exposing 800-speed film at 1600?

[alex_anonymous]

<p>First off, THANK YOU to everyone for keeping this forum active. The knowledge that I've gained from this forum is invaluable to me!<br>

Ok, I have a few rolls of 800 ISO Kodak Ultramax and I plan on taking it to a camera shop and just having them develop it as 800 ISO.... I was wondering if shoot it at 1600 ISO, does it mean that I should operate my camera as if it's 1600 ISO film and NOT 800 ISO film? <br>

Or, should I operate my camera as if I'm not shooting it at 1600 ISO?<br>

I really hope I'm making sense! If anyone needs me to be more detailed, please ask.</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>Hi!<br>

This<br>

<a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/acrobat/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e7024/E7024.pdf">http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/acrobat/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e7024/E7024.pdf</a><br>

shows that Kodak recommend only a meter setting of ISO 800 – unlike some other pro color neg films such as Ektapress, Ultramax 800 is not designed for push processing. If you want this, you will have to go to a pro lab, even then they may not offer it (because it’s not often asked for) and the quality of the results would be uncertain. Most people find they get the best from color neg film by shooting at half box speed and processing normally. If you really want to uprate the film and are sure you can get it push-processed, then of course set your camera meter to EI 1600 or whatever figure you are going for.</p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>So, basically you want to underexpose each shot by 1 stop? And yes, if you want the treat the film as ISO1600 film, you need to set your camera as if it's ISO1600 and adjust exposure accordingly.<br /> It may depend a little on what kind of camera you use; modern film cameras may have DX-code recognition and "see" it's ISO800; you'd have to underexpose yourself. Older and/or more high-end cameras with built-in metering let you set the ISO-speed, and hence you can set it like it's ISO1600, and not worry about changing your exposure value but use the reading of the built-in meter. Much older cameras, you do all the math yourself, so you'd just calculate like it's ISO1600 (sunny 16: 1/1600th at f/16 etc.). Using a hand-held meter, act like it's ISO1600. Well, you get the picture :-)</p>

<p>You may want to inform the camera shop that you've treated the film as ISO1600 so they can take it into account for the development and possibly push it a little. But since I do not know too much about this specific film, maybe that's not at all necessary or the opposite from what is needed. <em>[Edit: perfect, David filled that gap in my reasoning perfectly!]</em></p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Set your meter (in-camera or handheld) at 1600 and expose accordingly. Tell the lab you want a one-stop push. But as noted above, you have to take it to a professional lab -- when you tell the local drug store or one-hour lab you want a one stop push, all you will get it a blank stare.</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>Just for info, the pro lab I use (Peak Imaging in Sheffield UK) offers push-processing for E6 (color slide film) but not C41 (color neg film). I imagine the reason is that the only people who ever wanted C41 pushed were sports photographers (very often using the Ektapress film I mentioned earlier) and these are now all shooting digital. I would say to Alex, shoot at EI 400 or 500 (set this manually if you can, otherwise set your camera to+1 stop exposure correction) - the quality will be much better.</p>

<p> </p>

[alex_anonymous]

<p>Thanks to everyone who answered! Now I know what to do :)</p>

[plasma181]

<p>I joined this forum back in 2004, just before digital totally took over. I used to get a laugh out of the advice I would read. Somebody would ask, " What's a good 800 speed color print film?" And someone else would reply, "XYZ 800 is a great 800 speed film. Just expose it at 160 and it looks great." </p>