Lighting subject in working distances less than 1 inch

[juri_vosu]

I am having difficulty properly lighting extreme magnifications where the working distance is in the area of 1 inch. Suggestions are greatly

appreciated.

[Hector Javkin]

<p>What are you photographing? Will it pass light? Would you be happy if you could rake light sideways on your object? What kind of resolution do you need? Answers to these might help someone here to answer the question.<br>

<br /> Aside from optical microscopy, in which light is supplied from below the sample, the only photography I know about at such distances is done with a fiber-optic tube: a bundle of discrete fibers which transmits the image to the camera is surrounded by non-discrete fibers which provide a ringlight. If relatively low resolution is acceptable, a fiber-optics kits would work. Even if you don't have access to fiber-optics, this might suggest a very small lens with ringlight that you could implement. Good luck.</p>

[kohanmike]

<p>Here is a setup I put together since I already had two SB600 strobes. This setup is infinitely adjustable with the small ball heads and bracket with sliding mounts. The two quick release plates make it easy to attach and remove from the camera and from the tripod, but you can save yourself money by not using them. I set the strobes to half power.</p><div></div>

[JosvanEekelen]

<p>1. use a macro ringflash, these are available in several models and types;<br>

2. If possible: place your subject on a table or on the ground. Place a glass plate over it, at a 45 degree angle. Point the flash at the "open" side of the glass plate. Place the camera on top. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of this setup. <br />In this way the flash will be bounced from the glass to the subject, evenly lighting it. The downside is that you may see a double image, depending on the thickness and quality of the glass plate. This is similar to the pellicular mirror used in recent Sony cameras (and old Canon ones). (I'm not suggesting to cannibalize a Sony DSLR to test this setup).</p>

[juri_vosu]

Hector you seem to know exactly my problem. I am experimenting using an old Canon f3.5, 20mm macro lens, circa

1980s. Putting the object sideways I am able to get reasonably acceptable images in well lite surroundings but laying the

object on my copy stand develops a completely different problem. Under lighting the object does work for things like

crystal structures but I would like to work with solid objects. You have given me an answer using fiber optics and creating

a ring light. I thought of using small LEDs but your idea is much superior! Where is a good source for this? Thanks.

[jpb]

<p>Instead of lighting the object directly, why not try lighting strategically placed bounce cards: white for key and fill, silver for specularity (which my spell check suggests is not a word, but I'll insist otherwise), and black for negative fill?</p>

<p>I am working on a fiber optic set up now and am in post-production with the initial test images... looking hopeful...</p>

<p>In my opinion, a ring light is very useful for certain applications, but it's limited in the angles of creative lighting it allows. The angle it's best at is a hard one to sculpt.</p>

<p>Another idea I've toyed with is to slave a bunch of Edison type AC Slaves and snake them onto my sets with extension cords and household lamp sockets. You could trigger them any number of ways and they are cheap enough to have a bunch and come in various small sizes from what I've seen. I've never really messed around with low-budget strobes like AC slaves, but for detailed macro work, I've recently considered it on a whim... </p>

[juri_vosu]

Thanks James. I have just finished cutting a 0.8 inch hole in a reflective fast food cover and placing it in between the lens

and the lens mount. Now it is time to experiment! I am very interested in you fiber optic set up so please keep me in

touch. I am not sure what Edison type AC slaves look like. I will have to do some googling.

[Edwin Barkdoll]

<p>I have found a couple fiber optic illuminators on eBay to use with Nikon Multiphot and various Macro Nikkors at very short working distances. A variety of diffusers can be fashioned from things around the house to use with small objects, such as ping pong balls cut in half with a hole to shoot through, short cylinders or half cylinder reflectors made from cutting off styrofoam cups.</p>

<p>Attached is a macro shot of a dandelion using a transilluminated styrofoam cylinder, fiber optic illuminator, and 19mm or 35mm Macro Nikkor.</p><div></div>

[jpb]

<p>Edison Type, meaning like a screw in light bulb... there are other connection type as well. Just go to B&H or Adorama websites and search "AC Slave" or "AC Strobe." Good luck!</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>I've done macro shots through a 45 degree semi-silvered thin mirror (now broken unfortunately). This allows light to be thrown on the subject axially with the lens, giving a similar result to a ring light, but in a much more compact space and truly on the lens axis. A simple angled piece of optically flat glass works almost as well, with just a loss of efficiency. The glass needs to be uncoated and scrupulously clean. A cheap uncoated UV filter might do, but whether you'd be able to fit one into a 1" gap really depends on the diameter of the lens used.</p>

<p>Another option is to surround the subject with a white reflector - maybe a short length of white plastic plumbing tube - with a gap cut to shine light in sideways. The translucent "light pipe" idea is good as well, although I haven't tried it at such close distances. My currently preferred macro lens is a 50mm Apo-Rodagon enlarging lens, which obviously needs a minimum distance of around 50mm between subject and lens.</p>

[scott_murphy5]

<p>You always have the option of using a ring flash. I have used one for many years with great success.</p>

<p>I wrote a fairly in depth <a href="http://scottmurphyphotography.org/macrophotography.htm">article</a> on macrophotography and published it to my website. Perhaps it will answer some questions for you.</p>

[juri_vosu]

A very informative article you have produced! I really enjoyed reading it. Unfortunately most of your images are taken with

large working space where a ring flash works nicely. At working distance of around 1 inch the ring flash would not work. I

have the Nikon SB 200 macro flash system and still have trouble getting light into the 1 inch clearance.

[Edwin Barkdoll]

Here's a shot of a setup with a half ping pong ball as diffuser and triple gooseneck fiber optic light source. The lens us just

about 3/4 inch from the subject.

 

The thing to be careful of here is raking the light across the front lens surface can cause significant glare. I usually will

place a small shield to prevent that.<div></div>

[juri_vosu]

<p>Thanks Edwin. I greatly apprechiate your image showing how to do it. I was wondering instead of the triple fiber optic gooseneck if I could use small key chain type of LEDs. I will give it a try.</p>

[Edwin Barkdoll]

<p>LED technology has improved dramatically with very bright and inexpensive ones available now.<br>

You could use a cheap 2 arm soldering stand to hold the LED's fixed.</p><div></div>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>I'll second the LED thought - for extreme close-ups of small objects, I just place some cheap LED torches nearby. Some come with flexible cabling, which helps. I bought some cheap coloured LED key fob torches and replaced one of the reds with a high brightness blue LED - I can now do crude light colour balancing by combining three torches... Strobes are very nice, but if you're 1" away, an LED is pretty bright.</p>