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How common are Hasselblad light leaks?


justin_halim

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<p>I'm looking to buy a new A12 back after just purchasing a 500cm with a faulty back (no light seal, broken winder, missing springs). I found quite a lot at KEH for decent prices, an EX is $109 and EX+ is $139. They are only listed as Hasselblad Manual Focus A12. Are light leaks really that common with these backs, assuming they are decently old? Should I expect to budget in a light seal kit? Thank you.</p>
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<p>The springy part of the seal is a foam that disintegrates into a sticky mass and then doesn't do anything. I was a bit reluctant to dig in, but when I did, I found it not too difficult to replace.</p>

<p>A bunch of identical screws, pull the back plate off, remove the old seal and crud, put the new one in place and pack the springy foam into the mylar sleeve with the tip of your screwdriver, then screw it all back together again.</p>

<p>The kit costs about $15 on Ebay. The only hitch is that when you remove the plate over the back of the back, look at everything and maybe shoot a picture. There's a tiny wire spring over on the side, and the first back I did, it got away, I had to sweep the floor to find it, and then I didn't know how to get it back in. So I opened the next back to find out. Anyway, once I did one, the rest were easy.</p>

<p>I think you need to assume it will need to be done. I had four backs, all inherited from my brother, and ALL the seals were shot.</p>

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<p>"Identical screws". On some versions, I believe one of the screws is longer. If so, take careful note of its correct position.<br>

Also, I've been told that contrary to popular belief, the rebuild kits are available directly from Hasselblad for about the same price. If so, this would be a better way to go, I believe.</p>

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I've owned several in the past, the film days. I think the seals should be replaced every few years. It's very

easy to do it yourself. It depends where you live as far as the replacement and when you should replace them. Weather conditions. If

you replace the light seals yourself the only thing you need to be aware of is the little round bearing as already stated.

Replacement parts are about $10 or you can actually make your own for about 20 cents. Check out ebay. Taking pictures of each step is a great idea.

There was a guy there that sold the light traps for about $10. His name was "bird" - something, Can't

remember his full address. Oh, the first time you do this take your time. The next time you do this it will take

about 5 minutes. I haven't done this in over 15 years because I'm strickly and sadly digital now. There should be one longer screw I think.

 

Hope this helps.

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<p><strong>Justin</strong>, considering the minimal expense involved in replacing the seals, unless one knows for certain that those fitted to a recently acquired magazine have already been changed, they should be done. You only have to ruin one or two films with light leaks to forfeit the expense of purchasing some new seals, so with an unknown back, personally, I think it's foolish not to do them.<br>

<strong>Bob</strong>, the seller you're thinking of is Dick Werner -- "blackbird711" is his eBay member ID.<br>

I bought a set of Dick's seals four or five years ago when I first bought my 500C/M. I bought and installed another set earlier this year, when I had a light leak across one frame subsequent to removing the dark slide with full sunlight hitting the slot. It only happened once, and only one frame was affected, so I suspect I may have twisted the slide as I removed it that time, as I subsequently shot several more films with the same seals fitted, without incident. After lasting several years with zero issues, apart from the aforementioned, I have no hesitation endorsing Dick's product, and he's been unfailingly friendly and helpful to deal with. You can find his listings <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/blackbird711/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=">here</a>. I have no connection to him other than being a satisfied customer of his.</p>

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<p>Justin. Were you aware of the shortcomings in the back when you bought the camera? Did you buy strictly "as seen" or is there a right to return if its not in working condition? Unless you have another Hasselblad back somewhere you may not yet have been able to test the body? Are you sure that's OK? Would be a pity to buy a different back if it then turned out that the body is compromised too.</p>
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Dick Warner or Werner is a really good guy. He lives near me and he's been in very poor health. Late

70's now. At one time, before digital, he had an incredible amount of Hassy gear. Pretty much anything

you wanted to buy he had it.

 

About the only thing he sells now are the seals. All of his stock of Hassy's are long gone, but he sells

manuals and the the seals.

 

If you are interested he has full manuals with how to repair every part of a Hassleblad. But it is scary to

attempt this. He gave me a few lessons so I was comfortable knowing that he lives 30 minutes from me.

If I had to replace or fix anything now I wouldn't do it. Never - Only the seals. That's it. When the film over laps I won't mess with that either. Sometimes just a tiny bit of oil is needed, but if you have to replace the plastic part I won't go near it. Never!

 

You also can't find any parts now.

 

At one point I was able to replace the shutter springs and a lot of other parts way back until about 2003

when I went full digital.

 

DAVID ODESS is the man to go to here on the BBoard and the country. He's simply the best and I

think he has all of the parts needed to fix any part of your Blads. The hardest part is getting the parts.

Any of my square images on my small site here on the BBoard were with the Blads.

 

If you don't want to take a chance just send it to David. It will be done right and he may have your

missing part. Hope this helps.

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Thanks everyone, no I was not aware of the back's problems, as the camera was advertised on eBay as excellent +. Luckily, the lens

and camera work flawlessly, and an acute matte screen was even provided. The seller is very kind and already gave me a partial refund

to pay for repairs, so I'm not complaining. I just bought a new back on keh and will probably send my current one for repairs - it'll be nice

to have two backs anyway. I think I'll buy the light seal from eBay. Are there any major risks in installing for a beginner like me?

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<p>Not really <strong>Justin</strong>, if you are buying a seal from Dick, he actually includes an instruction leaflet detailing how to install it, so you should be OK if you have average mechanical abilities. There are three points I would make.<br /> First, there is a spring clip underneath the frame you remove to change the seal (this powers the interlock lever for the shutter release that prevents the camera being fired until the dark slide has been removed). This rests in situ under its own tension and may be easily knocked out of place. It must rest correctly against the lever when the frame is re-attached or it may be trapped, and possibly damaged, under the frame as it is introduced to the magazine. If it comes adrift it is not complicated to re-install it, however it can be a bit tedious if it does not want to rest in the correct location by itself, until it is persuaded to do so.</p>

<p>Secondly, I recommend fastening the retaining screws gently and evenly in a diagonal manner to ensure the frame aligns correctly with the aforementioned parts and the magazine body. The screws should be firmly fastened but not overtightened.</p>

<p>Thirdly, it is important to test test the dark slide interlock with the magazine on the body after re-assembly. If the aforementioned spring and lever are not positioned correctly, the interlock may not function properly, or consistently. So test fire the shutter a few times with the dark slide both inserted and removed. If the slide is fully inserted into the magazine, it should be impossible to depress the release button and fire the camera body/lens shutter. If you can actuate the body release and fire it with the dark slide fully inserted, you probably have an alignment issue with the interlock components when you re-assembled things, and need to remove and investigate the issue and repeat the process.</p>

<p><strong>Bob</strong>, I'm sorry to learn of Dick's ill health. I've never met him, but in his correspondence he's been nothing but friendly and helpful. I wish him all the best.</p>

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Thanks Brett - I think I will call him tomorrow and check out his status. About 8 years ago he beat lung

cancer, he smoked, still smokes! Silly man.

 

I'll post something tomorrow. I've known him for a very long time; we've built several computers together. I

have a degree in computers. However he probably knows as much as I do. A very smart man and fun to go

to dinner or lunch with.

 

I've never figured this out. He drinks diet coke, still smokes and he weighs about 140 pounds. An interesting

man for sure!

 

Oh, he buys storage lockers now.

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OK!

 

A Dick Werner update. I talked to him today. He has a very good outlook on life. He's doing OK.! I shouldn't

really go into details regarding his medical issues. However he remains very smart and I will be heading over

to his house next week and help him with some computer problems.

 

In September he and his wife will be going on a cruise up the Mediterranean Sea. He's 78 years old and

pretty much going strong! Probably better then me!

 

Keep him in your thoughts.

 

WT

Thank you for your updates.

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<p>Glad to hear he is doing better, nice guy for sure...<strong>. </strong> I bought 10 light trap seals from him a number of years back. I also bought the repair manual he sells for repairing film backs, I own ten of them and it tells you exactly how to make the light trap seals your self. That being said, I just ordered ten more light trap seals, cheap insurance.</p>

<p> </p>

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