2 bodies, image sequence?

[dds701]

I'm doing a VIP dinner event on a new facility dedication venue.

I plan to use two Canon bodies one 40D and the second one 60D.

Both will have flash and wondering about lens applications and image sequencing.

 

My initial thought was to go with one body with 18-270 zoom and one with 50mm?

 

The other thing is if I'm using two bodies, how to get the images married together in proper sequence during

post processing?

 

Suggestions?

DougI'm doing a VIP dinner event on new facility dedication type venue.

I plan to use two Canon bodies one 40D and the second one 60D.

Both will have flash and wondering about lens applications and image sequencing.

 

My initial thought was to go with one body with 18-270 zoom and one with 50mm?

 

The other thing is if I'm using two bodies, how to get the images married together in proper sequence during

post processing?

 

Suggestions?

Doug

[lornesunley]

<p>Use the timestamp in the image file. Also, can you set the camera so that it has a different three letter start to the file name on each camera?</p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>"if I'm using two bodies, how to get the images married together in proper sequence during post processing?"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>1. Sync the two camera’s times and dates prior to the shoot.<br>

2. After the shoot and as the FIRST Post Production step, download all the files into a folder, then open that folder in PS Bridge (or other Programme capable of sorting by 'date/time created') Select > View > Sort > By Date Created.<br>

3. Then re-number each image. Tools > Batch Rename.<br>

<strong>N.B.</strong> If you open the files in any other programme(s) before sorting and re-numbering as per above or by any similar method: you run the risk of changing the “date created”.</p>

<p>***</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>"wondering about lens applications . . . my initial thought was to go with one body with 18-270 zoom and one with 50mm?"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>But what other lens(es) do you have available?</p>

<p>WW</p>

[markonestudios]

<p>Both Lorne and WW have hit nails on heads. 2 weekends ago, I ended up shooting with 3 bodies. My XTi and my 5D2 are time-synchronised. However, the XTi's shutter release started to act up, so I swapped it with my assistant's 60D in the heat of the shoot (which was not time-synchronised, as I came to find out later). Lightroom made a breeze of it though, synchronising the time-stamp after the fact.</p>

<p>I usually download the images from my cameras into separate folders. However, when I run them through lightroom, I import the main folder containing both subfolders so it loads <em>all</em> images. Once done, I then export them into a unified 'final edit' folder. As has been suggested, I then use Bridge to rename and resize them in time-sequence into another folder. Finally, I resize them to suit the res I shall provide the client. </p>

[sarah_fox]

<p>You can also sync the two cameras and upload/rename the files using DIM:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.alanlight.com/dim/Dim.htm">http://www.alanlight.com/dim/Dim.htm</a></p>

<p>This is freeware that renames your files however you set it up, including by date and time. It works very well, and I use it to intermix images from my 5D, 40D, and G11. My files are organized by day folders, nested inside month folders, nested inside year folders.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>^ Thanks Sarah.<br>

Neat programme - do you use the Autorun option? ('autorun upon seeing a card reader')</p>

<p>WW</p>

[sarah_fox]

<p>I just run it manually. I actually have to select a different source folder anyway, depending on which camera's files I'm uploading. The G11 is my "different" camera. I use auto import to throw its files into a "G11" folder on my HD. Then I use that folder as the source for DIM, so that the files get renamed and copied to my intermixed folder system.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>OK. Thanks for the details.<br>

<br /> That appears similar to what I do now, but not using DIM. DIM seems very good for my uses - I have a SX40HS which is my “different” camera; it contains mainly Video Files but with Stills intermingled between. The Stills from the Powershot are always only references for the Video Files. I then have my main (still) Image Files from my DSLRs.<br>

I am going to play with DIM over this weekend to coordinate and file all the Videos and Images. On first glance, it seems that DIM is very slick and will make my categorising easier than how I used to do it.<br>

Thanks again this has been a real find, for me.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[dds701]

WW: I have 3 Canon lenses, 1-50mm f1.4 II, 1-10-22mm f3.5-45 USM, 1- 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS/AF

and 1- Tamron 18-270 f3.5-6.3AF/IS.

I plan to use 580EX II Speedlites on both the 40D and 60D.

 

Lorne and Sarah, thanks for your info. DIM is a nice program.

 

Mark, thank you for tips.

 

WW and Mark, I believe I was losing the sequence in Photoshop Elements post processing, I have Lightroom 2, but just haven't made good use of it, and I don't have Bridge system.

 

For scenics and such I usually shoot RAW, however I have not shot RAW in the one VIP type event and 2 weddings I have done when I had way less equipment, (sometimes simple might be best) so what is the thought process from you folks on that? I have 1- 2.0 GB and 2-4.0 GB and 1 16GB CF memory cards.

 

Thanks,

Doug

[William Michael]

<p>Thanks for the lens info.</p>

<p>You’ll know the layout of the venue better than I, but I don’t think longer than FL =135mm on an APS-C will be warranted for such a function.<br /> <br /> Wiith no knowledge of the venue: from that range of lenses I would typically choose the two zooms – 10 to 22 and 28 to 135.<br /> <br /> I wouldn’t expect that Available Light will figure much in the range of shots you will make – and if it does, a 50mm Prime (on APS-C) is a bit long (usually), for this type of function, where typically one will be shooting closer rather than farther to make the Half Shot in horizontal framing of a group of two, three, four . . . etc.</p>

<p>A scene setter made in Avaialble Light would be more typical - and for that you could (I would) manipulate the 10 to 22 with a steady braced shot maybe down to 1/8s - I would not take a tripod.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[dds701]

WW, its a new hospital reception, all I know now is that it will be held in "new hospital lobby/tent"

with company VIPs, corporate staff and elected officials enjoying the event".

 

And I think you are right on the lens choices, thank you. You can't cover everything, but 10-135 for an "indoor" event should work well.

 

Thanks for the feed back.

Doug

[markonestudios]

<p>Just to chime in on your other question that infers shooting RAW, I will not be the one to start a flame war here :) ...I shoot JPEG. I have only rarely shot RAW, and never at weddings and events. My workflow is tweaked for this. I understand RAW and what it can do, but I find that my jpegs have sufficient dynamic range that I haven't needed to shoot RAW regularly. Some background: I started with film, and those days there was far less margin for error as far as capturing the found moment. So in that respect I tried to get it right, in-camera. I suspect that is why I am comfortable with my jpegs :) Others views may (and definitely will) vary.</p>

<p>I recently shot a cultural wedding where I took far more shots than usual. I had a couple of 8GB cards. Didn't even come close to filling one, with circa 800 images on my 5D2. I advocate for whatever file format you are comfortable with and which will enable you produce the quality of final images you desire and that your client expects.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>OK - I've done those.</p>

<p>Sight unseen (using my kit) I would use (1) APS-C Format Camera and (1) 135 Format Camera (i.e. a "Full Frame Camera").<br>

Lenses mounted - 16 to 35 on the APS-C and 50/1.4 on the FF<br>

(if I knew it was a BIG tent) I would mount the 85/1.8 and not the 50/1.4 on the FF (maybe also take the 50/1.4 and keep it in my pocket).<br>

Those two lenses effectively gives me 16 to 80ish (equivalent FL on a FF camera) and that I have found would be suitable or most of these functions – so surely you will be covered with equivalent FL 16mm to 216mm – that was the first part my thinking for you.</p>

<p>You probably are questioning why I would take a 50 Prime mounted on the FF, if I already have a FL =35mm capacity on my APS-C – kind of doubling up you ask? – well - it is for IMMEDIATE system redundancy: my APS-C + 16 to 35 would be my main working rig in that situation – but if the FLASH or the APS-C Camera goes down – then the FF camera and the 50mm lens (and its own Flash) can take up the shooting without interruption and until I could re-gig the arrangement or get to a back-up body or flash.</p>

<p>With your set up either camera and lens can be the main working rig, as around 22mm or 28mm (on APS-C) is where I expect you will hover – maybe the 28 to 135 will get bit more work I expect. But you have that system redundancy built in as you could carry on if either Camera or either Flash goes down - and that too, was what I was thinking for you.</p>

<p>(Also you might ask why I would not take a 24 to 70 and a 16 to 35 and two FF cameras – the answer is, because I don’t use a 24 to 70 – but that 16 to 35 and 24 to 70 combination would be OK to use – BUT I would NEED a 50mm lens for my ‘system redundancy’ and IMO that lens and (two) FF camera combo is NOT as effective as my dual format kit – and that’s why I don’t have a 24 to 70).</p>

<p>If you had a 35/2 or 28/1.8 I would suggest to pop that lens in your pocket (probably would not use it but especially the 35/2 is small enough for in the pocket as a good workable second back up)- but a 50/1.8 is not really worthwhile IMO - Flashes and Cameras are more likely to go down than a lens.</p>

<p>WW<br>

<strong> </strong></p>

[William Michael]

<p><em>"I shoot JPEG. I have only rarely shot RAW, and never at weddings and events. . . "</em><br /> :)</p>

<p>***</p>

<p>@ Doug – I shoot 'raw + JPEG(L)' mostly always. I often use only the JPEG file. I generally use big cards.<br /> If you are comfortable in your ability - I see little reason to suggest to you that you ‘should’ shoot raw, for this event.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[dds701]

Thanks WW and Mark,

Appreciate the info/suggestions. Its so nice to have experienced folks to throw stuff to and get info back here on Photo.net.

Felt like I had it covered however lack of experience at VIP type events had me questioning if I wished to pursue this. I look at it as a great op and gaining much needed experience.

Thanks .

Doug

[William Michael]

<p>you are welcome - it seems you are squared away: Good Luck with it.</p>