Non-Operating Nikon MD-2 only as hand grip for Nikon F2

[roy_ramavarapu1]

<p>I will not claim that I did an exhaustive search if my subject question has been asked/answered before; my search showed several topics on F2 and associated motor drive(s), but not on my question.<br>

I have a Nikon F2AS, and a non-operating MD-2 [i also have (both) operating MD-2 + MB-1]. I would like to use the non-op MD-2 as a hand-grip (please set aside questions/comments on the additional weight) without any MB-1, and use the F2AS shutter release only, and F2AS film advance lever only. I attached the non-op MD-2 to the F2AS (without any MB-1, and no film in camera), and the first F2AS shutter release fired once, then wanted to advance the frame with the F2AS film advance lever, but it would not advance. I would like to add that the non-op MD-2 was in L (lock position on the MD-2 firing button, and the dial setting on the rear (near the name plate) was in M3 (green 125). I would think these settings on the non-op MD-2 are not relevant as I am only using it as a hand-grip (that is what I want to do). Anyway, I did not force anything, detached the non-op MD-2, and used the F2AS shutter release button to fire, and also advanced the frame counter several times in the normal way.<br>

Could somebody with more experience write me if I have to do something different to use the non-op MD-2 as a hand grip, or if it is at all possible to use it in my intended mode. I believe the F3 + MD-4 will allow one to use the combination in my intended way (alternate between the F3 only or MD-4 only in the combination). Or, is my intended use only possible with an operating MD-2+MB-1 attached to the F2AS. That would not be a "hand-grip".<br>

Thank you all for any information on this question.<br>

Best regards.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 01 Sep 2013<br>

</p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>I think the MD-2 motor will hold the wind mechanism back so you can not advance the film manually. The MD-2 has no electrical connection to the F2 and it's very primitive. </p>

<p>But I can't help but say Oh my god someone like grips. I hate them. I wish modern camera don't come with built in grip.</p>

[Dieter Schaefer]

<p>The F2 manual indicates that the manual advance lever and the shutter release button of the camera should continue to function when the MD-2 is attached - so what you intend to do should be possible.</p>

<p>Which brings up the question as why your MD-2 is non-operable. If the gears are seized then you will try to turn them using the camera's film advance lever - and that, of course, won't work. The only mechanical connection that you need to worry about is the little fork on the side where the grip is - it winds the film. If you aren't able to turn it freely by hand, then you won't be able to turn it with the camera's film advance lever as well.</p>

<p>Why not open the MD-2 and take out whatever is in there - especially the spindle with that fork?</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I wish modern camera don't come with built in grip.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>One of the best ergonomic improvements in camera body design IMHO. I used to attach motor drives to my FM/FM2/FA/F3 just so that I had a grip to hold the camera by. Just yesterday I compared the OM-D EM-5 (without grip) with a Sony NEX 6 (with grip) - and its a night and day difference!</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Roy, are simple 'L' bracket hand grips not available any longer?</p>

<p>I sold my MD-2 ages ago due to its unreliability and the added weight (and cost!) of several AA batteries. I can't remember if it was possible to use the leverwind with the MD attached, and <a href="http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_md-2.pdf">the manual</a> doesn't seem to make it clear. Why not try it for yourself with the working MD-2 that you have? In any case I do remember that the squared-off shape of the MD-2 didn't make for a very comfortable grip.</p>

[roy_ramavarapu1]

<p>Thank you all for the responses. I am replying (briefly) to the comments: An (improvised) hand-grip for the F2 helps me get a better balance, and a better grip - simply a personal preference. I will try out the MD-2+MB-1 (both operating normally) on the F2AS, and see if the camera only can be operated (like the F3); need to do this, and will write on this. I think Dieter Schaefer's comment is applicable to improvising a hand-grip. The non-operating MD-2 is quite good cosmetically, but awful inside. I removed the top and bottom cover plates sufficiently to look inside, and there is a lot of corrosion/rust, etc. I will just excavate the components inside, including the fork mechanism (BTW: this fork mechanism turns freely). I think this fork mechanism engages the film cartridge (maybe indirectly), and does not have a mechanism to disengage when the camera is operated in my intended way. In any case, removing the internals should enable me to use it as intended (reduces weight); I would also not remove the O/C key on the camera bottom (will remove the fork on the in-op MD-2) with a shell MD-2 serving as a hand grip. Also, I feel very comfortable with the improvised hand-grip. In this connection, there was a hand made grip offered by a dealer from China for the Leica cameras - made of Hong Mu wood (this is Chinese rosewood, I think) - many years ago, it was listed at about $80; now, the same kind of item is listed at close to $600; I don't have it, and a humble excavated/shell MD-2 would be fine for me.<br>

Thank you all for the information.<br>

Roy Ramavarapu, 02 Sep 2013</p>

[john_demarco]

Hello Roy, I just tried the combination of MD-2 without the MB-1 on my F2 and the shutter did fire using the cameras

release. Just out of curosity i also tried it with S,C, and L settings on the drive's release. I tried this a few times, and the

film advance lever also worked. Your camera should work fine with the combination that you want, hope this helps you.

[sebastianmoran]

<p>The very nicely made f-grip shows up on eBay from time to time. Set yourself a search with email notification... "f-grip" in Cameras and Photo. I got one in the past year and they are very nice.</p>