Orca 110 and Pentax Auto 110

[lobalobo]

<p>Lomography just started producing 110 film cartridges, which it calls Orca. The film is 100 ASA B&W. This intrigued me so I bought on eBay a Pentax Auto 110 and three lenses. My question is about how the camera (which offers no manual adjustments) will set ASA. I found this on a miniature-camera site:</p>

<p>"Accurate ASA Film settings are a bit of a problem with Pentax 110's (and many other 110's). Both the Auto 110 and the Super had the necessary activating pin to be set for either ASA 80 film or ASA 400. The problem is that today, the only emulsions still available are colour negative 200 and 400, and most film cartridges seem to be indexed for the lower speed film. If you are shooting with 400 film and the camera thinks its 80, you get an automatic 2 1/3 stop overexposure on a very small negative."</p>

<p>Well for the Orca film, the lower ASA setting is what is needed (80 is close enough to 100 and if I ever find a developing reel that will take 110 film I can adjust negative density with developing time). I wonder, though, whether the Orca cartridge will in fact trigger the camera's lower ASA setting. Anyone know? Here's hoping.</p>

[john_robison3]

<p>The only image of the Orca cartridge I can find looks like there is no notch cut out of the supply side. This would then push in the pin on cameras with adjustable ISO speeds. The thing is, I can't remember for sure if the slower speed is pin in or pin out but I think it is with the pin pushed in.</p>

[lobalobo]

<p>Thanks, John. The quote from my original post suggests that pin pushed in is indeed the lower ASA setting--there is a suggestion to file down the cartridge to prevent pin-in with higher speed film. This is what I need, so I hope you are right (and I hope Adox makes cartridges with pin-in for its 100 ASA film whenever it comes out). </p>

[joshroot]

<p>Is there anywhere left that actually develops 110 film? Or are we at a strictly "do it yourself" point for that format?</p>

[joshroot]

<p>Answering my own question, it looks like Dwaynes still does.</p>

<p>http://www.dwaynesphoto.com/newsite2006/color-neg-processprint.html</p>

[tom_cheshire]

<p>Process 110 at Yorks. <a href="http://www.yorkphoto.com/york/welcome">http://www.yorkphoto.com/york/welcome</a></p>

[john_robison3]

<p>Forgot to add. If you want to develop your own 16mm film then B&H sells the Yankee Clipper II tank with adjustable plastic reel for 16mm to 120 size film. The price is 16.95 with free shipping. It is an order only item and they take 7~14 days to order and ship item. I bought this tank and reel about 10 years ago and although it is cheap construction it worked OK. It cannot be inverted so you agitate with an included thermometer that rotates the reel. Mine got lost in a house move and I finally located a old Yankee tank on E-bay. It was built a lot better and came with 2 reels.</p>

[john_robison3]

<p>One more thing. If this is regular B&W film I doubt York or Dwayne's is set up to D&P for the prices they show. Those prices are for C-41 process.</p>

[tom_harvey3]

<p>I'm reasonably sure that the slower speed films were notchless, so pin pushed in as it was for size 126 Kodapak. As size 126 was making its exit and size 110 was making its entry, it was easier to remember on standard that could be identified with either line of products.</p>

[Lou_Meluso]

<p>Note: Dwayne's does not scan images to CD, just process and prints. It looks like York can do scans. This is a biggie because scanning that small is a pain.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Back in the day, I developed 110 in the Yankee tank or an equivalent tank. It will work just fine. You can print 110 negs on any enlarger than can handle 35mm. They won't fill up the negative carrier but you just crank the head far enough up the column until the image fills whatever size paper you have on the easel. Can't speak to Dwayne's or York, but it's easier and cheaper to get good B&W developing and printing doing it yourself than to send it out. Keep in mind that these are horrendously tiny negatives. They are more about novelty and fun than picture quality.</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>the FR Special tank had an optional 16mm reel.<br>

these tanks were very popular but you may have to hunt to find the alternate rel<br>

Basically the removable disks for 16mm had shorter center hubs.</p>

 

[lobalobo]

<p>Thanks to all, and sorry for the delay (while I was out of town). As for who processes 110 film anymore, the answer is the Lomography does, at least the new film that it also sells; it will provide negative, prints, and scans for $18, or negatives alone for much less (though I don't recall how much less). I plan to scan myself, so all I need is the negatives. Sadly, though, as for my original post, I've now received opposing answers: pin in means high ASA; and pin in means low ASA. Hope that whatever the right answer is, the Orca cartridge has the right configuration, but I'm no closer to knowing. Thanks for trying, though.</p>

[adam_jacobs2]

<p>I just finished developing my first roll of orca 110 in XTOL. I exposed it in a Pentax auto 110. Exposure appears to be spot on in the negatives (not 2 stops underexposed). This agrees with my original assessment that the tab seemed to be in the right place on the cartridge to signify a "slow" film. For the Pentax 110, "Slow" means ISO 80. I have to say, I am very excited and impressed with this film! I've been hoping for a B/W 110 emulsion since the first day I picked up a Pentax 110 and now it has finally arrived! The no backing paper issue didn't seem to cause me any problems, although full disclosure: I removed the cartridge from the camera inside a changing bag (and straight into the daylight developing tank). My guess is that the backing paper helps to make the exposed cartridge light tight (like the backing paper on 120). I didn't see any evidence of light leaks on the last 4 frames. Everything looks good with this film, no strange issues at all. I bought the "Yankee Clipper II" from adorama, since it is the only tank that I could find that would do 110 film. This tank _sucks_. However, it works and is good enough to do the odd bit of 110 film developing. I wouldn't want it for my primary developing tank though. Anyways, just wanted to chime in that the workflow is good and the film is great.</p>