Nikon Coolpix A: Mini-review--the first 24 hours.

[studio460]

<p>Thanks for the kind words, Chip!</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Those flash results look great. Thanks for the posts and sample photos.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Lex said:</p>

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<p><em>Those flash results look great.</em></p>

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<p>Thanks, Lex! Of course, I only showed you the <em>good</em> exposures! Actually, my first built-in flash tests at the beach yesterday had me doing a bit of flash forensics work after ingest. I incurred a couple of issues, which at first, were a bit puzzling (issues which are probably more likely to crop up when shooting casual snapshots, as opposed to more studied shooting). Here's a couple of flash anomalies (which, by the way, probably <em>aren't</em> specific to this particular camera), which I encountered:<br /> <br /> Flash exposure "error" condition 1:<br /> <br /> A couple of head-and-shoulders snapshots resulted in the flash being too hot. I immediately assumed it was my "stupid" built-in flash's fault. But upon closer inspection, I realized this only happened on <em>mis-focused</em> pictures. I presume the camera thought the intended subject was further away, where the camera was inadvertently focused, and therefore increased its output due to its "distance-aware" TTL programming.<br /> <br /> Flash exposure "error" condition 2:<br /> <br /> Then, when this second "error" condition occurred, of course, I immediately thought my flash was "broken." For five frames in a row, the flash "failed" to fire (it actually did fire, but at an extremely low output level). But upon later review of all successive frames, I discovered that the <em>only</em> frames where the flash "didn't fire" happened to include a Scotchlite-coated, reflective handicapped parking sign. All frames taken at about the same distance which happened to <em>exclude</em> the sign resulted in proper flash exposure. I'm assuming that the TTL circuitry must've "seen" the high reflectivity of the sign, and reduced its output accordingly.<br /> <br /> <br /> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/NikonA-mb3.jpg" alt="" /><br /> TTL "fail."<br /> <br /> Coolpix 'A' flash-exposure compensation "mystery" menu options:<br /> <br /> Perhaps other Coolpix-series shooters can answer this one for me? The only information in the manual regarding how to use the Coolpix' built-in flash merely tells you how to move the switch to pop it up. There <em>is</em> a separate flash-exposure compensation camera settings option, accessed by pressing the <em>info</em> button. It enables you to increase or decrease the amount of flash compensation desired in 0.3-stop increments (up to a maximum of +/- 3.0 stops). But, there's also another flash compensation setting in the <em>main</em> camera settings menu (accessed by pressing the <em>menu</em> button) which offers two options: 1.) "entire frame," 2.) "background only." It's a toggle-selection (choose either 1. or 2.), with no other selectable options. I tried "entire frame," and that seems to preserve the ambient exposure. A quick Google search turned up nothing, and as I said, the manual only reveals how to pop-up the flash. Are there any other Coolpix users who have an idea how these options work?</p>

[studio460]

<p>Nikon UR-E24/HN-CP18 third-party filter adapter + lens hood:</p>

<p>This third-party UR-E24 filter adapter and HN-CP18 lens hood replacement is sold by various Amazon sellers for less than half the price of the Nikon version. Sold in both black and silver, under the brand, "JJC," it's priced between $39.99 and $44.99 (Amazon Prime). I opted for the Amazon Prime seller and got it in only two days. For some reason, all US retailers are backordered on the Nikon OEM version, which I was initially planning to order.</p>

<p>The reason I bought the lens hood is because the metal front of my lens assembly is really starting to get banged-up and scratched (I've been wearing this camera to work everyday), so I really could use the protection of a metal lens hood. The ability to add filters now is an added bonus! Of course, with the lens hood installed, I lose the "pocketability" of the camera, but it's really only been around my neck since I got it. This particular third-party accessory is a quality, all-metal product that's a direct-fit replacement for the Nikon UR-E24/HN-CP18 part. The hood has a slightly different shape than the Nikon OEM product, but I think it actually looks cooler than Nikon's version:<br /> <br /> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/NikonA-h1.jpg" alt="" /></p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Ralph, regarding the flash exposure problems you encountered, that seems typical of Nikon's auto-flash. I occasionally see similar problems with the D2H and SB-800, and V1 with SB-N5. Both tend to overreact to small bright hot spots in the frame, whether a reflective sign as in your example, or a bright house light or street light.</p>

<p>I don't know whether Nikon puts too much emphasis on distance, reflected values, or what. But Nikon TTL flash is occasionally tripped up badly by some situations that other cameras handle more gracefully.</p>

<p>In that respect, Ricoh's auto-exposure/auto-flash with the GRD4 was far better than Nikon's - it's very difficult to badly fool Ricoh's auto-everything mode in the GRD4. So is the typical Olympus P&S auto-flash exposure - that's why I recommended an Olympus P&S to a friend as her first P&S digicam. I don't know whether Ricoh translated that same excellent auto-everything capability to the APS sensor GR.</p>

<p>With the D2H and SB-800 I'd often use the flash FV lock to get more consistent flash results in tricky situations. This option isn't available with the V1 and SB-N5.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Lex said:</p>

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<p><em>Ralph, regarding the flash exposure problems you encountered, that seems typical of Nikon's auto-flash. </em></p>

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<p>Well, if that behavior is typical, then at least now I <em>know</em> about it. I guess it caught me by surprise since I shoot very little on-camera TTL flash normally (except for specialized event work where highway signs are pretty much absent). Caveats aside, overall, I'm pretty happy with the Coolpix' built-in flash performance. In addition, I think the camera's program mode is exceptional, and is the first time I've ever used program mode on any camera.<br /> <br /> If you haven't noticed by now, I'm pretty happy with the camera overall, and have been using it mainly as a point-and-shoot, "snapshot" camera when I don't have, or don't want to take the time to take more precise shots. In this role, the Coolpix has performed very well. I guess what I really wanted/needed was the very best "set to program mode and forget it" kind of compact camera there was, and I think the Nikon Coolpix 'A' comes pretty close to being just that.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>If I seemed grouchy about Nikon's flash, it's only because it's already so good I'd like it to be perfect. The Ricoh GRD4 auto-everything flash mode is nearly perfect - even strong backlighting at night doesn't fool it. But despite my nitpicking even the SB-N5 flash I've had for a couple of months with the V1 works very well, including in tricky bounce situations.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Yeah, in general, the Coolpix' flash is pretty good, too--didn't think you sounded grouchy. It's always a bit disappointing when they get things <em>almost</em> perfect, but not quite. But, again, I'm so darned pleased with this camera's overall performance, it's easy to forgive any of its few (small) shortcomings.</p>

[robert_k1]

<p>This got to be the most detailed hands on review ever.</p>

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<p>Another way to work with focus while in manual-focus mode on the Nikon 'A' is to program the Fn1 button on the front of the camera to "AF-ON." When the hard switch is set to "MF," you can then press the Fn1 [AF-ON] button, and the camera will enable auto-focus while depressing the Fn1 button. Not really a "solution," just a way to momentarily acquire focus automatically while in manual-focus mode.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>After focusing this way, will the focus remain locked so that you can recompose before releasing the shutter? If the focus is locked, will the exposure also be locked when you recompose?</p>

[studio460]

<p>Robert said:</p>

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<p><em>After focusing this way, will the focus remain locked so that you can recompose before releasing the shutter?</em></p>

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<p>Yes.</p>

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<p><em>If the focus is locked, will the exposure also be locked when you recompose?</em></p>

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<p>No, not if the Fn1 button has been assigned to AF-ON (I just tested it--the focus stays fixed, but the auto-exposure varies as you re-frame). However, you do have the option to set the Fn1 button to AE/AF lock.<br /> </p>

[studio460]

<p><em><strong>/////////////////////////////////AF UPDATE/////////////////////////////////</strong></em></p>

<p>I just bought a Sony NEX-3N, and now that I have a current compact to compare the Coolpix 'A' with, I need to amend my AF report for the Coolpix 'A':</p>

<p>Nikon Coolpix 'A', close-focus AF speed: slow (1.0 secs.+)<br /> Nikon Coolpix 'A', normal distance AF speed: acceptable (<1.0 secs.)</p>

<p>Sony Alpha NEX-3N, close-focus AF speed: fast (about <em>3x</em> faster than the Coolpix 'A')<br /> Sony Alpha NEX-3N, normal distance AF-speed: fast (about <em>1.5x</em> to<em> 2x </em>faster than the Coolpix 'A')</p>