bob_mcbob Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 I've just bought an A-1 off ebay, and I know it would be a good idea to give it a once over to check for electrical problems, shutter problems, etc. I've heard that it's a good idea to test the electrical contacts on the hot shoe, and make sure the electronics aren't leeching power from the battery when the camera is turned off. I've done a visual inspection of all the internals you can see without taking the camera apart (don't intend to). Shutter curtain, pressure plate, focusing screen, mirror, etc. I suppose that doesn't necessarily tell you a whole lot about the camera, but it makes me feel better, anyway ;) (they're in superb shape). I'd also like to test to make sure that the shutter is timed correctly. I know it's possible to do this using a TV or computer monitor (checking how much it refreshes), but I'd love to see some specific instructions for it. I'll probably try that out when I run a test roll through it a bit later today. The camera has been recently CLAd, so I'm not expecting anything drastic, but it's good to be certain, I'd say. I'm your typical poor student, so I just like to make sure when I buy photography equipment! Any help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_L1664876404 Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Chris, Since you didn't mention gummy mirror or light seal foam or a mirror return squeal, I assume the CLA included these items. If it were mine (I've owned and used my original A-1 since 1982), I'd run some film through it and see if the exposures are OK... why go to any extra trouble or expense otherwise? Use it and enjoy it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_oleson Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 hi chris: here are some notes on the TV screen shutter test. you can do this either on film, or with the lens off just looking through the shutter. http://members.tripod.com/rick_oleson/index-135.html rick :)= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Chris- 1. With regard to all Canon A-series cameras, the number one expensive problem is the shutters going bad and losing accuracy. You can hear this problem developing if the shutter makes a "zzzzzzzz" sound like a slinky being handled when you trip the shutter release, sort of like a car motor with a run-on problem after you turn it off. 2. As to the flash shoe, it either works or it doesn't. The A-1 was not a TTL-metering camera. And with a flash sync of a mere 1/60th of a second, if your A-1 won't sync, send it back. 3. To check the accuracy of the cameras apertures and shutter speeds, shoot a test roll of the same shot in the same light. Start at, say, 1/500th at f/2.0, then 1/250th at f/2.8, 1/125th at f/4.0, 1/60th at f/5.6, etc. You will essentially be using the same exposure, so all the frames you shoot should be of identical density. I find that shutter speeds usually lose accuracy first in very fast exposures or in very slow exposures. Apertures tend to slow down so you see overexposure where the aperture didn't close fast enough and far enough down. Take some exposures with your lenses at minimum aperture, f/16 or f/22. If you get correct exposures at these apertures, your lenses' apertures should be fine. 4. Its good that you've done a visual inspection. I personally take in at least 100 bodies on trade for a camera store each year. I find that the majority of cameras with significant internal problems also exhibit more obvious external problems. 5. Last, get a standard gray card and fill the frame with it in bright sunlight around the middle of the day. At ISO 100, your exposure should be 1/500th at f/8.0. If the meter varies dramatically from this exposure, it may need to be recalibrated. 6. As to getting cameras cleaned and checked, anymore, this costs upwards on $100. Particularly with older cameras that aren't worth a fortune, I advise people to use them until there is a problem that needs fixing and to get a camera cleaned, lubed and adjusted at that time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_mcbob Posted July 8, 2003 Author Share Posted July 8, 2003 Yep, the CLA included all foam replacement, so the light seals and mirror foam are in great shape. I'm going to run a test roll through it this evening, and I thought it might be good to try a few shots to make sure the shutter timing is accurate. I'm willing to check the electrical contacts and such, because it's a fairly quick job, and I just want to make sure everything is perfect, since this will be my main camera for a couple of years :). Thanks for the information, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Given that the camera has recently been serviced, you should get a number of years of reliable shooting before the next CLA. I routinely see A-1s, AE-1s and AE-1Ps that haven't been serviced in their 20+ year lives and don't need service. One other thing, FD-mount cameras are a good choice for students. There are a ton of excellent Canon and third-party lenses available at very reasonable prices, as Canon changed its mount when going to autofocus SLRs, unlike the Nikon F mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_mcbob Posted July 9, 2003 Author Share Posted July 9, 2003 If anyone's interested, I developed that roll, and this is how the four TV shots came out: <a href="http://www.pbase.com/bob_mcbob/shuttertiming">http://www.pbase.com/bob_mcbob/shuttertiming</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregory_nicholson Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Hi Chris....When I got my A-1 back from its CLA I had my camera shop test the shutter speeds. Chad, the owner, who BTW said our guy doesn't fix shutter squeal, that's way they didn't handle the CLA, tested it right in front of me so I know what he said was consistant with the test meter. Everything was okay except 1/1000 was at 1/750, also 1/30 was at 1/25 and 30 seconds was at 28, which we tested 2 through 30 seconds using a calibrated stop watch. He said generally you can't get an accurate reading at 1/1000 because there's not enough light going in to operate the test meter and the 1/25 and 28 seconds was okay/close enough. When I performed the TV test I found the the speeds were off pretty far. So I tried again shooting five frames at each given speed. Then some were good and others were not. Generally 3/5 were where they needed to be. So, I don't know just thought I'd share that with you after seeing your results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timothy_fitzgerald Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Hey! Just tried that link for the information on the TV shutter test; no joy! The hosting site said the page was no long available. Please check the link and re-submit it? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timothy_fitzgerald Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Eh, disregard. Tried the TV shutter speed test link again and it worked this time... Go figure... Must've inadvertently missed a letter or two on the end when I cut/pasted the first time. Sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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