What hotshoe flash are you using with your m4/3 body?

[mark_stephan2]

<p>Like all pop up flashes my new E-PL1 gives me redeye. I pulled my Nikon SB-30 out of my camera bag and set the camera and body to manual mode and they work well together. However, I'd like to get something ttl compatible and not risk using the Nikon on an Oly body. Which flash are you using? Are there any 3rd party choices to consider?</p>

[Greg M]

<p>All it takes is a trip to any online store that sells flash units and searching "compatible for Olympus" to see what's available..</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Compatible+With_Olympus&ci=643&N=4288586287+4294955930">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Compatible+With_Olympus&ci=643&N=4288586287+4294955930</a></p>

<p>While they will all do TTL with the Pens, none of the AF assist lights (except one....see below) work because they are all designed for the phase-detection AF system in the DSLR's.</p>

<p>Olympus just introduced the first micro-specific model with a built-in AF assist light that works with micro bodies, the FL600R. There does appear to be some limitations with older Pen models, including the E-PL1, but it does work in TTL mode when directly mounted, and the head can be tilted and rotated for use with bounce attachments.</p>

[bruce_rubenstein]

<p>The Metz 50 AF-1 is full compatible and has AF assist. The only thing it won't do is is work as a master to control another flash; only works as a slave.</p>

<p> </p>

[Greg M]

The Metz AF assist works with micro cameras? I'm doubtful. The Olympus FL50R and FL36R flash units have AF assist

lights too, but they only work with the DSLR's. I would imagine the Metz works exactly the same way on micro bodies.

[bruce_rubenstein]

<p>http://www.metz.de/en/flash-units/product-ranges/system-flash-units/mecablitz-50-af-1-digital/data-sheet/mecablitz-50-af-1-digital-olympus-panasonic-leica.html</p>

<p>Check under "Dedicated Flash Functions", that's what I did before making my post.</p>

[Greg M]

<p>That's no different than what you would read about Olympus' own FL50R and FL36R units...</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/527573-REG/Olympus_260116_FL_50R_TTL_Shoe_Mount.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/527573-REG/Olympus_260116_FL_50R_TTL_Shoe_Mount.html</a></p>

<p>...and the AF assist lights on those units do not work with micro bodies, either. Believe me, I have two of them, the original FL50 and the FL50R. The AF assist lights do not work, and this Metz unit will be no different. Those specs are only good for four-thirds Olympus and Panasonic DSLR's. The AF assist lights are designed to work with phase detection AF systems (DSLR's), not contrast detection. The TTL flash will work fine on Micro Four-Thirds bodies, the AF assist lights will not, at all.</p>

[meissner]

<p>I've read that some feel that the FL-600R's focus assist light works with the E-M5, but not the other bodies.</p>

<p>In terms of what I use on my E-P2, I use an Olympus FL-36. I own a Metz 48 (previous generation to the current Metz 50), and I tend to think that is too large for normal use on the E-P2, and instead I use it on my E-5.</p>

<p>I would say either the FL-600R or Cactus AF50 is about as large of a flash as I would want to put on the camera full time (they are about the size of the FL-36). Since you have an E-PL1, they will work with the remote TTL mode in the E-PL1 for off camera usage (only some Metz and Cactus flashes do the remote TTL mode). If you want to go smaller, your best choice is maybe the FL-300R.</p>

[GerrySiegel]

<p>Since you asked, right now I am using my old FL 20 flash on my GH2. I use it in auto mode (which actually works pretty well for me as to exposure, as good a TTL in fact). Flash is tiny and fits perfectly. size wise, saves the camera battery, rare red eye, and it shows flash icon in the finder. Of course I choose to set one of my C-1 custom modes on the GH2 to the flash settings that are needed for auto mode ( and one where I pick the ambient shutter speed too, so I can just click to that pre stored "setting." I can tailor it as I choose after a chimp... On an Olympus camera there should be<em> full</em> dedication according to the charts.<br /> Sure, I have altogether too many flash guns around, mainly Canon Speedlites.<br /> The petite FL 20 is discontinued but still available on line as some vendors have it. It is a nice pocketable size<br>

I am sure Michael's FL 36 is more versatile for bounce and fill, etc.<br>

Some old semi pro hand on PN warned me once very strongly off Metz product re company dealings, and I have never quite warmed up to this flash maker,except for one small unit I use as slave, well built though it is.<br>

It is hard to me to resist getting one from the company that made the camera in my mind if one is serious about mastering flash. No quarrels with the FL 50 for instance, though kind of big for a micro camera perhaps.<br>

Think also of a flash bracket and start fooling around with off camera flash. Balances better. </p>

[traveler_101]

<p>Mark, why not leave well enough alone? I am using an Olympus T-20 flash from the old OM system on my E-P1. No TTL of course but it lloks great on the camera and I like the performance. Besides it is low voltage and is safe to use with the camera. http://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/olympus_t20_flash.pdf</p>

[john_narsuitus]

<p><strong>I originally purchased my m4/3 bodies and fast prime lenses for available light shooting; therefore, I do not use flash too often.</strong><br>

<strong> </strong><br>

<strong>For years, I have avoided flash units designed to work on specific cameras. Instead, I prefer to use a flash unit that works equally well on all my cameras (medium format, 35mm SLR, 35mm compact, digital SLR, and digital compact).</strong><br>

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<strong>The discontinued Vivitar 283 has been the reliable, versatile, and economical hotshoe flash that I have used for decades. I rarely use it directly mounted in the hotshoe. I prefer to use a long sync cord so I have better control of the direction of the light. I also use a Wein HSHS Safe-Sync to protect my electronic cameras from excessive voltage.</strong><br>

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[meissner]

<p>When Vivitar sold its flash unit to its present owners (icorp?), the new owners came out a series of flashes, and reused the model number 283. The new 283 is camera specific, and comes in 4/3rds, Canon, Nikon, Sony, etc. versions. The older flash that John has is a completely different flash. Most of the old 283's also were digital camera killer's, sending some 600 volts through the hot-shoe. Like John uses, you want something like the Wein Safe-sync to sit between the flash and the hot-shoe.</p>

<p>I have talked to at least one person in these forums that burned out his micro 4/3rds hot-shoe because he put a high voltage flash on the camera once. Fortunately it did not seem to harm the rest of the camera.</p>

[wblynch]

<p>I also use the Olympus T-20 on my Panasonic G1. I get my best results with the camera in program mode.</p>