Can I use modern strobes with a fifty year old rollei?

[mheald]

<p>If i can, how?</p>

[michaelging]

<p>Yes, you just need to get a flash cord that matches the rollei nipple and put the camera to X sync. The nice thing is that its a between the lens shutter, so you can shoot up to 1/500 shutter speed. </p>

[dhbebb]

<p>Yes! If your strobe has a cable connection with a 3mm PC cable (patch cord or Prontor/Compur, depending on who you ask), you can connect this to your Rollei and take pictures using the X setting. You will need to set the flash to aperture priority mode and set the same aperture on the camera. If your flash has no cable connection, you will need a hot shoe to PC adapter, available on e-bay for around $15. Looks like this:<br>

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOT-SHOE-CABLE-FLASH-ADAPTER-/310398178861?pt=UK_Photography_VintagePhotography_VintagePhotoAccessories&hash=item48452c562d</p>

[mheald]

<p>thank you michael and david </p>

[joel_b.1]

<p>The challenging part is finding the right sync cord, Michael. Here's the response I got from the always-helpful Ferdi Stutterheim when I asked the same question:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00aH9z</p>

<p>I haven't gotten around to trying it yet, so I can't report success or failure . . . </p>

[dhbebb]

<p>A locking-type cable is nice to have, but a normal one can be used, too.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>For more general information on different kinds of flash sync see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_synchronization#M.2C_F.2C_FP.2C_X_and_HSS_sync .</p>

 

[mukul_dube]

<p>Until the mid 1970s I used a Rolleicord which had been bought new in 1952. It synchronised only with bulbs: it had no X sync.</p>

[eric friedemann]

Per one of the links, Paramount is a reputable vendor that makes high-quality, custom cords with hard-to-find tips:

 

 

 

http://www.paramountcords.com/

[harry_hollander]

<p>If you get a flash with a sensor, it could be a quite useful set-up. I've tested a potato flasher (Pentax AF400T) with the x-sync on an Automat, with tilt and swivel, awaiting the results for the flash should be intelligent enough to compensate and the nice thing is you can still vary the aperture.<br>

Btw my cable was part of the Pentax cable with a PC-ending. It worked.</p>

[mheald]

<p>so this<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/15709132-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="452" /><br>

plugged into<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/15709133-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="452" /><br>

wirelessly shooting this<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/15709134-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="452" /><br>

is my current plan, would this work</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>You could certainly use this lighting setup (probably best in conjunction with a white card as a fill) but of course your flash will not operate in automatic mode. The best thing would be to use a flash meter, or use a digital camera to check exposure. If there is no other possibility, set the flash to manual mode and calculate exposure by dividing the guide number (likely to be 30 to 40) by the distance from the flash to the umbrella and from there to the subject, giving around one stop increase to allow for the absorption of the umbrella. For example, if you are using ISO 100 film, the GN is 36, the total distance from flash to umbrella to subject is 2 meters, 36 divided by 2 is 18, call it f16, increase by one stop and shoot at f11. I naturally cannot guarantee that these numbers will apply but they won't be far wrong.</p>

[joel_b.1]

<p>Do you have a flash meter, Matthew? If not, I strongly suggest a Sekonic 308s. It's going to make life a lot easier.</p>

<p>What cable did you get to connect the camera and wireless transmitter? </p>

<p>I suggest you test this all out before you load the camera with film. The shutter should trigger the flash with or without film in the camera, of course, and it's a lot less expensive to experiment without film than with!</p>

<p>And you are going to have to experiment, because your flash switch is unmarked. Usually these switches are marked with an M (or lightbulb) or X (or lightning bolt). M/lightbulb is for flashbulbs. Because flashbulbs take a fraction of a second to warm up before firing, when the switch is in this position, the flashbulb is fired about 1/50 of a second before the shutter opens, so that by the time it does open, the flashbulb's light is where it should be, on the subject. X/lightning bolt is for electronic flashes, and when the switch is in this position, the flash is fired at the same moment that the shutter is opened. This is the setting you want for your setup.</p>

<p>Here's how you figure out where to put that lever: Hook everything up, open the back of your camera (no film in it), and keep your eye on the taking lens shutter. When you fire the shutter, you should be be able to see the light from the flash through the aperture. (This will work better if you use a large aperture.) If the flash fires but you don't see its light through the shutter opening, that means the camera triggered the flash before the shutter opened. If that happens, move that switch to the other position, and it should work on your next attempt.</p>

[mheald]

<p>Thanks guys I'm planning on getting 23-6C Rollei Lock to PC from that paramount place, oh and Joel it does have m and x marked it's on the side i meant to get that in the shot but i forgot. Thank you to everyone for the tips i'll look into that Sekonic.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<blockquote>

<p>"....but of course your flash will not operate in automatic mode."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>If the flash has an "AA" (Aperture Auto) mode and a swivel head it can be used automatically. You simply swivel the head around 180 degrees so that the auto sensor points at the subject while the flash head points into the umbrella. Set the aperture and ISO speed on the flashgun, and fire away! IME, AA flash mode works just as well as most TTL systems. I've used this with "old" Nikon SB-25 speedlights, Metz 45CL-1s etc., and it works a treat.</p>

<p>So yes Matthew, your proposed system will work perfectly.</p>

[lubos_soltes]

<p>@Rodeo Joe: This only works if your camera is about the same distance from the subject as the flash unit. The meter circuit is tied to the flash position, so you don't have much freedom in changing distance or angle of view in that case. A separate flash meter is the best option here.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

No, no, Lubos.<br>The flash can be at quite a different distance to the subject compared to the camera.<br>The flash's built-in meter must meter the scene, and determine whether the flash - from wherever it is - has put out enough light to illuminate the subject. The camera can then be miles away from, or close to the subject, or anywhere in between: the illumination, and thus the settings on the camera, will be the same.<br>So a flash unit with built-in metering circuit, set to Auto-mode will indeed do.