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Speedlite and Association


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<p>Hello everyone,<br>

1- I'm looking for information about Speedlite. I own a Rebel XS and I'm currently studying photography online. I'm at the "Lights" module and they mention softboxes as a method of lighting a subject. I know I need a flash other than the built-in one but I don't want to spend 400-500$ for one. I'm considering shopping on Keh and I'm looking for maybe an alternative. Aka a different brand than Canon that won't be as expensive as the original but will still fit on my Rebel XS. <br />I want a flash with a head I can rotate to make the light bounce on walls and ceiling and of course something I can use in a softbox. <br>

<br />2- Studying to become a photographer and make it a living once I'm done learning and practicing, I started looking at photographer association. Things like PPA. Do you advice them? Pros and cons of using them?</p>

<p>3- Is getting the CPP necessary? </p>

<p>Thank you for your answers.<br /><br />As always I'm thankful for this amazing community. </p>

 

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<p>Thank you for the link. I started reading it and will finish later. Definitively something worth bookmarking. <br>

<br />I have another question about the speedlite. I looked at a few unboxing videos, and while I don't have the flash in my hand yet: What option would I select to keep the flash on at all times in order to use it in a softbox? </p>

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<blockquote>

<p>I have another question about the speedlite. I looked at a few unboxing videos, and while I don't have the flash in my hand yet: What option would I select to keep the flash on at all times in order to use it in a softbox?</p>

 

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<p>That will ultimately depend on the flash head you settle on. For Canon, there is a custom function that prevents the power time-out so the flash remains on indefinitely when the power switch is in the ON position. Just be prepared with a big box of AA batteries... I forget to turn my flash off quite frequently.</p>

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<p>And if I want to use a light that will stay on all the time in a softbox, that isn't a speedlte. What should I buy?<br>

I'm still learning but I want to go and buy a softbox today with a stand and the light I need into it to practice and work on my portfolio. </p>

<p>Thank you again for your help. </p>

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<p>I think a light that is always on is referred to as a "studio light". The folks in the lighting forum would know. Very different animal. However, you mentioned a softbox as the application. There is not reason you can not use a speed light with a softbox. You just won't see the result until after the shot, rather than before.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I'm sorry, I didn't understand what you meant by "on at all times". There are two types of lighting, strobes and hot lights. Most studio strobes incorporate a halogen "modeling" light that casts a small amount of light on the scene so that both the photographer and model can see their way around the studio without tripping on cables or tripods but not enough to affect the exposure or influence the color balance of your image. Each light type has it's advantages and disadvantages but most will agree that, under most circumstances, the best lighting for photography is a strobe or several strobes. They produce a more consistent and repeatable light regardless of output power and they don't turn your studio into an oven.</p>
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<p>Reason I asked is: I'm currently studying lights. I saw that some people used softboxes but the light they use stays on while they shoot. That's what I'm looking for. Something that will allow me to take my time, analyze the scene and make my decision since I'm not good with everything there is to know yet. <br>

<br />I'm also looking at how to make high key images, and for that I need lights, but don't know what type. Hence I asked.</p>

 

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<p>Most monolights have modeling lights that <em>might</em> allow you to see your lighting pattern prior to taking the shot. I say might because many inexpensive monolights have 100 or 150-watt modeling lights which, when behind a softbox, don't do much to "illuminate" your lighting pattern. Before spending <em>any</em> money, I would read through the Strobist website linked above and I would pick up and read the book, "Light: the Science and Magic". After, and only after, you have read all that should you consider spending your hard earned money. $500 is an awfully limited lighting budget and you want to get the most for your money. The only way that is possible is to have a better understanding of what you need. If you start buying gear based on what we say, you will be throwing good money after bad chasing different lights/looks/dreams.</p>
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<p>1) As you will discover in reading the excellent <a href="http://www.strobist.com">www.strobist.com</a> web site, once you put a flash into a softbox or umbrella you generaly end up setting it on manual rather than using the fancy features that $500 flashes offer. This means any $100 flash or even older used flash will do provided it has enough power. The classic no-frills flash is the Vivitar 285HV, still available new for about $90. Some people say the current production isn't as good as the older ones. Strobist has some other brands that are recommended. Basic flashes don't have any auto-off feature. You turn them on and they stay on until you turn them off. 2) I was a member of the my state chapter of PPA for two or three years. There were some useful seminars and speakers and I met lots of interesting people. But it's really a group for working pros in the wedding/portrait market and I personally think it's premature to join until you already have a basic working knowledge of photography and are starting to work professionally. Members can be friendly, but it's the place to talk about marketing to brides and drawing in portrait work or to learn some advanced techniques, not to ask what kind of flash goes in a softbox. 3) To me, CPP is meaningless. The learning that goes behind it it valid, but the letters after your name mean nothing to clients any more than obscure abbrevations from other professional organizations. M.D. or PhD or CPA mean something to the average person, but CPP might as well be DGP (damned good photographer).</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>To me, CPP is meaningless. The learning that goes behind it [is] valid</p>

 

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<p>Isn't that an oxymoron? I might agree that the letters don't mean anything to most clients, but they mean something to me or whoever earned them. It's a trophy at the end of a race.</p>

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  • 3 weeks later...

<p>You might look at taking the professional photography course at NYIP. I feel the CPP is a valid education you can use to better your professional career as long as you include it in your pitch and define it for people that don't know what the CPP is. I don't have a CPP and maybe someday I'll study for it and get one. You don't need a CPP to be a professional photographer. You might think about taking business courses or getting a degree in business and sales.<br /><br /> I did the professional photography course at NYIP and took that learned knowledge to work on my own professional photography over the years. I'm not a full time professional photographer I have another career in computer technology but I do take some very interesting photographs and I am working a HDR collection this year. I am also working on a 2012 photography book of my 2012 HDR collection. Thumbs up on Strobist I would also pick up a copy of Professional Photographer magazine and read that too.</p>

<p>By the way you can also make a soft box out a cardboard box with aluminum foil and wax paper over the front of the box. Some of the things you use in photography is about building things for less and customizing them to your specific needs. I have made several things such as PVC light stands using LED lighting technology, build my own studio setups, and wax paper and simple umbrella can be a great studio lighting.</p>

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