Advise on Tripod Collar Replacement for Nikon AF-S 300mm F4 Nikkor lens

[tony_black1]

<p>Hi everyone,<br>

I have just bought this <strong>Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4</strong> lens for my nikon D800E. i have been testing all day, and I have found impossible to get a sharp image on infinity focus. I have tried everything from self timer to mirror lock up to iso 800 at 1/400. However I can get a sharp image when i focus to 10 to 20ft.<br>

What could be the problem? Is it the Nikon collar and if it is which one do you recommend? <strong>Kirk</strong> or <strong>RRS</strong>?<br>

Thanks for your time. </p>

[bob_sunley]

<p>A, does it focus to infinity? Bump the iso speed and use 1/1000 or faster shutter speed for starters. Is that the lens with the crappy tripod collar/foot? See Bjorn's website, http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html</p>

<p> </p>

[frank_skomial]

<p>Burzynski's collar.</p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>Yes, this lens has a crappy tripod collar; some time ago I replaced it and it is a world of difference. I have the Kirk Collar, it's steady.<br>

However, I can't say for sure it would solve the problem you have here. The problem with the wobbly collar shows mostly at medium-low speeds (1/100-1/5 more or less), and in my experience is not very related to the focus distance. If possible try the lens on another body, see if it's OK there, and as Bob suggests, at much higher shutter speeds.</p>

[carl_becker2]

<p>I purchased a used AF-S 300mm that came with the Kirk collar. From your post I don't think the collar is the problem with your shutter speed. IMHO you would be better off looking at auto focus adjustment. Can you get a sharp image using live view and manual focus at the distance you are having problems with?</p>

[tony_black1]

<p>It focuses to infinity however i couldn't get any steady sharp shots. I will go to BH store in ny to try out the new collars today. Thank you guys.</p>

[keith_b1]

<p>Be aware that the "danger zone" of shutter speeds between about 1/125 and 1 sec is real, and even a 300/afs with a Kirk collar(on a D3 in my case) will blur in this shutter speed range IF the tripod is inadequate or defective. I have a moderately hefty old Gitzo Studex with a lockable Gitzo pan/tilt head, and I'll commonly get the danger zone blur from this rig because( I currently believe) the mounting surface on the head is ribbed polyethylene---it gives and flexes underneath what's mounted on it.<br>

One little plastic part destroys the usefulness of an otherwise decent tripod.</p>

[tony_black1]

<p>so is it impossible to do night time photography with long exposures with this 300mm lens??</p>

[bob_sunley]

<p>No, but what do you consider a long exposure? 1 sec, 15 sec, 5 minutes? You need a rock solid mount for this lens and your camera. Nikon didn't help by putting a crappy mounting collar on the les to start with.</p>

 

[ilkka_nissila]

<p>It is indeed important to have a very good, solid head, and a quick release system which has no play (i.e. no soft surfaces anywhere) if you plan to use a long lens at slow speeds with consistent success. The Arca-Swiss QR system is implemented by several manufacturers of heads and it is a good choice.</p>

<p>I used the Burzynski collar with the 300/4 AF-S and it was great. Of course, using a cable release and live view mode to make sure that there is no unnecessary vibration is helpful, but I think with a good tripod, a good head, and a good tripod collar it should be possible to get good results with the 300mm even without locking the mirror up (via Live view on the D800). (With the D3 live view the mirror isn't locked up just before the exposure so D3/D3X/D3s/D700 users need to switch to M-UP or self-timer+exposure delay mode for the exposure).</p>

[ilkka_nissila]

<p>Long distances can be tough to focus and you should use live view to focus either manually or automatically. The turn on the manual focus ring is also very quick and some patience is needed. Remember that atmosphere degrades image quality also and this can be a big factor at long distances, it can make focusing more difficult and the image itself less clear. Stopping down to f/5.6 should give the best image quality. If you have the money, you can also try the 300/2.8; I suspect that it might be better at very long distances (based on anecdotal evidence, not my own testing).</p>

[dan_mccarty1]

<p>I just returned 300mm/F4.0 I rented for a couple of weeks. I used it mostly on my D700 until the D800 FINALLY arrived after three months. I took quite a few handheld and tripod mounted photos on the D700 at close and long distances. I used a TC1.4 as well. I did not have any problems with sharpness. I only got one long range image with the D800 and 300mm/F4.0-TC 1.4. The shot was a Heron sitting in a pine tree a good 100 yards away across a river. The image was handheld and the only reason I took the photo was to see how well a heavy crop would work from a D800. The wifey wanted me to print the image. I think it was cropped too much but it was usable in spite of me hand holding and really needing some support. </p>

<p>I was mostly using a high shutter speed, often at 1600-2000 but I think a few might have been around 1/500 which is pushing it a bit. </p>

<p>I have a Benbo tripod which has worked well for me for decades. However I was using the center post extended all of the way to be at eye level which can be problematic. I could see the camera move due to the shutter taking a photo. I was using a corded remote shutter release and I was using the tripod collar on the 300mm/4.0 lens. Since the shutter speed was high enough it did not matter. If I was using lower shutter speeds the tripod configuration would have to have been changed and maybe the collar. I have read about the 300mm/4.0's collar issues but I am not sure that is why I was seeing the camera shake. My first change would have been to lower the tripod's center post.</p>

<p>Later,<br>

Dan</p>

[rjmelone]

<p>Hi Tony, so is it at night time with long exposures where you are having problems with this lens? If it is, there are many variables with getting sharp images. I'm no expert with nighttime photography, but let me say that I have this lens and have not had any problems using it handheld during the day, or with the stock collar. Give the lens a try during the day and see what happens. If they are good, then technique may be the issue, or there is always the possibility that the lens needs adjustment. Best of luck!</p><div></div>

[tony_black1]

<p>I just got the kirk collar and start testing it. so far it looks ok. i guess it is also about what you shoot at infinity focus. if it is a tree , it will not be as sharp as a bird i guess. i will do some nite shots tnite and will let you know the results. thanks for your very helpful comments by the way. </p><div></div>

[tony_black1]

<p>Do you guys think this is a sharp image? it is nite time shot around couple seconds on D800E. </p>