Creating a backdrop stand with light stands

[miriam_sushman]

<p>Has anyone used light stands to create a backdrop stand that holds material? I will use the backdrop for infant portraiture. I already have a hot shoe that screws on to the top and has a hole on the side. I am wondering what kind of cross bar can fit into that hole. Of course I would need a second hot shoe for the other side. I have done some research on kits but would like to use what I already own if possible. Thank you in advance for any answers.</p>

[mark_sirota1]

<p>A superclamp on top of either stand, and a crossbar of some sort (broom stick, extendable paint pole, etc.), plus spring clamps to hold the backdrop to the crossbar.</p>

[Jeremy Stein]

<p>I use two sturdy light stands, one on each side. I run a piece of conduit (1" dia tubing, as long as needed) through the center of a roll of background paper, and I tie a loop of cord to each end of the conduit. Then I hook the loop on each end over the clamp knob for the light stand on that end. That gives me a crossbar for the background, adjustable to the needed height. It's cheap and quick and it all breaks down and stores in a small space.</p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

I put a Manfrotto Super Clamp on top of the light stands (the sturdier the better, but Manfrotto's standard 9 foot stands will

do and then use a pole between them. I think RPS makes the collapsible 2 piece metal pole I use but I got it a long time

ago. 1" diameter conduit, metal or PVC will work, as will a 1" diameter wooden dowell. The important thing is that this

horizontal piece be about a foot longer on both ends than background material.

 

If using 9 foot wide seamless paper or muslin I use 5 "A" type spring clamps: 1 on each end the other three on the end of

the tail.

 

If you are the only person setting it up start with the stands at minimum height and go back and forth between the stands

raising the height grandually till you have it at the height needed.

 

If the seamless is being draped over a narrower table it help to tear arcs off at the corners so the weight of the in

supported section does not cause a kink or wrinkle in the area you want to be smooth.

 

Try to allow enough distance from where the subject will be located and the vertical " wall" so you can get both a nice

smooth curve and also can light the "wall" seperately.

 

Speaking of lighting, if you want that infinite background effect light the set from above and not the front or the sides of

the set with as large a source as you have. I like to put a scrim over the top of the set. If you have a white ceiling

bouncing the light off of that works okay. But with a scrim you can really control the quality of the light and how it falls off

towards the front or rear of the set.

[Matt Laur]

<p>If you get a pair of super clamps <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018LQVIA/?tag=nmphotonet-20"><strong>like these</strong></a>, and a couple of 039 u-hooks <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M4HTDO/?tag=nmphotonet-20"><strong>like these</strong></a>, and then use them clamped to a vertical stand section, you can use a multi-section backdrop bar, or just a piece of $8 conduit from the hardware store. Done.<br /><br />Here's a picture of a piece of hardware store conduit (holding a roll of seamless background paper) supported by a 039 hook mounted to a super clamp. The clamp, in this case, is grabbing onto a section of autopole, but could just as easily be hanging onto part of a light stand.<br /><br />Like this:<br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00a/00acOr-482535584.jpg" alt="" width="481" height="700" /><br />Nothing to it, and very versatile.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Most background supports are two lights stands with a crossbar, so what you're talking about is standard practice. (The Savage Polevault I have and some others aren't a standard lightstand, but it's essentially the same thing.) <br />Bogen/Manfrotto clamps and fittings as others have show will allow you to run a piece of pipe, electrical conduit or closet rod across the top.<br />Before having a proper background stand, I used a piece of copper water pipe with 90-degree elbows attached to the ends. Depends on the size of the top section of your lightstands, but anything from a half-inch to three-quarter-inch pipe/elbow should fit right over it. You can do the same with steel pipe or electrical conduit. You could also drill a hole through a pipe or closet pole, provided you have a big enough drill and small enough lightstand top.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>I have a collapsible crossbar made explicitely for holding a backdrop. It's 8' wide with three sections and a clamp for a 5/8" light stand stud at each end. You twist each section to lock it in place. I've had it so long the labels have worn off and I forget which brand it is, but I bought it from B&H. I use it for location shoots, both still and video, using 8'x12' muslin backdrops.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>I have a collapsible crossbar made explicitely for holding a backdrop. It's 8' wide with three sections and a clamp for a 5/8" light stand stud at each end. You twist each section to lock it in place. I've had it so long the labels have worn off and I forget which brand it is, but I bought it from B&H. I use it for location shoots, both still and video, using 8'x12' muslin backdrops.</p>

[miriam_sushman]

<p>Thank you for all these answers! PhotoNet does not forward answers to my emails and that is why I am so late in responding. I am pleased that I can work with what I already own. Matt, I appreciate that you posted an image and links.</p>