Need advise on photo studio layout

[james_smith45]

<p>We have got a spare room in our house and I am considering turning it into home studio. Space is rather limited even though the room is relatively big. Room size is 5.3m x 3m. Ceiling height 2.8m.<br>

At this stage i am planning the layout and I am flexible in altering the layout and do any alterations to the room accordingly.<br>

1) Colour of the room. It was advised that the room should be painted black or dark colours to better control light. However<br>

I have googled and most of the studios had their walls painted light coloured.<br>

I am considering painting it light grey or otherwise dark grey. Black would be too dull.<br>

Who would enter in a black painted room?hmm?<br>

Question: What colour should I paint the room?<br>

2) Backdrop. I would like to use one of those 3 roll backdrop system. However I am not sure whether I should place the backdrop on the far end of the window; hence I will be able to use the available natural light if required or alternatively the backdrop covers the window. I will be adding blackout curtains to the room. <br>

Question: At which side of the room should I put the paper backdrops - side B or D?<br>

3) Wall plugs. I have fitted extra power wall plugs to each side of the room 16 in total. These are located just 0.5m above the floor. <br>

Questions: In practical terms, do you need power plugs closer to the ceiling to power lighting accessories. Obviously, this depends on the equipment one will be using. Other than studio stobes what other lighting equipment one may use?<br>

1) LCD Monitor for tethered photography. Hence, I am considering to install an A/V wall plug. Where would you place the monitor - on one of the side walls? Side A and C?<br /><br />2) Room lighting. Do you use any low-energy saving lighting to light up the studio (outside photo sessions). Say LED flood lights?<br>

<br />4) Pantographs. Considering ceiling or wall mounted pantographs to elimate clutter and floor stands.<br>

One may purchase expensive equipment and there are tons studio equipment out there to choose from; only one's budget is the limit. However equipment would you consider mandatory - other than stobes? - 4 light system etc etc. <br>

I am relatively new to studio photography and since now is the appropriate time to plan the home studio well, I appreciate if you could put forward any recommendations. I am envisaging that I will be shooting portaits and product.</p>

<p>Many Thanks</p>

<p>LAYOUT PLAN as JPG:<br>

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwoUKAGhyP-JNHVqMXBHX09Eems/edit?usp=sharing</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[michaelmowery]

<p>You can do any shade of white or gray. It is color on the walls that make problems. In a real studio environment with white walls it is the photographer that controls any reflected light hitting the subject via grids and in extreme cases black v flats. Backgrounds on D wall. Power outlets are fine. Monitor would keep portable and mount it on a small cart or a steel baby roller stand. General lighting for studio use 5,500 kelvin bulbs...No just kidding. Use any standard light. Your home studio is not that big to begin with so I would defiantly keep it clear and clean of any excess equipment. Store all that extra gear in one of your closets. Once you set up a backdrop, lighting and your tripod you will have shrunk the room. Good luck.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>Using pantographs without ceiling tracks will severely limit your lighting setups. Your ceiling height (just over 9 ft) will be a limiting factor for hair and rim lighting. Especially for standing subjects.<br>

Use a roll-around laptop stand for your computer and monitor when shooting tethered so you can place it where the subject can/cannot see it as required. <br>

<Chas><br /><br /></p>

[mike_earussi1]

<p>Start with a basic four light system: main, fill, background light close to the floor, and a hair light on a boom. Also the hair light, being very weak, can be a shoe mount flash.</p>

<p>Wall color depends on what kind of portrait work you're doing. The purpose of black walls is to prevent light from spilling where you don't want it. This is only necessary if you're doing high contrast, dramatic type of portraits like Hurrell:</p>

<p>https://www.google.com/searchq=hurrell&rlz=1T4GZAB_enUS424US424&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=NVX5UvSyN8jK2wWYsoHwCw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1536&bih=760</p>

<p>or: http://www.studiocharis.com/gallery.php</p>

<p>Otherwise white is fine, if not preferred for a more normal "diffuse" style.</p>

<p>I would though, suggest you place your subject at C as it gives you more room to place your lights and also gives you the option of using natural window light occasionally.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>Placing your subject at "C" gives you only a few feet between you and the subject. You need space between the subject and the backdrop to avoid harsh shadows, perhaps 1-2 meters. That takes away much of your shooting space.<br>

I think your best bet is to place the subject at "D" and shoot long-wise in the room. Use a focal-length angle of view calculator to see how much of your subject you can fit. You may be limited to head and shoulders without getting into to wide-angle perspective distortion (big hands, noses, feet, etc).<br>

<Chas><br /><br /></p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>That's not a particularly large room. I would completely black out the window and put your backdrops on Wall B. The reason I choose that end rather than Wall D is that you need room on either side of the subject for lights, and could end up with one of the lights right in the doorway or very close to it.<br /><br />Really doesn't matter much where the electrical outlets are since you're going to be moving the lights around for different lighting setups. I think a pantograph would be a waste of money for anything short of a large, high-volume permanent studio. At least try shooting in the room for a while with ordinary stands until you see where your lights most often end up. <br /><br />No need for any kind of AV connection for shooting tethered, just a cable from the camera to the computer.<br /><br />If the wall are a neutral color already, I would leave them alone.<br /><br />I admire your planning, but I would just get in there and shoot before I'd start spending a lot of money or installing permanent, expensive accessories that aren't really essential.</p>

[james_smith45]

<p>Your suggestions are all valuable. Thank you so much. I will go ahead with the minimum equipment and opt for a portable laptop rather than having a fixed monitor. I thought about fixing the backdrop on side D but I agree with Craig that the equipment might obstruct the door way. The only positive thing I could think of would be the natural light coming from the opposite window. Sides C and D are out of question. <br>

Well I know it is not the best or spacious photo studio but can't do otherwise for now. <br>

Thank again for your valuable suggestions. Should something else come to your minds please feel free :) Have a good night.</p>

 

[michaelmowery]

<p>I would keep everything potable and moveable so you can use any wall for the backdrop. You may need more room to back up for shots. You just need to get in there and start shooting and feel it out.</p>

[bob_bill]

<p>Definitely the background system bolted to the wall. You may need every inch of length and bg stands can eat up to a foot or 2 off your 16 foot length. You will want subject at least 5 -6 feet from the bg leaving you 10 feet putting your back against the wall. Is this room on the first floor, could you shoot through the window from outside to gain length? Think modifiers with control, grids, egg crates. Have v flats or reflectors with white/black panels. You may want to be able to block the window light completely, but it can be beautiful light so a pop out bg on one side wall might give you an easy second setup just pulling in a reflector or bouncing a flash and using window light. I would consider shooting subjects seated with that low a ceiling or be ready to stretch the bg in post. </p>

[mark_harrington1]

<p>You should have enough room. You will need about 3 feet above the subjects heads for hair light or use a grid and power back the strobe. You should look into autopoles rather than a pantograph system. I would recommend a ceiling mounted muslin track and use hooks on the autopoles for any canvas. Buy vinyl seamless in white and if you prefer black and a chroma blue or green. This setup will give you the greatest flexibility for your smaller space. Blocking out the window light may not be totally necessary if you are shooting at f/11 or higher but I like the total control of the lighting. As for blackout curtains, i would suggest that you get a piece of black foamcore and wrap the edges with felt. Put some pull handles on the back of it and you can easily remove it when you want to shoot available light. Curtains will clutter up your space and take up room that could be used for muslins etc, not to mention that the curtains will make the space look more cluttered. you don't have to have a huge shooting room, just need to master the space you have. I would suggest that you use lenses above 50mm on 2/3 crop camera and 85 on full frame to prevent distortion.</p>

[erwin paul photography]

<p>One suggestion for a hair light I would like to add is the Sunpack flat panel (also sold by Interfit).<br>

Its a battery operated non adjustable flash 4x6 inch and 1 inch flat. It's not the perfect solution, but better then no hair light. I have two of the Interfit's and glued a sheet of metal on the back side. I have attached a magnetic strip on my ceiling at about the place where I want my subject to stand.<br>

Since the light output is non adjustable, the F-stop depends from distance from light to subject, you will have to play and adjust your other lights to match.<br>

I use these if a snoot doesn't do the trick, multiple subjects like a family, since my ceiling is only 8ft.</p>

<p>Just an idea...<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/323726-USA/Sunpak_MCEF_KIT_FP_38_Flat_Panel_Flash.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/323726-USA/Sunpak_MCEF_KIT_FP_38_Flat_Panel_Flash.html</a></p>