Which 5D MkII focus option will benefit me most?

[zigzag]

<p>I have a 5D MkII and a 70-200mm f/4L (non IS) and I shoot OCF, usually using a 1/160s sync speed as 1/200s can sometimes show shutter black lines on the 5DII. I shoot people, e.g. :<br>

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/7010732245_d03506bd47_z.jpg<br>

I have my focusing set to auto, tied to the '*' button to focus on request. I try to use the outer focus points to attain focus and then recompose or sometimes the centre point only, focus and recompose. I am of the opinion that the outer focus points, even though they beep to say they attained focus don't really seem to do the job (I know they are not cross point sensors.) I want reliable focus on the eyes, maybe in low light. <br>

Which of these options would give me most 'bang for the buck' (but may cost me money) in the short term:<br>

a. Concentrate on steady holding technique, a 1/160s sync for a 200mm lens doesn't quite meet the criteria of 1/focal length for a 'steady' shot with a non IS lens. This is significant when balancing ambient with flash light.<br>

b. Get the 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens (up to 4 stops of steadiness for me but not the subject).<br>

c. Get the 5DMkIII which has all those extra cross point sensors but the same sync speed.<br>

i.e. how far do you think that slowing down, not breathing and making sure I am still will help me or am I just technology limited by the incorrect focus? <br>

I have been thinking of getting the IS lens but could I just end up with the same issue (but own a very nice new lens)?<br>

How would you go about solving the reliable off-centre focus issue?</p>

[leo_shafranovich]

<p>If you always use OCF, the shutter speed or holding technique is a moot point.Yes spending $3500 is a great idea, but in case you can't afford 5d_M3 and yes 70-200 M2 is a great but very heavy lens ( did I mention expensive?) Your camera is notorious for crappy focus, (which is a good case for 5d_M3), made even worse by low light or slow lens you mentioned. In the end the most reliable and highest quality will be attained by 5d_M3, but getting ST-E2 will help the camera focus tremendously and fire the flash, if they are Canon. However if you want sharpness, especially in the eyes, you will have to focus manually in live view on the eyes, preferrably on the tripod and stop the lens down at least 1 stop from full open, unless you pay $2500 for the above suggested lens. But feel free to spend $3500 and let me know how that works out for you?</p>

[zigzag]

<p>Thanks Leo, I've been using Live View, tripod, manual focus with landscapes but have never thought of using the combination with the more dynamic people. Maybe thats an answer.<br>

<br /> One other combination problem I also think I may be seeing is that using third party wireless triggers for OCF I am not getting second curtain sync and of course this is not moot if balancing flash with ambient?<br>

<br /> So, the most flexible/reliable solution may be to throw money at the problem but you have given me a more economic solution.<br>

Actually, thinking about it further, another improvement could be the ST-E3 and the new wireless flashes - HSS, second curtain, extended range, $$$ (?)</p>

[sravan]

Isn't ST-E2 the wireless flash controller? How does that improve focus accuracy? I thought it needs a flash for focus

accuracy?

[Marcus Ian]

<p>The ST-E2 also has an LED red cross pattern that it blinks during focusing, this projects light upon the subject which the camera sees, so it can more clearly focus in challenging situations. However, the main point of the device is to control wireless ettl. so 3rd party flashes are out for your OCF setup.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Your camera is notorious for crappy focus</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Only because there are crappy photogs, ones who refuse to even <em>consider</em> that their <em>technique</em> may be the problem. I've had my 5D2s for a couple years now, and never found the AF to be 'crappy' It's just a matter of using the tool for what it is built for, and take advantage of the tools that are <em>built in</em> to the camera. These lay people are also the one who complain to no end. </p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>However if you want sharpness, especially in the eyes, you will have to focus manually in live view on the eyes, preferrably on the tripod and stop the lens down at least 1 stop from full open</p>

</blockquote>

<p> I get sharp eyes consistently at f2 (vs. f4+1 stop = f5.6), using a 5D2, no tripod, LV, or MF required. <em>Technique is the answer</em>, NOT $6k worth of new equipment (or $2.5k or $3.5k). On the 70-200/2.8 (the one w/o IS BTW) I can reliably get eyes perfectly sharp handheld <em>@ f2.8</em>.</p>

<p>Okay, the simple answer is (for people - not landscapes) to use one AF point, on one shot AF. I heartily recommend the center AF point, though (assuming enough contrast) side points can be used, though not as precisely. Your enemy is PHYSICS and GEOMETRY (and the plethora of choices that always screw things up if set incorrectly), if you take that into account, you'll be fine. Using an f2.8 vs. f4 70-200 is NOT going to help<em> in any way</em>. </p>

<p> </p>

[zigzag]

Thanks Marcus, I've been trying. I get worse results with the outer focus points. Centre point is better. With the dominant light being flash I should be effectively using flash speed (let's say 1/400 with a hot flash) so physics tells me I should be able to hand hold my 200mm lens without too much problem. I'm using f/4 or more.

 

Maybe I need to practice my technique more - focus, recompose, stay still, softly depress shutter.

 

The ST-E2/3 would allow me to use ETTL,HSS and 2nd curtain sync. I haven't been impressed with the infrared ST-E2 but I understand the new one uses Wi-Fi

 

I'd rather not go out and spend money but there must be a reason for that second generation IS.

[zafar1]

<p>Glen</p>

<p>First of all, Excellent work!</p>

<p>I think you can solve both your focus and flash control problem with very long OCF cords. See this..<br>

http://ocfgear.com/cords-for-canon-ettl/ettl-cord-extra-long/</p>

<p>With this cord, you may also be able to put your flash in HSS mode to help with your camera shake problem. But I think that tripod is a better solution.</p>

<p> </p>