>