Dan Deary Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 <p>This is my fathers Rollei 35 which has been stored in a closet for many years. He also was probably not the best caretaker of this camera perhaps leaving it in hot cars etc. The exterior of the lens looks fine but the interior has specks that do not appear to be fungus or lens separation to me, but I want some input from others. The shutter blades may be a little oily but shutter still works. Could this be oil on the lens? If so is it practical to remove lens for cleaning? The attached picture is the best I could do to show this.</p><div></div> Dan Deary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 <p>With age and length of storage a CLA from a reputable repair place would be a good investment if you plan to use the camera extensively. However, I would suggest running a roll of film through it first just to check it out. The spots might lower contrast a little, depending upon aperture.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_foreman1 Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Mike'S advice is right on. Replacing the camera despite the sentimental value is likely less costly as having it professionally cleaned/restored. You'Re sure this is internal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Deary Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 <p>Chuck: It is definitely internal and I should add that it does not appear to be dust.</p> Dan Deary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernard_lazareff Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 <p>+1 on Mike Gamill's advice. Run test rolls in parallel in this and a known good camera. Look for flare-inducing situations. Maybe not shooting into the sun, but, say, a scene 50% poorly lit foreground with deep shadows and 50% bright overcast sky. If you can develop BW yourself, the test is not costly: just snip off the film in-camera, without rewinding, in the dark, and the rest of the roll is still usable. It's such a nice camera, it deserves the benefit of doubt until proven faulty. You may need to check the meter accuracy with a silver battery instead of the original mercury battery. Or use sunny 16 (sunny 11 for me). Enjoy.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony_lockerbie Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 <p>Could just be dust but it looks a bit like the coating is flaking off, and this would be hard to fix. Maybe a trip to a camera/lens tech. may help. These are excellent little cameras and well worth reviving.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Lazzari Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 <p>Since the first element is flat on it's other side, confidence is high that the spots are on the second element. The spots don't quite go to the edge which tells me there's a curve involved here.<br />It's most likely on the shutter side 2nd element, since the 1st element is unaffected.<br /> (Both sides of the second element are curved)<br /> No glue/balsam"separation" issues here, this because the "group" in a Tessar is at element 3 & 4.</p> <p>This is very easy to clean.<br /> <strong>Peel away</strong> the trim ring at the point where you see the notch. On the camera pictured, it's in between the <strong>C</strong> and the<strong> a</strong> of "<strong>C a </strong>r l". Using a little bit of care & patience, coupled to common sense, the next steps will be evident and should be a very easy DIY.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 <p>According to my favorite camera site, the Rollie 35 is worth about $200.<br> There are plenty of good used 35mm cameras out there for much less, even Canon and Nikon SLRs with good lenses, for much less than $200.<br> I have never had any camera I owned CLA'd, and for most of them it would cost more than the camera is worth.<br> Presumably this would be much easier to fix than a full CLA. It would be interesting to have places that would do CLA mini, for cameras that almost work, need just a little cleaning, a little lubricating, and are close enough not to need any adjusting. (If the shutter speeds are within a factor of two, that is close enough for me.)</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumpton Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 <p>I have a later TE model with the Singapore as opposed to German made Tessar lens. The Zeiss Tessar is a very fine lens, some say even better than the S or SE f2.8 lens, particularly at apertures beyond f3.5 or f4 and with B&W film. If the problem can be resolved a easily as Gus mentions it is well worth the time and effort. I do not use my TE much as the meter became dysfunctional (too costly to have fixed), so if you cannot resolve your problem contact me and we could strike a modest agreement for me to forward you my camera from which you could exchange the optics.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Deary Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 <p>Thanks to all of you for your enlightened responses. I think I will try Gus's recommendation first--I have a little experience with a few lenses in removing some front or rear elements but I was reluctant to try it on this camera without some knowledge of what I was doing. I have heard this camera is difficult to work on so that is another reason for my reluctance. Now I have to convince my Dad to let me try this!</p> Dan Deary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flavio_egoavil Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 <p>Any competent camera technician will be able to clean the lens and should charge far less than US$200, since removing the front element is easy on that camera.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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