Why do we love Pentax?

[jenniferfraser]

<p>Ok - so first of all let me say that I am no expert....and I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge....<br>

<br />I bought a Pentax K200D and an 18-250mm lens a good few years back and I must say that for a beginner like me, I love it. But as I've gotten more and more interested in upgrading and buying new equipment and seeing just how expensive this hobby is....I've tried to buy things second hand. But I've noticed that there is so few options for Pentax - everything is Canon and Nikon. <br>

<br />I know that some different items are compatible....but I wanted to buy a flash and there just weren't any flashes for Pentax available second hand (unlike the many for Canon or Nikon).<br>

<br />And I've noticed a few treads of Pentax lovers mentioning in frustration that the prices of Pentax lenses keep rising. Why is this? <br>

<br />I'd like to upgrade my camera body in the next year, but for now I am in the market for some lenses......but it makes me wonder, should I switch brands? I'd love to pick up camera gear second hand to play around and perhaps then I should switch. <br>

So many people (both professional and so many amateur) seem to have other brands - so I wonder if I should too....ok I realize this makes me seem like a sheep following the herd. But why, I'd like to know, are so many others loving Canons and Nikons.<br>

<br />Please be kind - I really don't know much and I'd love to hear your thoughts. Perhaps Pentax is a more professional brand? Or is it just more a no frills camera without all the advertising and hupla? I just want to be sure that I should stick with it before I buy more equipment....and what better place to ask then here.<br>

So I ask you: Why do YOU love Pentax?<br>

Thank you Pentax experts!<br />J</p>

[personalphotos]

<p>To start with, switching brands isn't going to save you money, new or second hand. Actually it will be just the opposite. There was a few months this year when Pentax raised lens prices to be more in line with Canon and Nikon and then dropped the prices back to nearly the pre-increase prices. I assume because sales dried up. If you look at a lens like the 50-135mm f2.8 which would be the equivalent to a FF Nikon or Canon 70-200mm f2.8, the Pentax price is far lower even when new. <br /> P= $899, C=$2299, N= $2399<br /> Then consider a mid range zoom. The Pentax would be the 16-50mm f2.8 and on FF the Canon/Nikon would be the 24-70mm f2.8<br /> P=$899.00 C=$2399 Nikon= $1899.00<br /> Nikon 17-55mm f2.8 $1399.00 Canon 17-55mm f2.8 $1099.00<br /> Flashes are not as expensive but Pentax prices are about 20% less. Then there are all the older Pentax and Takumar lenses you can get. Current bodies are comparable to the Nikon and Canon APSc offerings.</p>

<p>Where there is a difference and why pros or similar shooters are drawn to Nikon or Canon is the Full Frame body offerings that these 2 have and Pentax does not. For the casual shooter, this is of no concern and shouldn't worry anyone whi doesn't earn their living with a camera.</p>

<p>The grass may look greener but it isn't. Get a nice K-5 and start researching the lenses you will need for your type of shooting.</p>

<p> </p>

[DWScott]

<p>Peter's price comparison is very good. I have dabbled in Nikon over the years, with a few cameras and a few good lenses. I inevitably decide I can't actually afford to build a complete system. Anyone who thinks Pentax prices are too high haven't seriously looked into Nikon and Canon.</p>

<p>Let's consider one of Pentax's greatest strengths -- high quality prime lenses (i.e. fixed focal length.) Pentax Limited lenses are universally well regarded, by shooters of all brands. Pentax offers 9 different Limited lenses, ranging from 15mm to 77mm focal lengths. The price (at BH Photo for reference) ranges from 370 US dollars to 989 US dollars. The average price of a Pentax Limited lens is 614 US dollars. Expensive?</p>

<p>Canon also is well regarded for their L-series lenses. Canon offers many L-series prime lenses, but let's compare similar focal lengths with Pentax. Canon offers 7 L-series prime lenses ranging from 14mm to 85mm focal lengths. The price ranges from 1379 US dollars to 2329 US dollars. The average price is 1876 US dollars.</p>

<p>Both sets of lenses from both companies are regarded as top grade. If your concern is image quality and professional build in prime lenses, you will be pleased with either. The price difference is huge.</p>

<p>But Canon's L-series primes are aimed at a more specific photographer. Nearly all of the Canon lenses are faster (i.e. they let more light in) allowing you to shoot in darker conditions and to accentuate shallow focus. If you need to shoot in dodgy light, and get razor-thin focus, you might want to choose Canon -- even though it will cost you a 1000+ premium per lens. If you need tilt-shift lenses for architecture, you will also choose Canon. Two of those lenses are tilt-shift (remarkably the tilt-shift lenses aren't really more expensive than other Canon L lenses, which suggests that either the tilt-shifts are a bargain or that all the other L lenses are overpriced :-)</p>

<p>Bottom line is, if Pentax offer the cameras and lenses you need, there is no need to be jealous or look elsewhere. If you have a need that Pentax doesn't fill, Nikon or Canon might be able to help out because their line of products is huge and offers many choices that Pentax does not.</p>

<p>Many professionals use only a small number of lenses for most of their work. These folks can be very happy with Pentax. Take a look at the work of Benjamin Kanarek -- he shoots fashion with a small number of lenses and Pentax cameras, and his results speak for themself.</p>

<p>Other professionals need (or feel they need) the ability to shoot in any circumstance. They sleep better knowing that they can rent an 800mm f/5.6 lens if that's required by a client. These are the folks best served by Nikon or Canon.</p>

[DWScott]

<p>To answer your original question, why do I love Pentax?</p>

<p>They make a sturdy, handsome camera that feels good in my hands. They give you image stabilization in the camera, instead of charging for it on every lens. I really like the way Pentax digital cameras render an image. I really like the look given by most Pentax lenses. I enjoy being able to share lenses with my classic Pentax film cameras.</p>

<p>And yes, occasionally I wish Pentax made a K-5 with a Nikon F-mount, and that Nikon made a D800 with a Pentax K-mount.</p>

[peter_russell4]

<p>My first reason to love Pentax is they are faithful to the K-mount over nearly 40 years.<br>

Not to mention a simple adapter to mount my original lens, the Super Takumar 50mm 1.4 as well.<br>

If you are looking at upgrading, the K-5 is a great price these days. Lovely camera.<br>

Pete</p>

[nicholas_fiduccia1]

<p>Hi Jennifer, Pentax makes good equipment of very good value. For people that like primes, Pentax offers a pretty complete line-up that is really hard to beat. I am a landscape photographer that needs the weather-sealing Pentax offers as well as their large range of available lenses.<br>

If you want us to help you on your upgrade, please tell us what kind of pictures you shoot or possibly want to shoot in the future. Most photographers today do not necessarily need to buy an DSLR. This wasn't always the case just a few years ago when one of the only ways to get better image quality was buying a DSLR to gain access to a large sensor. Today, even the small sensor on the mirrorless Olympus EM5 can give the APS-C sensors a run for their money. It is compact, weather-sealed, has amazing IBIS, and has a pretty good lineup of lenses in its system.<br>

For those who shoot fast action sports or wildlife pictures, a DSLR is of great value with the ability to do tracking once the target has been acquired. Nikon and Canon cameras are especially good at providing instruments that appeal to this type of photographer.<br>

The DSLR technology is mature, there are a lot of choices available and Pentax is one of the players that puts out great value. For example, the K30 would be a great upgrade path for you should you decide to stay with Pentax. No other camera manufacture will be able to put out a comparable camera at the same price point. Check out the Canon T4i vs the Pentax K30 and you will see what I mean. Both these cameras are priced identically.<br>

However, the new mirrorless cameras today have the ability to take incredible photos and they are far less bulky than their DSLR counterparts. You should consider them as well.<br>

By the way, do not follow the crowd as usually they do not buy what they truly need, but get what some biased salesperson tells them they need. Do your own homework and you will be a better informed consumer.</p>

[lauren_macintosh]

<p>and Pentax is the only company still allowing you use your older lens, that in its self is a major cravat :</p>

[personalphotos]

<p>Lauren, That's not actually true. Older Nikon lenses can be used on current Nikon bodies and if they are AI-s versions*, they work on Nikon DSLR's much better than older lenses do on Pentax because an AI-s lens which could be 30+ years old, will communicate with the body much better giving perfectly accurate exposure readings. You just need to focus the lens and shoot without guessing the exposure like a legacy lens on Pentax which doesn't tell the camera what the exposure is correctly.</p>

<p>In fact Pentax crippled the communication between older lenses and newer bodies. So yes you can use a Takumar or some old screw mount lens but exposures are either done with a hand held meter or the shooter guessing what's needed to get the shot.</p>

<p>This has been a long standing Pentax myth that only a legacy lens will "work" on an their modern DSLR. Nikon does, has just as many, if not more, old product available and it works much better on a modern Nikon DSLR than does on a Pentax DSLR.</p>

<p>* Even older lenses can be converted to AI-s by someone who knows how (a fairly simile process) and once done, the lens tells the camera what aperture is set and thus in any programmed mode, what ISO and shutter speed is needed to get correct exposure. As long as the lens will fit an "F-mount", then you can use it.</p>

[stemked]

There have been a couple of reasons for me. Moving from screw (42mm) to k mount was seamless and, with the

exception of the 'crippled k' mount Pentax has been faithful to K mount. As a nature photographer who takes a lot of

gear into the field, weight is an issue. With the exception of the PZ series (and to a lesser extent the K10/20) the bodies

have generally been small. Continuing with that theme lacking the built in moters and is in the lenses makes the lenses

lighter giving me more options. Yes, flying bird photos are thin in my portfolio for that reason, but I'm generally on the

hike to enjoy nature and bring along high quality glass to catch what I can. Even my 'new 600m f5.6 A is a relatively

light lens and easy to hike with in an appropriate pack.

I use a fair amount of Nikon bodies at work and used to use Olympus film bodies as well. All great cameras. The Nikon

bodies we used took a lot of explaining to students, the Pentax were pretty intuitive. I suppose I am, in many ways, a lot

less sophisticated than a lot of our Pentax users here, but I love simplicity when I do my photography. A depth of field

preview, Apertature priority and manual modes, occasionally a way to compinsate for exposure, mirror lock up, and

remote release are all I ever really need in a camera.

On a side note, I am not into show-boating, but I tell you almost Every time I bring out the 600 I get a crowd, nobody is

used to a lens that big that doesn't have Nikon or Canon on it.

[lauren_macintosh]

<p>Peter Zack: Lauren, That's not actually true. Older Nikon lenses can be used on current Nikon bodies and if they are AI-s versions*, But with Pentax it does not matter which of their older lens,you wish to use except the screw on ones there you need an adapter , and yes a lot of those lens on as new Pentax camera will only be manual mode but not all of them, and who had the shake mode on the cameras and dust control on the camera and weather sealing on the camera and on a dslr type camera<br>

:) :)<br>

just my two coppers</p>

[personalphotos]

<p>Dust control: Pentax, Nikon and several others.<br>

<br /> Weather sealed, Pentax Nikon and several others. Although this is body only and does not apply to older lenses from any brand because those lenses were never weather sealed to begin with.<br>

<br /> Shake reduction (in body): Pentax and Sony. Although here I would suggest SR, VR, or whatever isn't really an issue on lenses below 50mm unless you have shaky hands or poor technique. You don't really need it as much as you do with longer lenses.</p>

<p>Again Pentax isn't the only company that allows legacy glass to be used on a modern DSLR. Sony as well will use A mount Konica Minolta glass on their bodies. Yes Pentax can take anything you want to screw on, that's true and offers a broader assortment of legacy glass that can be used but to state that <em>"Pentax is the only company still allowing you use your older lens"</em> is incorrect.</p>

[andrewg_ny]

<p>Put another way -- you can use M42 just about as well on a Canon as on a Pentax, and Pentax-K or Pentax-M will similarly only require a simple adapter. And Pentax's level of support is unimpressive; they dropped the physical linkage to the aperture ring so stop-down metering is required, and that metering is disappointingly inaccurate. There are flash limitations with adapted lenses as well.</p>

<p>I'm inclined to agree with some of the other posters here -- unless your specific planned kit for another brand offers advantages important to you -- for many it's a grass-is-always-greener scenario.</p>

<p>As for flashes, there are several less-known brands now offering new P-TTL flashes at relatively low prices -- this wasn't the case a few years ago.</p>

[michael_kuhne]

<p>Your K200D is a very nice camera. I have the K-5 but still retain the K200D as a backup camera and take it instead when it provides all I will need for what I'll be doing. It can produce very good image quality, whether shooting jpegs or RAW images. Really good photos for general use. I prefer keeping the sharpness set on "Fine" most f the time. It remains the least expensive camera offering weather sealing of any brand, and is rated very highly for its build quality. It offers user control of the degree of noise control at higher ISO settings, and dynamic range control as well. All these attributes taken together are unheard of in its price category.</p>

<p>I am wondering specifically what types of lenses you are interested in acquiring and for what uses? There may be more options available than you realiize, in both prime and zoom lenses. The extremely finely made and fine performing Pentax Limited lenses are legendary in their uniqueness. They are virtually unrivalled in being of such compactness for such high quality in workmanship and optics. Great for a high-quality compact camera body, which your K200D is. </p>

<p>Likewise, in what way do you feel you are outgrowing your K200D? Going to a more upscale camera body will get you more features including some video capability, higher ISO capability for lower light situations, and more efficient control of photographic operation. You'd have, for instance, separate thumb and finger aperture and shutter control dials, instead of using the same dial for aperture while holding down the exposure comp button. This is not a huge deal with the K200D, which has a vey good control layout for this purpose. Yet there are other related advantages, such as the unique Pentax Hyper System being available in Program mode, not just in Manual mode as on your K200D. This system is the fastest, most efficient, and most convenient operational system in existance. I'd be happy to explain it to you if you do not yet have a grasp of it. </p>

<p>The K-5 does not offer specific "scene" type convenience exposure modes on its mode dial such as is found on your K200D, although there are a few automatic situational Program modes available in menues. This is due to the K-5 being a more professional style body in its build and design, where the expectation is the photographer will have the knowledge to make any needed exposure adjustments when dealing with such "scenes". It also features more operational on-body controls for instant access instead of having to go into menues. Image quality from the K-5 is excellent. Now is bargain time for the K-5, as the left over stock is being sold out for this discontinued model in anticipation of a forthcoming replacement.</p>

<p>The new K-30 uses the same sensor as the K-5 in the first Pentax amateur-oriented body offering weather sealing since the K200D, which is extremely rare. It has no top LCD panel, to shrink its size still more. All info must be viewed on the camera's backside. It has a two dial control system, and more on-body controls than the K200D, but not as many as the K-5. </p>

<p>As to a budget flash unit- I recommend you consider the Pentax AF 280 T which does not offer P-TTL as required by your K200D or more recent models, but can be set for "AUTO" flash operation instead of TTL. This means the flash unit's built-in meter will regulate flash exposure automatically instead of the camera's flash meter. It works fine, although you'll not have flash output exposure compensation adjustment. This flash model is pretty common on the used market and inexpensive, as well as having both swivel and tilt for good bounce flash capability.<br>

</p>

<p> <br>

</p>

[MattB.Net]

<p>I like Pentax for the older lens compatibility (I had some older film lenses I wanted to continue using when I got a dSLR), the small form factor, handling, value, and weather sealing/durability.<br>

I do a variety of shooting from portraits to macro to action sports to landscapes. I like them all. My Pentax bodies (K-x & K-5 currently) can handle all of these scenarios relatively well while not really specializing in a particular one (like me). <br>

SR in the body makes sense to me so I only have to buy it once per body instead of once per lens. It also allows for using SR with legacy lenses which neither Nikon or Canon can do. <br>

I have a Sigmal P-TTL flash, a dg-530 Super which seems nice enough for my needs and was very inexpensive when the newer 610 was released ($160 at Amazon). But even new at retail prices these are a lot less than the Pentax branded ones and have a good feature set. The downside is the user interface isn't that great but with a little practice I'm good at getting the results I want. Whatever flash you get I recommend getting TTL and FP (or HSS - different names for the same thing). I have found both of those features indispensable. I also have an older Pentax AF-200 flash that I use off camera with inexpensive triggers for some applications. Those go for about $10 on eBay these days. </p>

[jenniferfraser]

<p>WOW!<br>

<br />First of all, thank you ALL so much for all your detailed and amazing knowledge. I really felt that I learned a lot from all of you and I appreciate your advice so much.<br>

<br />Second of all, I really loved seeing the price comparisons that Peter Z. and David did - that really makes things so clear. <br />I remember when I originally bought my camera the salesguy was saying that Pentax was much more affordable, but since I haven't really looked into price comparisons I wasn't sure. I can never really know what lens is similar to the Pentax in order to be sure that I am comparing apples to apples....<br>

David, you made a comment about 'rendering an image' - I wasn't sure what that meant....can you explain that please?<br>

Nicholas, many of the pros that you mention of the Pentax are the reasons why I went with the Pentax in the first place. I travel and live abroad - so I am often in dusty, deserty places - so I wanted a camera that could hold up to the weather elements (I live in Jerusalem at the moment, but have been in the Middle East for 6 years...) and so also I was attracted to my 18-250mm lens because it's really compact and I guess it's also light compared to others (based on what you mentioned) - although it does feel heavy to me! <br>

You asked me what kind of photography I love, as this would help with advising me on what to buy.....As I travel a lot I take a lot of pictures of landscapes and touristy places.....but my main love is shooting people, especially children. I hope to take things up a notch and would love to take photos of kids and families as a part time job. I'm not good enough yet, but I am working on it! So I think I'd like some prime lenses to help me with this goal......<br>

I was looking at two lenses, but I could really use everyone's advice. I was looking at the Pentax SMC 35mm F2.4 AL Lens and the Pentax SMC 50mm f1.4 FA Lens. But to be honest - I'm not sure whether I should start off with a 35mm, 50mm or 80mm lens. Advice?<br>

Also, I was given a flash recently by my husband (who didn't realize all the differences....etc. etc.) He bought me a Sigma EF610 dg st - I wish it was manual. I'm just learning and playing around with it at the moment - but I do feel limited already as I'm only able to control the flash through changing the aperture or physically moving the flash....I wish I had manual options. I'm not sure if I should get another flash or just stick with what I've got - as I'm not sure just how much I will use it, to be honest. <br>

Michael, you asked me why I was thinking of upgrading - and this is a really good question. I love my camera and feel that I should be buying other items like lens at the moment......but the reason I mentioned it was that I knew one day (down the line) I'd probably want something new.....and if that day did come, I just wanted to be sure that all the equipment I bought was compatible. It was so great to hear your thoughts and to know that you think the K200D is a good camera and from your description I don't think I need to upgrade at the moment....I did, however, notice that a friend of mine was able to take much better photos indoors with her Canon (I think it is an <strong> EOS 5D Mark II</strong>) - but perhaps it is just a better camera? Or that it does better in low light situations.....anyway, I found that I couldn't get good photos indoors and I hated the 'flash' look - so this is why I wanted a better flash (hence the gift from my husband). Oh, and yes, could you please explain the 'Pentax Hyper System'? Thanks!<br>

I really loved your responses and all your help - thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!<br>

J</p>

 

[andrewg_ny]

<p>There's also a new DA 50/1.8 to consider.</p>

<p>A 35mm lens is wide enough that you can use it as general-purpose walkaround lens -- similar in field of view to the classic 50mm lens when using 35mm film; for many film SLR users, it was the only lens they ever owned.</p>

<p>A 50mm lens (when used on a smaller digital sensor such as the APS-C size on Pentax DSLRs) has a narrower field of view, more like a short telephoto lens. The chief reason for the popularity of these lenses has got to be the relatively low price for very fast lenses, allowing a lot of control over depth-of-field. These are reasonably popular as portrait lenses, though are a bit shorter than most people would pick for a dedicated portrait lens, which would be more in the 55-90mm range on your camera.</p>

<p>So -- if you're looking for something general-purpose, light weight, and faster, I'd say go for the DA35/2.4 (or seek out a FA35/2, but these will probably cost a bit more). If you want to try a 50 for small investment, I'd say look for a Pentax-A 50/1.7. For under $50 it will work great on your camera (autoexposure compatibility, body can control aperture) except that you'll need to focus manually and enter the focal length manually for SR shake reduction. The f/2 variant is even cheaper. Pentax-M are common and even cheaper but are less convenient to use on digital bodies.</p>

[andrewg_ny]

<p>Hyper System:</p>

<p>HyperProgram: On bodies that offer it (generally there's a green button') when you're in 'P' mode you can easily shift the program with the e-dial one direction or the other, maintaining the same amount of exposure; camera applies offsetting changes to aperture and shutter speed. Pressing the green button returns you to the default program line. For a two-dial body (PZ-1, *ist D, K10D, K20D, K-7, K-5, K30, 645D, etc.) depending which dial you move, the camera is effectively switched to Av or Tv mode until the green button is used to reset.</p>

<p>HyperManual: I think most Pentax digital bodies have offered this when in mode 'M', via either the green button or AE-L button; pressing the button automatically sets exposure (centering the meter) as if you were using an autoexposure mode. There is a custom setting as to whether camera will set both shutter and aperture, adjust shutter only, or adjust aperture only.</p>

<p>As far as I know this 'green-button-to-reset' is fairly unique to Pentax which is kind of surprising since it's a pretty sensible system in my opinion. Other companies have shiftable program mode, but the button makes both HyperProgram and HyperManual work pretty well.</p>

<p>The green button often resets other things as well, such as zeroing exposure compensation or enabling auto ISO.</p>

[personalphotos]

<p>To try and address a couple points, "rendering" is just a term to describe how a camera and lens combination creates the "look" of an image. For example, a Pentax camera might be considered to render richer colours than say a Canon. On the other hand canon pro level cameras are considered to render skin tones better than any other brand (closer to reality). A camera could render a good quality image or a poor quality image. Just depends on the quality and design as well as the lens used.<br>

The canon 5DMkII is very different class of camera from yours and about 5-7x the cost. It's using a larger sensor and was designed with the wedding photographer in mind to be good at shooting in low light receptions and churches. It's main flaw is a poor auto focus system that has been a long standing complaint of Canon owners.<br>

The flash you got (Sigma 610 DG St) does have a manual mode although not a well implemented one. It's manual at full power or at 1/16th power. So you can use it with both the camera and flash in "M" mode but it has adjust ability limits as most flashes with a manual setting will have 5,6 or 7 power output settings instead of only 2. This can be compensated though through the camera to some degree by controlling your aperture on the lens to vary the incoming light. </p>

<p>Andrew answered the Hyper program mode and it's a unique and excellent feature of Pentax DSLR's. <br>

As for lenses, this will depend on how close you get to the subject and how comfortable you are doing that. Some people prefer to shoot from a distance and be more hidden. For that, a 70-200mm, 200mm or 300mm is the weapon of choice. A good start would be the DA55-300mm. A very nice lens for the money and not too heavy. </p>

<p>If you like to get closer, then the FA50mm f1.4 would be the lens I'd get. It's small, fast and light. On that camera, it would be very small. Smaller yet would be the DA7omm or the DA40mm. Both fast and tiny lenses. I'll disagree with Andrew on one point. Older glass is fun and does work reasonably well but I'd want auto focus for what you are shooting. Second, you need at least an "A" series lens (no M series or screw mounts) to use the flash in any auto mode. The flash needs to know what lens is on the body and those 2 will not provide that information. </p>

<p> </p>

[personalphotos]

<p>Opps, I should proof read stuff. I meant to say that the Canon 5DMKII is about 3x the price difference. Not 5 to 7 times (I was thinking of the new MKIII that is almost $3500.00 now where the MKII was $2500 and now around $2100)</p>

[andrewg_ny]

<p>To clarify a bit -- I agree with Peter that you're probably better off with an autofocus lens and think the DA35/2.4 (or DA50/1.8 or FA50/1.4) would be a fine choice. I only mentioned the Pentax-A solution if you wanted to try out a fast 50 for <em>really</em> cheap. The other DA primes are great too, I'm really only answering to the 35 vs. 50 with a relatively budget-friendly leaning.</p>

<p>I don't think anyone can really answer the focal length question but you -- try setting your zoom to the various lengths and see what you gravitate towards. And look at your existing photo library in software that can sort based on the focal length in the EXIF embedded in each image. You'll see just how often you use various lengths, and see which lengths generated the images you like best.</p>

[stemked]

<p>Figuring out what focal lengths is tricky, but a general rule if you want to do landscapes or interiors with a digital body typically the minimum width you want is in the 18-20mm range (you can go wider, but it gets more expensive). If you want to do street photography think speed, f2.8 or faster. Macro of course is macro, if you are into flowers (or small critters) its hard to beat, otherwise macro lenses tend to be heavier and can be more expensive. Finally telephoto lenses over 200mm are usually more useful for the nature photographer than others. These aren't hard and fast rules (I've shot landscapes with a 500mm lens). What I would suggest is a simple zoom in the 18-55mm range and see what you seem to need, if you are always cranked down at 18mm wanting wider then that is the way to go, if you are on the other end then a telephoto, etc. The fallacy of many starters is that they seem to want advice without knowing what they want. Buy cheap up front and then specialize would be my best suggestion.</p>

[jenniferfraser]

<p> Hey all,<br>

<br />I really love the suggestion to look through my photos to see what kind of photos I tend to take. This is a great idea. I will do that this weekend.....<br>

In the meantime, I've been doing searches for reviews for a few lenses.....I saw these two on ebay used and I'm wondering two things....have you bought lenses online with good success (the seller has 100% feedback). Also, what are your thoughts on these two lenses used....<br>

SMC P FA 50mm f1.4 or SMC 35mm f2.4<br>

Vs. this one new? I read good reviews on it and it seems really reasonably priced. </p>

<h1 ><strong><strong>SMC Pentax-DA 35mm F2.4 AL</strong></strong></h1>

<p> I am still not sure that I understand the difference between DA an FA.....<br>

Thank you!<br />J</p>

[david_john_appleton]

<p>Hi Jennifer <br>

Let me fist say it the photographer that takes good images not the camera, Nikon, canon pentax ,sony makes no difference <br>

2 reasons to jump ship <br>

1 you need to go pro<br>

2 you need to upgrade to full frame (FF)<br>

If the above dont apply then stick with Pentax<br>

BUT I will say that the notion that pentax lenses are cheaper than Canan are totally incorrect<br>

Take the pentax 50-135 f2.8 mentioned above ..this is a re-badged tokina <br>

namly the Tokina AF 50-135mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro DX which to buy in Canon mount in the UK is 30% cheaper than the pentax clone <br>

I dont think it you can have it in pentax K like many 3ed party lens.<br>

first mark to canon </p>

<p><a name="btAsinTitle"></a>Then consider a mid range zoom. The Pentax would be the 16-50mm f2.8 cheapest in UK is £634 But I have a Canon so I can get the optically much better (take deep breath now) Tamron SP AF17-50mm F/2.8 XR VC Di II LD Aspherical (IF) (Canon mount) for £365<br>

That mark number 2 to Canon</p>

<p><a name="product-name"></a><a name="btAsinTitle1"></a> Now I like my 50mm f1.4 usm at £283 the nearest pentax to it optically is the 55mm f1.4 £626 ..the Pentax SMC P FA Lens - 50 mm - F/1.4 is a match for the canon build wise and price but not optically in fact the Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 II is as good or better than the 50mm at only £79 if you dont mind having a lens with a plastic mount <br>

other canon lenses that are optically very very good and don't brake the bank are the canon 85mmf 1.8 usm £275 and the 100 f2 usm £320</p>

<p>Their are so many lens options for canon from canon sigma tokina tamron etc old and new what ever you have for pentax I bet I can find a match optically and price wise most of the time …</p>

<p>Now if you did wont to jump ship and wonted best IQ I will recommend a Canon full frame 5D classic... yes it old not got many bells and whistles on it <br>

but the cropped body with better IQ has not been made yet ...well canon has not made one as-yet and they can be had from £500+<br>

Now I am not putting pentax down in fact Id have a K5 over a canon 60D now its gone plastic </p>

<p>Dave </p>

<p> </p>

<h1 ><br /><br /></h1>

 

[andrewg_ny]

<p>There's only one 35/2.4, it's the DA -- whether it's new or used.</p>

<p>FA - older generation, designed for AF film SLRs<br>

DA - more recent, designed for APS-C digital SLRs</p>

 

<ul>

<li>Most FA lenses (excluding FA-J) still include the aperture ring that most Pentax film SLRs require for manual/Av modes. This is of no particular use to you when using on a Pentax digital SLR</li>

<li>Being newer and designed for digital DA lenses will sometimes not offer full coverage for "full frame" 35mm film, so if Pentax was to release a larger-sensored digital body these might not work well (it's rather unlikely Pentax will do this, and even if they do, it may cost more than most of us are willing to spend)</li>

<li>DA often smaller & lighter for a given focal length range/speed</li>

<li>Some DA have updated coatings including 'SP' (super-protect) which is intended to help keep front element cleaner</li>

<li>Many DA lenses offer quick-shift full-time manual focus override, while FA (and a few low-cost DA unfortunately including DA35/2.4 and DA50/1.8, plus DA-L lenses) require that you switch camera body to MF to focus manually</li>

<li>DA use the latest optical formulas and designs that might work better on digital. Many older lenses continue to work well on digital but digital sensors have some characteristics a little different than film -- they're more sensitive to the angle light hits the sensor (more perpendicular means less vignetting/falloff), and some designs might have been improved to handle the increased reflectivity of a digital sensor.</li>

<li>Since DA were designed for the smaller digital sensor the focal lengths tend to be 'useful' for digital. For digital, you start thinking of focal lengths <= 24mm or so 'wide angle'. The only FA lenses wider than 24mm were the FA 20-35/4 and FA 20/2.8. But there are numerous wide choices in DA: 10-17 fisheye, 12-24/4, 14/2.8, 15/4, 21/3.2, plus standard zooms 16-45/4, 16-50/2.8, 17-70/4, 18-55, 18-135, etc.) -- all designed with the APS-C digital sensor-using photographer in mind. </li>

</ul>

 

[jenniferfraser]

<p>Oops - I posted twice....sorry.</p>

<p>Just ignore this....<br>

J</p>