federico_prieto Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 as you know, i have a pair of months with the m8, and i have a doubt: has any sense to use the compensation of exposition or in a simple way i just change the aperture o the shutter speed? any comments about? When is useful to use the compensation? Regards Fp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mukul_dube Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 <p>Compensation is needed when the scene is such that the exposure meter is fooled. A common example is a person's face against a bright background. With auto exposure, changing aperture or shutter speed will let in the same amount of light by altering the other variable.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbon_dragon Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 I prefer aperture priority with compensation. Since digital frames are cheap and since I can delete them, I often shoot and look at the histogram and the image and decide if I need to compensate. While you have the M8, put a dark infrared filter on it, say an R72 and try some infrared photography. The M8 may be the only camera you can switch easily back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumpton Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 <p>One way is to meter a scene in automatic and then manually adjust shutter speed or f-stop to compensate for backlighting effect on the meter reading, exposure error of bright sand or snow (which tends to 12 to 18% grey tone, or other situation. This is done very easily in the head, and can be checked visually on playback or via the histogram feedback of the selected area. The M8 is a charm to use.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
federico_prieto Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Ok thanks a lot for your comments. when I have backlight, I use the Plumpton recomendation. I understand it is more easy than configure the expo compensation. I feel this is a similar way to fix the "potential problemm. I am right? Now i have another question..... How can I do for I to read in a correct way the histogram? Any tips about? Warm regards Federico Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumpton Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 <p>Federico, the best tip I have obtained was from a British photographer who insisted that best image quality is obtained when you have the histogram as close as possible to the right side, that is to the high intensity or white values. In that way you can control the information to minimize noise as this region of the histogram contains the most image forming pixels. While I had previously been capturing all the information within the histogram I had been underexposing and placing the histogram too much towards the left side (dark values). This requires correction in post processing and when doing so the fact that we are on the left side of the histogram means thst we miss much detail in the dark values and these values have few pixels. Unless you want blown out highlights and/or featureless shadows or dark areas, the histogram information must always be within the boundaries of the histogram with as much of the information as possible within the right side and utlizing a much greater number of pixels.</p> <p>I hope this helps. Note also that you can use the overall histogram or those referenced to the specific base colours. I usually use the overall histogram, as displayed on most cameras.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
federico_prieto Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 <p>Thanks for the tip Arthur</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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