Rolleiflex 3.5F and Rolleiflex Model T - Compared

[colin_whittle]

You may have seen my earlier post reference the borrowed 3.5F.

This is owned by an ex British Army Photographer, and I 'have the use

of it'.

As pointed out it's a 3.5F with Zeiss Planer lens, meter not working.

Through a contact I have managed to locate a supply (7 to be exact)

Rolleiflex also Ex Army (This is not an ad so bare with me).

They are apparently Model T's with Tessar lenses, serial number of

one of them is 2316380, they have no meters according to the guy

selling them (and for some strange reason one of them is grey not

black).

 

What are the differences between the two cameras 3.5F and T?

Will the differences make much impact to me as a relative novice?

 

As I don't use the meter anyhow this shouldn't be a problem and

regarding image quality I don't imagine much difference in the lenses

if my reading of earlier posts is correct?.

I can buy one complete with leather case and strap for £175, but it

hasn't got the lens cover.

I have to buy sight unseen but will have 30days full refund on it.

To me it sounds like a bargain or is the T so much cheaper than the

3.5F

Thanks,

[richard_srienz]

Yes, there is a difference. The meter is not important. The big difference is the Tessar. They are good lenses too. But the Planar is a lot better wide open. The Tessar is good at f/11 or f/16. Contrast and sharpness are much better with the Planar if you use large aperture.

If you 'have the use of it', use the Rollie with the Planar of your friend and if you see a good one sometimes, then buy it.

[andrew_schank]

Theoretically, the Planar wil give better results at the wider apertures, but my actual results in the field with a 3.5 F and a Cord with the Xenar (Schneider's equivalent of the Tessar)have shown both lenses to be excellent throughout their apertures, but both do better stopped down. Some of this has to do with film flatness which can be a problem in TLR's especially if film stays in the camera for a while(this has been covered in depth in the archives). The 3.5 F has a bit better finder than the T. Another concern is condition of the cameras and lenses. Any fogging or seperation in the taking lens quickly renders even the Planar into a low contrast optic.

 

If you pick up a Rollei with return priveledge, be sure to check all the speeds out especially the slow ones. Fire the camera on the B setting wide open, and shine a flashlight through the lens while looking from the other side to check for lens troubles. Make sure to run the roll film under the rollers or the film counter and transport system will not function. Good luck--I love both my old Rolleis.

[mark_wrathall]

Hi Colin, as I responded in your last post, I have a Rollei T. The T has a coupled Aperture/Shutter speed system. Basically the idea was that the meter would give you EV (exposure Value) which you set on your camera, then you only have one lever to select which of the equivelent exposures you want. This is kind of like a manual version of the shiftable program mode.

 

In operation, you pull out that one lever, and are adjusting aperture alone, (setting the relationship between it and shutter speed), with the lever in, coupling is engauged and shutter goes up as aperture goes down. If you know the Aperture/Shutter speed you want, you just rotate the lever to the shutter speed, then pull it out and rotate it to aperture. Done.

 

I understand it and it works fine, but offers no real advantages over just setting the two separately. Some people really hate it. On mine, the card which indicates the selected aperture has become detached internally from the lever, so I have no indication of aperture selected (actually lever position indicates this, so I never bothered to fix it - I just stuck a label with the apertures on the front). The shutter speed indicator has 1/500-1sec in white and then the slower speeds in green. Actually the slower speeds don't exist, these are just a way to tell you how long to hold the shutter open as you are now in Bulb.

 

The slow shutters may well stick or be slow. Be sure you set it on bulb, open the aperture wide, remove the back (simple latch) and inspect the taking lens while holding it to the light with the shutter open. Mine has a little mold in the taking lens.

 

This is a thirty+ year old fine mechanical device, if you want to be able to rely on it, budget a CLA into the purchase. This will likely cost more than the camera.

 

The T was a lower model in Rollei's range, (kind of like saying today that the 501 is a lower model in the Hasselblad range - Rollei didn't make disposable consumer junk). It is a great camera, and the Tessar is still a good lens. There are better lenses, but the tessar is still capable of a great job.

 

All that said, I think you would be best served using the borrowed Rollei F. A mechanical shutter needs regular exercise, so it is better for your friends camera that you use it rather than it sits around. Basically all the Rollei's are so similar, you will either love them so much you want a 2.8F Planer or Xenotar, or you will decide you are better served with a different form of MF camera.

 

If you want to see what a grey one looks like, try ebay, as the ads are often illustrated.

[victor_randin]

Colin, seems, the best choice would be the Rolleiflex 3.5F 4 or 5th version in best condition. The T is very good too, but cheaper. I have both of them and more. The T� Tessar is better than all previous Tessars. You could compare it:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0003e1

 

Best.

Victor

[j._patric_dahl_n]

I have many Rollei TLR's and must say that the Tessar is a superb lens! Planar is a little better than the Tessar wide open, but how often do you shoot with that aperture? I sometimes do when I take portraits, but then the sharpness in the edges isn't imprtant. The Tessar is so sharp that one can read 1 cm small text from 75 meters! (with Tech Pan film). The T camera has a bright viewing screen just as the F cameras. Get the one you like most, that is in the best condition. JMHO