Studio Lighting

[studio460]

<p>Marc said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You do NOT have to use modifiers from the light maker's Brand choices . . .</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I'm not here to argue with you, Marc, I'm simply sharing some of the incompatibilities I've found--that appropriate adapter rings are only available for select brands. While Profoto, Elinchrom and Hensel may be more readily interchangeable, many others are not. If they are, it's still a mystery to me. Can you point me to the adapter ring which permits mounting Elinchrom modifiers to Dynalite or Speedotron heads? If it's something widely available, then call me stupid, but I couldn't figure it out. Even better, I wish I could find a method to adapt PCB/Balcar modifiers to my Dynalite or Speedotron Force 10. It's either not possible, or the adapter ring simply doesn't exist. Also, since various manufacturers have developed differing methods of mechanical attachment, often, a simple "adapter ring" wouldn't solve the problem.<br /> <br /> Of course Westcott modifiers fit almost anything, just as Chimera and Photoflex modifiers fit most brands--they're the ones making the adapter rings to fit <em>their</em> product onto other brands of strobes, since their primary product concept is to market generic modifiers to fit strobes of any brand.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You do NOT have to worry about incompatible radio systems to trigger different strobe heads.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Not sure what you mean by that. Different radio systems are incompatible with each other. Profoto Air won't trigger a Skyport receiver, nor, will either be triggered by a PocketWizard transceiver alone. PocketWizard only makes a handful of internal receiver modules for use with third-party strobes--it's good to know which ones before you buy. Also, only select models are able to use these modules. For example, I wouldn't go out any buy a ton of PocketWizards, if I knew I were buying all-Elinchrom, or all-Profoto strobes and planned to go with Skyport or Air triggers. But you have to know this going in.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Perhaps I needed to be more specific. What I meant to say, was that I can't find a way to mount Elinchrom Rotolux modifiers onto non-Elinchrom strobes. I also can't find a way to fit PCB foldable modifiers, and their PLM, to non-Buff strobes.</p>

[jason_williams14]

<p>Thank you all once more for the very useful information.<br>

@ Ralph The engineer in me really appreciates the way you approach this decision. Thanks for the good advice.<br>

@ Summer Thank you for the info. I do appreciate the advice and I do understand what you are getting at. To be clear, it's not that I'm stuck on brands, but more that I'm just trying to quantify the benefit derived from spending so much more for a system. I disagree slightly, I can do things with studio lighting that I can't do with my speedlites, (nor can anyone else at Strobist...) If that were not the case, I would not be here. :)<br>

I've tested out quite a bit of stuff, but there are a lot of things that you will not get to try or that will not occur to you in only a couple days of using someone's gear. That's another reason that I came here, to hear some opinions of people who have used some of the gear that I am interested in on several projects, in different locations, and under different circumstances.<br>

Brand and quality are just necessary decision points. I did the Canon vs. Nikon thing some time back and this is similar. I had to make some decisions about the what benefits I was getting from each dollar spent. Photography is such a tough business to make a buck in, even if someone is like me and only doing it as a second job, you still have to consider that ratio or you're putting yourself in a bad situation.<br>

I do see subtle differences in the lighting, now I just have to decide what the value of them are.<br>

Am I going to trade in my 5D Mark II for a new Mark III? Probably not. Maybe when the price comes down on them a bit, but even then it's doubtful.<br>

Did I sell my 70-200/2.8L and buy a 70-200/2.8L IS USM II? Yes I did. There was value in that for me.<br>

This is the same case.<br>

<strong>You all have made some really excellent points</strong> that are worth taking the time to study further. I actually believe this is a harder decision than the body or lenses.<br>

Here's the thing that I'm hung up on... Am I going to walk out onto the beach and see Brooklyn Decker getting shot for SI with PCB gear? No, not likely. There's a reason for that. Probably subtle ones, but reasons none the less. On the other hand, my name isn't Warwick Saint or Jarmo, I don't want to lose sight of that..... Could I shoot pics for a client with PCB gear? Absolutely. The photos posted here are good, competent work, there is no arguing that. PCB provides A LOT of quality for the money spent. As the "Extortors of Light" are fond of saying, you have to "See the light..." I've found that most people can't. Many of the people that pay me to photograph them would be just as happy with a photo taken with a $90 Flashpoint modifer as they would be with a $800 Elinchrom modifer.<br>

So why get the Elinchrom? To get higher paying gigs by providing slightly higher quality work? That's a possibility but far from a sure thing and nothing to really "hang my hat" on. Is it for me and my eye? Personal satisfaction? This is more likely.... The artist in me wants to create the absolute best work I can and I don't want equipment limitations. But where's the $$ in that? The cost difference between Profoto and PCB set-ups will buy me a couple more L lenses.... I work for a living and I'll drive a couple extra miles to save a nickel on gas. My reflector/scrim holders are modified county maint. signs for petes sake... lol. Another good point to not lose sight of.<br>

Decisions, decisions.... haha. :) The next time my girlfriend takes three hours to get ready to go out for dinner on a Friday night, I'm not going to say one single word.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>Correct Ralph, Profoto AIR will not trigger a Skyport receiver. It will trigger an AIR receiver that can be plugged into any mono-light or pack including those from Elinchrom. Same with almost any radio system available. This was in answer to the suggestion that one had to move to Pocket Wizards to do that.</p>

<p>I even fire speed-lights with the Profoto AIR receiver, or Skyport, or ect., ect. Depends on which dominate lighting system I may be using in conjunction with a supplementary non-propritary light. I'm content that my Profoto and Hensel are all compatible with AIR including levels controls of the Hensel Porty, Expert monos, and Nova packs ... allowing a mix and match at will ... all fully controlled by the on-camera Profoto AIR transceiver. </p>

<p>I said "most" light modifiers can be used on most any strobe head ... not all. Sounds like that is a disadvantage of PCB mods. I wouldn't know.</p>

<p>Specifically, the wonderful Rotolux Deep Octas (or any other EL Modifier) mounts directly on Elinchrom and Profoto heads (using the EL to Profoto adapter). However, because of the unique design of the Rotolux's quick release speed-ring, and the fact that Elinchrom riveted the head attachment insert ring to the quick release speed ring rather than use thumb screws, we can't replace the attachment ring insert with another like can be done with some other speed-rings.</p>

<p><strong>However, when there is a need like yours ... someone always figures it out ... enter the Kacey/Eli Adapter:</strong> http://www.kaceyenterprises.com/?page_id=679<br>

<em>"We can also mate our adapter with virtually any brand studio strobe insert to make Elinchrom modifiers mountable to the brand of strobes you are currently using." </em></p>

<p>While there, check out their Mola shaped beauty dish that's made of plastic that'll blow away the PCB one ... ideal for working with a mobile boom arm: http://www.kaceyenterprises.com/?page_id=461 ... even a Mola monster 45" BD: http://www.kaceyenterprises.com/?page_id=918</p>

<p>Sorry, can't help you with putting PCB modifiers on other strobes, I know zero about them ... and probably never will. Maybe the Kacey folks can help?</p>

<p>-Marc<br>

<em> </em></p>

[richardsperry]

<p>I am worried about that French woman who is not changing her clothes.</p>

<p>She must smell bad by the end of the week. No wonder they invented perfume.</p>

<p>5 outfits makes much better practical and hygenic sense.</p>

<p>OBTW, the notion that if one buys ABs that that is lost money, never to be seen again, is facile. Obviously those posters have not seen what the resale of AB lights are used. Practically new pricing. I can't think of any other product which depreciates less, well one product but it's not legal to sell. A beginner can buy AB stuff, use it to stop being a beginner, sell for almost new price, then buy the 2K lights all you pros have at that time.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>Just curious, why would anyone pay practically new prices for anything used? Especially relatively inexpensive lighting gear. That usually only happens when the new stuff isn't available to buy for a long time.</p>

<p>In reality, selling ANY used lighting gear isn't easy ... packing, shipping and insuring stuff this big and heavy is expensive no matter who made it.</p>

[richardsperry]

I don't know why. Beats me.

 

Just look at the completed sale prices of Buff products on eBay, if you don't believe me.

 

I don't know what's hard about selling used. Boxes are free, buyers pay shipping. And any Ebayer has boxes full of

packing in the garage. So that leaves tape as the only real shipping expense. EBay takes a 9% cut, Paypal takes 3%. but

that's still a lot lower than a consignment fee of 50% at a camera store. 10% depreciation and 12% off that? I can justify

that loss easily, that's a weekly rental rate.

 

Maybe buyers recognize a quality product from a company that provides excellent affordable starter gear and customer

service. Maybe because it is relatively inexpensive gear. A person can buy 5 Buff ringlights for the price of the Profoto.

And not all photographers who want studio lighting are trust fund babies or pros with someone else paying the bill.

 

Whatever the reason, I will pass on the expensive French woman with BO and a perfume cloud. She probably has hairy

armpits too. Pass. Honestly, your "French" light does not, at all, look 5 times better than John's or Matt's AB light, and

Ralph's speedlight light looks superb.

[richardsperry]

Completed AB listings.

 

 

AB 800 with stand 285 w sh

 

2 AB 400s with stands and umbrellas 490 

 

AB 400 205

 

AB 800 305 w sh

 

AB 400 169

 

ABR 800 386 w sh

 

Those are all close to 90% new pricing. And the completed listings are almost all green for two or three pages. Does the

French stuff hold its value like that?

[fotografz]

<p>What French stuff? </p>

<p>However, you are 100% correct. If you can't see the difference, then it's not worth it.</p>

<p>So, knock yourself out with whatever you prefer using. All any of us here are doing is sharing experiences, and everyone is free to do as they see fit with that information. </p>

<p><em>BTW, my Firefighter father would have chuckled at the notion of me being a trust fund baby ... LOL! </em></p>

<p> </p>

[studio460]

<p>Marc said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><strong>However, when there is a need like yours ... someone always figures it out ... enter the Kacey/Eli Adapter:</strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p><strong></strong>Thanks for researching that, Marc, but I tried contacting Kacey over a year a go with no luck. I also posted several threads here on the subject with no resulting solutions. For the Speedo-to-Eli adapter, the Kacey site states:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>"[speedo-to-Elinchrom] mated inserts are not included . . . We can order in and mate inserts for any brand strobe. Email for details." --Kacey Enterprises website.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Since I apparently also need to order the insert ring to complete the attachment to my Speedotron (or, do I?), I've e-mailed Kacey in the past several times with no response (there is no phone number on the site). Kacey at one time was an active photo.net member, but hasn't authored any posts here for nearly two years. If anyone knows which particular inserts I would need (if, any) to mount the Kacey adapter to a Speedotron Force 10 or Dynalite Uni400 Jr., I would much appreciate it.</p>

<p>Not to beat a dead horse, but my point is, that both the Elinchrom Rotolux and PCB foldable modifier products have a special design which makes for very rapid set-up and tear-down--much faster than with conventional pin-and-speedring systems. If you're looking to benefit from this feature, you kind of have to go with those manufacturers' strobes.</p>

<p>Manufacturers of generic modifiers (Chimera, Westcott, Photoflex, etc.), don't offer a competing design, and certain of their products fall short of their more upscale counterparts. For example, the Photoflex-brand octoboxes, while reasonably priced, are far too shallow, in my opinion. In my view, Elinchrom produces some of the best modifiers on the market, and makes for a compelling reason for choosing Elinchrom over other brands. Considering the available modifiers for any strobe system, I think, is also an essential part of the pre-purchase process.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Marc said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>While there, check out their Mola shaped beauty dish that's made of plastic that'll blow away the PCB one . . . ideal for working with a mobile boom arm . . .</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, I've been lusting over those super-sized, Mola-ish, Kacey beauty dishes for some time now. I bought a brand-new 22" Speedotron dish (which surprisingly, was very reasonably priced) when I first got my Force 10. My used Dynalite already came with an 18" Dynalite dish. Since then, I've become a big BD fan (although, I still need to buy the honeycombs for both--those things are kinda pricey). As long as you're close enough to your subject, BDs are great--they don't catch too much wind, and there's zero set-up time. Used correctly, the super fall-off effect is cool.</p>

[summerleif]

<blockquote>

<p>Am I going to walk out onto the beach and see Brooklyn Decker getting shot for SI with PCB gear? No, not likely. There's a reason for that.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You are correct, but with my suggestion that you investigate alternatives like Bowens lighting, you just might see - "fill in blank" - being photographed at an outdoor location without AC using Bowens strobes with some Bowens "travelpak" battery systems. Surely, many people who make a professional level living from studio photography would consider some Buff products "prosumer" for a variety of reasons, some of which I listed in my first post on this thread.<br /><br />I still don't have the impression though, that I have helped you focus on some of the attributes of lighting gear and support equipment, beyond strobe themselves, that could help you, and that I believe should be the focus of, your planning and decision making. <br /><br />One of the things many others have tried to tell you is that when it comes to equipment other than the strobes themselves, there are a lot of choices, many of them can be quite cost effective, and need not be "vanity" brand products. <br>

For example, as I mentioned previously, I like the Chinese made beauty dish I found in eBay more than my Calumet beauty dish. The eBay beauty dish is even designed with a changeable strobe mount so that with multiple mounts it can be used with any strobe for which a mount is available. The Chinese made eBay beauty dish came with multiple center diffusers, two grid diffusers, and a diffuser sock, all of which make it very versatile. By comparison, the Calumet beauty dish and all its parts are pretty expensive, about four times the cost.<br>

Also, while many beginning photographs latch onto softboxes, hard light is as important as soft light. Most often the tools for hard light aren't made with interchangeable strobe mounts. For example, I use a strobe with a snoot on a boom quite often, but I have never seen snoots that weren't a single piece unit dedicated to a specific strobe/brand mount. I also use tools like narrow dishes with grids a lot, (like the ones at the link):<br>

<a href="http://www.calumetphoto.com/eng/product/calumet_7_17_8cm_deep_reflector_with_grid_set/ce18650">http://www.calumetphoto.com/eng/product/calumet_7_17_8cm_deep_reflector_with_grid_set/ce18650</a><br>

<br />What I am trying to do is provide just a few examples of countless essential tools that go beyond strobes themselves that are needed to produce high quality, high dimension, studio photographs.<br /><br />Another essential tool, overlooked by the inexperienced, but probably no longer a trade secret, is foamcore that can be purchased from any art supply store. Black, matte surface foamcore is really important for use as flags, which I have installed in "zipdisc holders" on stands. White foamcore in various sizes also makes a more subtle/sudbued reflector than commercial, highly reflector silver disc reflectors like Photoflex Multidiscs.<br /><br />I also have 8' x 4' "V flats". Rather than the expensive choices some people recommend, mine are built from pairs of 1/2 inch plywood attached to hinges, and then spray painted black. The bottoms have "feet" made from finish wood, with silicone sliders attached to the bottom so that they can slide around easily. To the standing plywood v-flats, I attached velcro strips, and then mount 1/4 inch 8' x 4' foamcore into them. That way the foamcore can be replaced if necessary, but the underlying structure remains.The big V-flats are used as flags in front of strip banks so that the rim light from the strips doesn't split forward, or create lens flares. This is much more durable and cheaper than that really expensive 1.25" thick 8' x 4' foamcore some people suggest in their books and on web sites.<br /><br />Having stands for large reflectors and flags eliminates wasting a person holding it, which always makes me laugh when I see studio setup shots with an assistant holding a big reflector, wondering how they latched onto such a wasteful, downright idiotic approach. <br /><br />I could on and on and on. However, I hope you will review my first post here, along with this one, and that they help you plan what you may need, which goes way beyond strobes themselves, but to which a decision about strobe units can influence the availability of additional tools required to put together a complete studio.<br /><br />I should also point out that I sort of have "two" studios, my own, and the corporate one that comprises my work place. Even with a corporate budget, a studio equipment investment plan can be intelligent and need not involve over spending on vanity gear.</p>

 

[studio460]

<p>Summer said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I also have 8' x 4' "V flats". Rather than the expensive choices some people recommend, mine are built from pairs of 1/2 inch plywood attached to hinges, and then spray painted black. The bottoms have "feet" made from finish wood, with silicone sliders attached to the bottom so that they can slide around easily.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>An excellent idea, Summer! Thanks for sharing your "construction plans" with us!</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Another essential tool, overlooked by the inexperienced, but probably no longer a trade secret, is foamcore that can be purchased from any art supply store.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, Foamcore is great stuff! It's available in white/white, and white/black. The white/black is more expensive, but also more useful. Throw up four, 4' x 8' sheets of Foamcore, and you have a massive bounce surface!</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>This is much more durable and cheaper than that really expensive 1.25" thick 8' x 4' foamcore some people suggest in their books and on web sites.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Actually, what I think you're referring to is more commonly referred to as "bead board." Foamcore (paper-laminated styrofoam) is much thinner, and is commonly sold in 3/16" sheets. Bead board is simply styrofoam, sold in one-inch thick, 4' x 8' sheets. Both sell for about $20/sheet.</p>

[fotografz]

<p><strong>Ralph,</strong> sorry to hear about the Kacey experience, it seemed the perfect answer to what you need ... and what I'm looking for also : -(</p>

<p>I need to devise a way to mount the 39" EL Deep Oct to my Hensel Porty head ... and if Kacey isn't the answer, then I'll figure out some other way. <em>Where there is a will, there is a way</em>. The key will be finding the Hensel insert and then devising a way to secure it to the Deep Oct's speed-ring even if I have to make it permanent. <em>(As an interim solution, I've sent for a Westcott 45" Halo collapsable (that's similar to the EL Varistar). The Halo got 5 star ratings from 8 reviewers including Pros, and only costs $109, so the risk is low for a temporary solution to light larger groups on location). </em></p>

<p>BTW, I agree with Elinchrom being one of the more innovative maker's of high quality modifiers with a difference you can see ... having built an Elinchrom system some years ago, I found they didn't consistently perform for the work I was doing ... and one of the reasons I selected Profoto for my system swap was that I could keep any EL mod I liked and use it on the Profoto heads. I still use a 7' collapsable EL Octa box, the EL fresnel gobo box, background reflector, snoot, and have added the Varistar soft-box umbrella, plus the 27.5" and 39" Rotalux Deep Octas since then. Great versatility, quality and control of light. (See pic of 27.5" EL Rotalux Deep Octa on Profoto head attached).</p>

<p><em>So, when I secured the Quadra for light duty location work, I was pretty much set for modifiers, at least the smaller ones (BTW,Elinchrom has announced a Lithium battery for the Quadra coming this summer! Smaller, lighter, with double+ the capacity.)</em></p>

<p><strong>All of which goes to your point that considering available modifiers is indeed an essential part of the pre-purchase process. If the selected system broadens the available choices via adaption, all the better. </strong></p>

<p><strong>Summer,</strong> your post is a <strong>strong reminder</strong> of the tradition in studio photography of improvising and inventing solutions ... <em>and should be read repeatedly</em>.</p>

<p>Great lighting grips are the MacGyver's of the photographic world. Many more expensive pre-mades are not really necessary, and often just serve to drain ones pocket book without really gaining anything. For example, Gaffers tape and Foamcore are essential ingredients in any studio IMO. One of the most used tools I have in the studio are Magic Arms which allow the use and pre-positioning of gobos, scrims and flags from existing poles, or stands ... they are like assistants that you pay once and use forever : -)</p>

<p>All the best,</p>

<p>-Marc</p>

<p> </p>

[fotografz]

<p>Oops! here's the snap of the EL 27.5" Rotalux on a mobile Profoto Acute B head</p>

<p>-Marc</p><div></div>

[studio460]

<p>Marc said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>. . . sorry to hear about the Kacey experience, it seemed the perfect answer to what you need . . .</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yeah, me too. Maybe he just gets too many "stupid" e-mails, and can't be bothered to answer each and every one. Or, perhaps I caught him when he was on out of town or something . . . I dunno. Maybe I'll just click the "add to cart" button on his site and figure it out when I get it.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Foamcore holders:</p>

<p>Speaking about Foamcore, I was just looking at some Foamcore holders at Filmtools' site. I happen to own the Matthews-brand Foamcore holders (part no. 209495), but had to apply white paper tape to the backside of it, or else its shiny chromed surface would create unwanted reflections. But, I just noticed the brand-less (I assume, house-brand), "Foamcore/Bead-board Holder" sold by Filmtools, which looks to be much improved. It has a black side, and a white side. Perfect. $34:</p>

<p>http://www.filmtools.com/foamcorandbe.html</p>

<p>By the way, the Matthews' "Quaker" clamp (part no. 429042), also known as a "Platypus," is very handy for holding bead board and Matthboards (reflectors).</p>

<p>http://www.filmtools.com/quclms42.html</p>

[stevenseelig]

<p>I just picked up two Einstein 640 that I will control with the PowerMC2 and Pocketwizards MiniTT1/AC3 combinations, along with the Vagabond batteries for pretty the same reasons you have. I am actually going to test drive them this weekend as a studio session and see how it goes. I did some testing yesterday, and it looks pretty reasonable at this point.</p>

[rob_h5]

<p>What French stuff?</p>

<p>Whatever the reason, I will pass on the expensive French woman with BO and a perfume <a id="itxthook5" href="00a7GP?start=50" rel="nofollow">cloud</a>. She probably has hairy armpits too. Pass. Honestly, your "French" light does not, at all, look 5 times better than John's or Matt's AB light, and Ralph's speedlight light looks superb.</p>

<p>Marc, Richard was speaking "metaphorically" referring to "French lights" or European-made-studio-lights which he obviously has a grudge against such as Elinchrom, Profoto, Bowens, Balcar, Hensel...ect<br>

Btw Marc great photo of the Elinchrom Rotalux softbox! I want to use Elinchrom Rotalux softbox and stripbox on Bowens pack head studio lights but as Ralph points out there are not many speedring adapters available for many lights outside Elinchrom / Profoto studio lights.<br>

Ralph please keep me updated on Kacey's response to your email we are both in the same boat. I use different lights but if they can help you they may be able to help me with the Elinchrom speedring.</p>

<p>Richard- you may want to buy the French lady a bottle of French wine...the French are genius.. besides inventing a number photographic realated items (Angenieux lenses) they also invented the Balcar studio lights and the Balcar mount on your Alien Bees! ;)</p>

 

[rob_h5]

 

<blockquote>

<p>What French stuff?<br>

Whatever the reason, I will pass on the expensive French woman with BO and a perfume <a id="itxthook5" href="00a7GP?start=50" rel="nofollow">cloud</a>. She probably has hairy armpits too. Pass. Honestly, your "French" light does not, at all, look 5 times better than John's or Matt's AB light, and Ralph's speedlight light looks superb.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Marc, Richard was speaking "metaphorically" referring to "French lights" or European-made-studio-lights which he obviously has a grudge against such as Elinchrom, Profoto, Bowens, Balcar, Hensel...ect<br />Btw Marc great photo of the Elinchrom Rotalux softbox! I want to use Elinchrom Rotalux softbox and stripbox on Bowens pack head studio lights but as Ralph points out there are not many speedring adapters available for many lights outside Elinchrom / Profoto studio lights.<br />Ralph please keep me updated on Kacey's response to your email we are both in the same boat. I use different lights but if they can help you they may be able to help me with the Elinchrom speedring.</p>

<p>Richard- you may want to buy the French lady a bottle of French wine...the French are genius.. besides inventing a number photographic realated items (Angenieux lenses) they also invented the Balcar studio lights and the Balcar mount on your Alien Bees! ;)</p>

 

 

[Matt Laur]

<p>I don't perceive Richard as having a "grudge" against those brands. Rather he's making a simple cost basis comparison, and finds that spending several times more isn't always the most sensible approach. There are just too many variables here for it to be simple to nail that down.<br /><br />If we <em>were</em> talking Alien Bees vs. some of those others, then the conversation would have been much simpler, given the OP's interest in making a solid purchase for his stated use. But we're not. The product line in question (the Einstein) is something that brings a <em>lot</em> more to the table than those simple entry-level products, and that's why it's harder to easily dismiss them from the discussion, relative to their 5x more expensive European counterparts.</p>

[fotografz]

<p><strong>Matt</strong>, I do not think anyone is really "dismissing" anything here ... people can use what they want, and if they are happy campers, who's to argue with that? There are however two sides of the coin that should be presented for anyone to consider. </p>

<p>Regarding 5 times more, and all that, it is not unusual for incremental gain in photography gear to be disproportionate in pricing. Some people think a Canon $2,500 5DMK-II IQ is close enough to a $25,000 Medium Format digital camera ... which is 10X as much. Besides, the Profoto Acute B 600 AIR with Acute B head and umbrella reflector is 2.8X as much as an Einstein, receiver and Vagabond, not 5X. Since I use that sort of light on the end of a mobile boom arm where even ounces make a difference, the lighter head is prefered. Depends on matching gear to use.</p>

<p><strong>Rob H:</strong> FYI, I e-mailed Kacey Enterprises and Jerry Kacey responded with-in an hour with all the information I needed, and pricing ... I ordered 2 Kacey/ELI adapters with Hensel inserts. So now I can use the Rotolux Octas and all my other Elinchrom modifiers on every light I own ... Hensel, Profoto, and Elinchrom.</p>

<p>All the best,</p>

<p>-Marc </p>

[jason_williams14]

<p>@ Summer. I took in more of your post than you realized. I probably didn't make myself clear in the beginning that I am already set up fairly well with a lot of gear. Lots and lots of formcore, reflectors, flags, snoots, pretty seamless backgrounds, stands, and speedlite size modifers. I'm here because I'm upping my lighting and choosing a light system seemed like the first order of business. Larger modifers seemed like my second thing to look at. I did cut and paste your reply to my note page. It contained A LOT of useful information. Thank you for that and for the time you took to reply to my questions. I'm looking forward to reading more of your posts.<br>

@ Everyone. In no way at all did I mean to disparage PBC equipment. I merely was commenting on observations and more or less, thinking out loud. Quite the opposite in fact, a lot of their equipment is good enough to use on that Barbados beach...they don't and it makes me curious as to why. Matt is right, if Buff did not make his equipment such a value for the money, this would have been a lot easier endeavour.<br>

I'm not into "vanity" gear nor am I name conscious. I am however very much quality conscious. Sometimes those vanity outfits got where they are by providing a superior product, not just great marketing. That is where I was coming from.<br>

Also, I do not buy Chinese gear. A lot of people do, and that is their choice and totally up to them. At the risk of being political here... my family sacrificed a lot in Korea, I do not feel that the Chinese are any particular friends of ours, a lot of their gear is blatant patent rip-offs and borderline piracy, and I strongly feel that sooner or later the two biggest kids on the block always end up in a fight. I worry my boys will be fighting a Chinese war when they are grown. I'm 11th generation American. I have no interest in supporting the Chinese economy, I buy American gear whenever it is a viable option, and European gear is my second choice. Not that my feelings on this are anyone's business on here, but I just don't want to be tagged as a vanity person because I don't buy Chinese rip-offs, that's not fair.</p>

 

[jason_williams14]

<p>@ Steven Congrats on making your decision. :) You're ahead of me... I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts after you test them out. Here's wishing you some great spring weather for Saturday. :)</p>

[studio460]

<p>Marc said:</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>FYI, I e-mailed Kacey Enterprises and Jerry Kacey responded with-in an hour with all the information I needed, and pricing . . . I ordered 2 Kacey/ELI adapters with Hensel inserts . . .</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's great to know! Let us know how they work out. I'll be contacting Kacey soon myself.</p>