B&W films for night shots in Venice

[david_henderson]

I use a Bronica SQAi with 120 and 220 film. All my work for many

years has been colour transparency but I'm going to Venice next week

and I'd love to try some B&W night shots. I'll be using a quality pro

lab to process and print the results. My question is what sort of

films should I take? The place has lots of texture and atmosphere and

I tend to prefer contrasty B&W images. I'll be using a tripod. From

what little I know my inclination is to take Delta 100 for long

exposures and Delta 3200 when a fast speed is important. Are there

better or additional options?

 

Also, should I be filtering these shots? I have checked from the

archives that a red filter is useful for architectural photography,

but does this apply at night? Sorry if this is all a bit basic but I

try and set myself a specific "learning" project on most trips

alongside my main objective. Thanks in anticipation.

[andreas_carl]

Good choice. Delta 3200 is grainy as you would expect but beautiful. I'd recommend against filtering - it would simply eat up too much light!

 

Take some night shots in your hometown with the films and techniques of your choice before you venture out in the World.

[scott_eaton]

One neat little technique I use for night shots is to shoot Ilford XP-2 or Kodak T-CN400. I then have the images printed on saturated Fuji type "C", Fujiflex or Kodak duraflex paper with a heavy sepia tint.<P><a href="http://www.mindspring.com/~wseaton/pictures/pearl.jpg">Pearl Street during Rain</a>

[pete_su]

For night shots, latitude is important. I've had good luck with Tri-X, f4 or f8, brackets from 10 seconds to 30 or more.

 

<P>

example: <A href="http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~psu/paris-louvre.jpg">The Louvre at Night</a>

[michael_heal]

<p>I second the vote for Delta 3200. I would suggest, however, that you try TMX 100 instead of Delta 100 if you intend to make long exposures. TMX 100 requires much less compensation for reciprocity, which allows the option of somewhat shorter exposure times. More importantly, however, it allows you to tame the extreme contrast typically found in street scenes at night. Don't worry; the reciprocity failure of TMX, combined with the high-contrast nightime lighting, will give you more than enough contrast.</p>

<p>I suppose a polarizer might be useful if you come across a reasonably well-lit scene and want to tame some reflections. In general, though, I suggest you save the filters for daylight.</p>

<p>If you are not used to this type of work, you should definately try some night shots before you leave. Your meter will behave differently under the very dim and often coloured lights. In fact, it may even be of no use at all.</p>

[david_henderson]

Michael

 

I've tried a couple of times on this and a previous occasion to email my thanks for your response, but it keeps coming back as undeliverable. Anyway, thanks for your help, particularly in reminding me about recipocity failure which I must admit I may have forgotten since all my colour work is in daylight!.

 

David