jitendra_katre Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 <p>hi everybody,<br>I have Canon 7d and I use it for wildlife photography with 300mm,f/2.8, Now I wish to try my hand in 'Landscapes'. Do I go for lens like C 10-22 and use it with 7d or it is essential to go for a full-frame camera and lens like 17-40? The most amazing landscapes I have seen are done with full-frame camera. Thanks !</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearhead Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 <p>I seriously doubt that the cameras being full frame made the photos amazing. You should be fine with the 10-22, you can rent it first if you want to see how it works for you.</p> Music and Portraits Blog: Life in Portugal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_stephan2 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 <p>I too would get the 10-22 unless you have plans to get a full frame camera. If you plan to go FF I'd get the 17-40, if not, I'd get the 10-22. If the 10-22 is to expensive I'd buy a 3rd party lens. I use a Tokina 11-16 f2.8 and it is an excellent and very, very sharp lens. Sharpness is right up there with my 24-105 L.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_campbell Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 <p>How about the new 10-18mm? Cheap!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarah_fox Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 <p>There was a time when full frame cameras accomplish wider angle photography than their APS-C cousins, but that's not true anymore. An EF-S 10-22 on a 7D will give you just a bit wider angle than a 17-40 on a full frame. There are some very specific uses for which a full frame might be better than a crop camera. Landscape photography generally isn't one of them, at least the way most people do landscape photography. This article I wrote might help you to understand the relative advantages and disadvantages of these two formats:</p> <p>http://www.graphic-fusion.com/fullframe.htm</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 <p>Not to mention some third-party APS-C alternatives like the two Sigma 10-20mm lenses ( http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/307-sigma-af-10-20mm-f4-56-hsm-ex-dc-lab-test-report--review , review of Nikon-mount version of newer f/3.5 version: http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/467-sigma_1020_35_nikon )</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jitendra_katre Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 <p>thank you very much for valuable suggestions, friends. I really appreciate your help.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jitendra_katre Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 <p>Sarah Fox, I went through your article and it is really enlightening, Thanks.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgpinc Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 <p>Jitendra, Wait a little while for the new Canon 10-18mm lens to become more available. It is much less expensive than the 10-22mm and reputed to be a better, sharper lens. Something in the 17/18 to 50/55mm would be extremely useful for landscape and general photography. Good luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_de_h Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 <p>Left field suggestion from me. How about a 5D and an old wide angle lens? Add a tripod and cable release and you could end up with a specialist landscape rig for much the same cost as a new wide angle for your 7D. Old manual lenses can have brilliant optical quality and sell for peanuts.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tudor_apmadoc Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 I find that the super wide lenses introduce distortion and have edge sharpmness issues. It becomes very apparent when you try and do a poster sized print. I have found myself moving away from super wides and towards taking multiple shots then stitching them together (my current fave is Auto Pano Giga) Examples https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/sets/72157632968218563/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/sets/72157637062448065/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jitendra_katre Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 <p>thanks friends....<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=857315">Tudor ApMadoc</a>, lovely landscapes...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcstep Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 <p>When you use wide-angle zooms and ultra-wide primes, you'll want to consider using Digital Lens Optimization to geometrically correct for the distortions that Tudor refers to above. Digital Photo Profession, which ships with all Canon DSLRs, has DLO included. Other Raw conversion programs, like DxO Optics Pro and Lightroom, also have modules. The best of these not only correct for Geometric Distortion, but also Chromatic Aberration, Vignetting, etc. at every aperture and every focal length for your lens.</p> <p>I really enjoy using my ultra-wide 15mm (on a full-frame) for "big sky" type shots and then correcting in DxO Optics Pro to get a super, all-inclusive type shot, as below:</p> <p><a title="Calm Sunset by David Stephens, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7392/10355535596_d8ba775463_c.jpg" alt="Calm Sunset" width="800" height="534" /></a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Keefer Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 <p>The price on the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 has dropped over the last couple years, I used mine with my 40D and 7D. I just sold it after buying the 6D and found I can get pretty much the same image with my 17-40mm L on my 6D. When I bought mine they were selling for $600, new ones now can be found for around $400. Here is a landscape shot using my 40D and my old Tokina 11-16mm. Think this was at 15mm.<br /> <a href="/photo/11252091&size=lg">LINK Large</a><br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11252091-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="385" /></p> <p>Keep in mind when considering the lens, the Tokina is an APS-C lens, so if you are planning on going FF you may want to opt for a lens that can also be used on FF.</p> Cheers, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jitendra_katre Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 <p>thanks <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=5331729">David Stephens</a> and <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=3916154">Mark Keefer</a>.. I liked your landscapes too.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcstep Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 <p>About full-frame vs. APS-C crop-sensor, I own the 5D MkIII and the 7D. The 5D's sensor is two-generations newer than my 7D's, so I prefer the 5D MkIII for almost everything; however, matching the sensor and lens is the most important element. Like mine, your 7D is getting long in the tooth and you are about due for an upgrade. The sensors in the 5D MkIII and 6D are exceptional for landscape. The 5D3 has the added advantage over the 7D of a very advanced, fast and accurate autofocus system, which the 6D doesn't share.</p> <p>Not that anyone knows when it'll be released, but I suspect that the 7D MkII will receive a very serious sensor upgrade and improved AF. You might wait for that, or, if you're ready right now, get a 5D3 or 6D with the appropriate lenses. BTW, the 24-105mm is an excellent lens, particularly when you use Digital Lens Optimization to correct for geometric distortions at every focal length and every aperture combination.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jitendra_katre Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 <p>Thanks <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=5331729">David Stephens</a> for very valuable info...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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