202fa

[ian_humphrey]

<p>I bought a hassy 202fa with 220 back and fe 4.8/60-120 lens. I only use 120 film as 220 is almost impossible to get and can I expect to experience any problems. Also is it possible to use the camera hand held at reasonably fast shutter speeds. Any comment on using this set up would be helpful.<br>

Many thanks<br>

Ian</p>

[wai_leong_lee]

<p>Yeah. 120 film won't work well in a 220 back. You'll need to stop down quite a bit. That rules out fast shutter speeds.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

No need to stop down quite a bit, as Wai-Leong suggests. There is no difference between how the 120 and 220 backs keep film flat. Both do it equally well with either type of film.<br><br>What you will run into problems with is frame spacing. Frame spacing will increase and you will not get 12 frames on a roll of 120 film when you run it through a 220 back. And you need to remember to stop after 11 exposures.<br><br>You can handhold that camera as well as most other cameras, yes.

[paul_loveteck]

<p>Using a 24 back with 120 film is a pretty bad idea: not only you will only get 11 frames (as Q.G. already said), but if you want to scan your negative you will have to do it one picture at a time as most scanners won't work correctly otherwise, because of the uneven spacing.<br>

Buy an A12 (or E12 etc. . .), and try to sell your 24 back if you can.<br>

Or, better, sell your 202fa and buy a good 503CW with an A12, you might end-up with some cash and a better system, but this is another subject.<br>

And, as Q.G. also said, of course, you can use any Hasselblad hand-held.</p>

 

[wai_leong_lee]

<p>120 film has backing paper, 220 doesn't. The film position is therefore slightly above the intended film plane and thus stopping down is required. Despite that, sharpness is still compromised.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

No, i'm afraid you got that wrong Wai-Leong.<br><br>The correct position for the film is against the film gate.<br>What happens behind that - paper or no paper - is of no importance. So what is needed is a pressure plate that is capable of pushing the film against the film gate. And the plate in both 120 and 220 Hasselblad backs is. All spring loaded pressure plates are. The small difference in thickness - film alone vs film plus backing paper - makes no difference.<br><br>So sharpness will not (!) be compromised. And no (!) need for extra stopping down.

[steve_mareno1]

<p>I would go w/ the back that's designed for your chosen film. Hassys are prone to all sorts of unique problems anyway, such as locking up and freezing. I used to carry a long, thin screwdriver for times when that would happen. If it were me, I wouldn't add to the variables, or to the already known quirks, by using a back designed for a different film than I was shooting. That's just tempting the fates.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

And that's just scaremongery.<br><br>In many decades of using quite a few Hasselblads, i only had one 'jam'. That was caused by a known to be defective automatic bellows. It was done to quickly demonstrate the problem with the bellows to a Hasselblad repair tech.<br><br>And running 120 film through a 220 back (though i wouldn't do it, with 120 backs not being scarce) wil add nothing at all to the already minute risk of a jam occuring.<br><br>The best thing to do to avoid jams is to read the manual. The second best is not to use equipment that was used to bits. Have old stuff serviced.

[leicaglow]

I hae only had a jam once in the tens of thiusands of images I have taken with Hasselblads. It was likely because of a

hard knock on an aerial assignment, but I sent it in for an overdue service and it has never happened since.