malin_ranwala Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 <p>Hi all, I recently bought a Nikon D5300 which is a pretty amazing camera, I must say. I also have a few SLR flash units (Sunpak Softlite 1600A, Cobra Auto 210, Fotomatic 500A) from my dad's film gear. However I am reluctant to use these as I've heard that high trigger voltages from old flashes can fry the circuitry in newer DSLRs.<br>I measured these voltages with a Caltek digital multimeter with its highest impedance setting and these were the results-<br>The Cobra gave a reading of around 79-81V and the Fotomatic about 91-92V. Unfortunately I didn't get to measure the Sunpak since one of its battery contact terminals seems to be missing, but it clocks in at around 46.6V according to this page www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html<br>I've heard that newer Nikons like the D3200 and the D5200 can handle anything up to 250V, but despite all my googling, I haven't found any mention's of the D5300'S limit. I didn't find it specified in the manual either.<br>Anybody here who knows the proper voltage limit for the D5300? Any help would be much appreciated.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two23 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 <p>I would assume the D5200 and D5300 would be the same. If in doubt, there is a small "device" you can buy and place in between flash and camera as a safeguard.</p> <p>Kent in SD</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_lai Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 <p>The "device" that Kent refers to is the Wein Safe-Sync and costs about $50. The specs may say the camera can handle the voltage, but I'd be uncomfortable about putting an old high voltage flash directly on a DSLR.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_wilson1 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 JMO, but use those old flashes off camera with a slave. Only use newer flashes on camera designed for the new Nikon digital cameras. It's not worth the hassles or possible malfunctions of those older and most likely incompatible units. Better to stick with the Nikon or one of the well known brands. I have the Metz 52 AF touchscreen unit and several Nikon flashes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moussa_seck Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 <p>This site has a database with lot of old flashes, you could find your answer in there. I did not dig in to find the compatibility with a D5300, but I use an old sunpak on my D7000 and it works fine just make sure it is compatible and safe with your dslr camera.<br> http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malin_ranwala Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 <p>I just downloaded the Reference manual for the D5300 which contains a lot more info than the User's manual, and this is what was mentioned on page 234 (Technical Notes)-</p> <p>"Use only Nikon flash units. Negative voltages or voltages over 250V applied to the accessory shoe could not only prevent normal operation, but damage the sync circuitry of the camera or flash. Before using a Nikon flash unit not listed in this section, contact a Nikon authorized representative for more information."<br> The voltages of all my flash units are well within the 250V range, and I don't think they would do much harm since they only have electrical contacts at the center pin and edge of the foot. (no TTL etc.) All in all, I'd better try and find out...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 <p>Nikon, hidden somewhere on their site, have a blanket statement that <em>all</em> their DSLRs can withstand up to 250 volts on both the hotshoe and P-C socket firing pins. I don't see why they should have made an exception of the D5300.</p><p>A better option than the limited application (and quite expensive) SafeSync device, IMHO, is to buy a cheap set of radio triggers. These will also allow you to get the flash(es) off camera for more interesting and professional looking lighting. As well as allowing triggering of almost any number of make or model of flash units.</p><p>I'm seeing radio trigger kits being advertised at almost half the price of a SafeSync. So why would you want the SafeSync's "one trick pony" when you can get a higher degree of isolation between camera and flash and more flexibility from a trigger kit?</p> Edit: Just found Nikon's statement about conformation of their cameras with ISO standard 10330 - 1992. It's here: https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1260/kw/flash%20trigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malin_ranwala Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 <p>Thanks alot, Joe. The statement given on the Nikon website itself says it all, so I guess I'm safe. I'm currently looking at some radio triggers on eBay, and yes, they are pretty cheap compared to a Safesync, which I don't think would be necessary. But will the hotshoes of the recievers take high voltages without burning out?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 <p>Most radio triggers, even the cheap ones, use a triggering component rated at 400 volts. I've used mine, which are the type shown in the link below, on everything from old Metz hammerheads that measure well over 250v on their trigger, through old and new studio strobes to modern low-voltage hotshoe flashes. The only time they didn't work was when the trigger polarity was reversed (hotshoe centre negative instead of conventional positive). They still weren't damaged however, and you can usually get round it by making up a special cable that swaps the polarity. - The old studio flash manufacturer Courtenay were fond of reversing their triggers for no good reason.</p> <p>http://www.ukhighland.co.uk/ishoot-pt04a-radio-wireless-flash-studio-trigger.html</p> <p>There are numerous different designs of trigger all sold under the "PT-04" model number. Make sure you get ones like those shown. There are some square shaped ones that are unreliable and poorly made. Also avoid the ones that claim to be a universal flash swivel/bracket as well; apparently the bracket part snaps off quite readily.</p> <p>Warning: If you come across any old metal-cased Bowens 400 monolights, then they may well blow almost anything electronic. Their trigger voltage is over 600 volts!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malin_ranwala Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 <p>How about this? It's the same PT04A and it looks like the one you mentioned in the link above. (It's not allowed to post Ebay links here so this is only part of the link)<br> .com/itm/iShoot-Wireless-Flash-Trigger-Receiver-for-Canon-Nikon-/250757382851?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a624e02c3</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_stan Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 <p>> Nikon, hidden somewhere on their site, have a blanket statement that <em>all</em> their DSLRs can withstand up <br> > to 250 volts on both the hotshoe and P-C socket firing <br> Well, is it safe to use flash with 230v?<br> It looks to me there is narrow margine, so not to experiment on D800?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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