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kodak Vigilant


tom_choate

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<p>Good Morning !! Rainy here, but still a great day. On my Kodak Vigilant, Which, is in excellent condition, I have a small problem. In fact, the only problem, even the glass is in remarkable shape and the bellows are light tight and supple.<br>

The shutter operates correctly in the "T" and "B" settings. But on the other speeds, no matter which one its set on, it fires at the same speed. I'm guessing its either 1/50 or 1/25. It has the f4.5 Flash Kodamatic Shutter 105mm. I'm not to concerned about having the other shutter speeds . But I would like to figure out the shutter speed I do have? Any suggestions on how to approximate the 1 shutter speed ?</p>

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<p>I suppose you could start with the sunny-16, 'f-stop' rule. <br /> On a sunny day, start by setting the aperture at f:16, and then bracket shots through the smaller, (next, higher number), apertures; ie...f:16, f:22, f:32, f:45, etc...<br /> Four or five bracketing shots should tell the story. Might not be a bad idea to start at f:11.<br /> Remember to write down the settings used with each frame, so you can compare notes after the film is processed.</p>

<p>Do you have a hand-held light meter? <br /> That would make comparisons of the finished photos much more informative, by knowing the exact light on the scene when the film was exposed.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

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<p>I bought a shutter tester on ebay a while back for $30 or so. Just do a search for that there and it should come up. Works perfectly, saved me a lot of money wasted on film that got exposed improperly. Your shutter probably just needs a good cleaning to get the speeds working properly. What I would do, although some people seem to react violently to this notion, is give it a good flush w/ lighter fluid. It should get things going again, assuming you don't have something broken in there, which is nearly never the case. It's almost always just crud in there.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the replys everyone ! For some reason I have not had particularity good luck when attempting any shutter repairs, or cleaning. So, on any of my cameras that I value I have a strict policy of "hands off".</p>

<p>Charles Monday did fix the shutter on my Speed Graphic, so I might get in contact with him . If all the speeds on the Vigilant worked I would probably use it more anyways. The 6x9 negative I find quite interesting, .</p>

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<p>From what you describe, my guess is that it is the camera's highest shutter speed that you are getting at all the settings. My rationale is that in many multi-speed leaf shutters there is basically just the one maximum speed, and then all slower speeds are obtained by an escapement mechanism which comes into play to progressively retard the closing of the shutter blades and give you the longer times. So if that mechanism doesn't get activated (something is broken or slipped out of place keeping the mechanism from "catching"), then you just get that same maximum speed regardless of the speed selected. I happen to have a Kodak Reflex TLR which exhibits exactly what you are describing, and this is my guess as to what is happening.</p>

<p>Having said that, note that the actual speed you are getting may still be slower than the maximum <em>labelled</em> speed, just from age, use, and the shutter needing service; and it might take a good overhaul (or at least a cleaning) to get it back up to speed. In any event, I think you should get fixed - those 6x9's can be a real hoot!</p>

<p>In the mean time, if you want to measure what that one shutter speed actually is, I can think of about <em>four </em>different DIY methods off the top of my head:</p>

<ol>

<li>The first involves the kind of shutter speed tester already mentioned. Google around and you will find lots of variations on this idea.</li>

<li>Another is the method of taking photographs of a moving (especially, rotating) object with a known speed and deducing the shutter speed by the blur trails produced. I haven't tried this myself, but it seems like a relatively simple method if you know the speed of your test subject very well, and don't mind having to make images and develop the film in order to get your answer.</li>

<li>The third is the one I actually use in practice most of the time, which makes use of a digital camera looking through the camera under test at a light source. The digital camera for this has to have manual mode and the ability to display histograms, and it assumes that the camera you are testing has a bulb mode. If you do a search for this idea I am sure you will find 2 or 3 good links.</li>

<li>Finally, there is a method which works great for anyone who still has an old CRT television or monitor. <a href="http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html">Rick Oleson has a good description of the method here</a>. It can be used for any camera that you can sight through while activating the shutter, and I find that it works surprisingly well.</li>

</ol>

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<p>Yes, the 6x9 is a real hoot.I do believe I will get the shutter serviced, it should outlast me then. I need to get in touch with a man to see what it will cost. But in the mean time I'll try Rick Oleson's method and see what happens.</p>

<p>Thanks to all for the reply's, appreciate it ! May all have a great day !!</p>

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